Well that will eliminate the wheel bearings locking up, if the axle is unbolted and the wheels spin. It will either be carrier bearing locked up or something else that they looked at and messed up during install.

Will be very interesting to learn the outcome of this

 

Yes, the plot thickens. The rear end was swapped out initially because it was making a very loud, audible roaring sound when going down the road. I looked at the old ring and pinion that they took out. They were both knife edged.


The brake/hub will turn but it does take some effort to get them to turn and it does make a pretty significant scraping sound when turning them. I don't know if it's the rotors/pads or if it's the bearings. You can't really get them "spinning" so it's hard to tell. I would imagine that is when you'd be able to differentiate between the bearings and the rotor/pads.


I'm at a complete loss. I just can't believe I'm looking at another $3-4K.

 

the rear will not spin like the front does, you are possibly feeling the drag from the brakes.

I would love to see pictures of what happened.... so the original complete rear end was swapped out for this one?

 

No, the entire rear end was not swapped out. I will list exactly what is on my invoice from the work that was done:


WHEEL BEARING - Remove & Replace-F350 Super duty-Full floating axle, rear both, inboard mounted rotor
(Additional time)-F350 Super Duty-w/dual Rear Wheels (Each Side) add


INTEGRAL AXLE ASSEMBLY-Overhaul-(in chassis) Non Locking Axle.
CENTER SUPPORT BEARING-Remove & Replace


CLEAN UP OF PARTS AND REAR END.


R&R CARRIER BEARING-Remove


R&R U JOINT


The parts list includes 1 Axle Housing Cover; 2 Wheel Bearing Cone; 2 Bearing; 2 Wheel Bearing Cone; 2 Wheel Bearing Cup; 2 Wheel Bearing Cup; 2 Wheel Seal-Rear Wheel; 2 Wheel Bearing Cone; 4 Synthetic Oil; 1 Drive Shaft Bearing; 1 Gear and Pinion; 1 U-Joint-At Rear Axle


I don't know why things like wheel bearing cones are listed multiple times and I assume the "4" in front of Synthetic Oil means quarts...


So, for the most part they replaced the ring & pinion, the wheel bearings and the center support bearing. They "R&R"'d the carrier bearing but it just says "remove".

 

Well then, the way I read that is they replaced the bearings and one failed causing your issue Or am I seeing that wrong.

The carrier has to come out to replace the pinion gear and bearings.

 

Are you the original owner of the truck, do you have a teenage boy of driving age at home? LOL

My FIRST thought is abuse at some time. You don't kill a D 80 pulling a 7k 5er.

Bearings locking up...twisted axle and that can often lead to a bent axle or have you ever hit a HARD dip or slammed the diff on a rock which could result in a bent housing.

I am making an effort to rule out poor workmanship.

Like Toy said, you got any pics, especially of the axle shaft, where its twisted.

 

No, no teenage boy of driving age at home


I do not ever recall slamming the differential into a rock or anything like that.


I don't have pics. We can't take pics of the axle because they can't seem to be able to get it out.

 

You never said if the hub looked like it got hot. Any discoloration? Did they pull the tires off yet?

 

Also, with the tires off and the brake caliper removed, see if the hub has some slop in it. The brake caliper still being on there can hide that.

 

I don't know about discoloration or slop (I assume you mean slop of the hub going in and out?) but I can tell you when it happened it sure smelled like something was hot when I crawled underneath the truck. I could not pinpoint where it was coming from, though, as to be honest my attention was really on the pumpkin since I knew that had recently been serviced. I was not even thinking about the hubs at the time of the incident but, again, it was a strong odor and could have been coming from the hub.


I am stopping by the shop again tonight. I'll see if there is any slop or discoloration. We will need to take the brake caliber off. I'm sure it was on because when we spun it I remember hearing what was the usual scraping sound and thinking to myself - is that the rotor/pads or the bearings/axle?

 

The noise could be the brake caliper, the bearings if they are destroyed, the hub could be hitting the emergency brake shoes if the bearings went out. I can PM you my cell number if you would like to talk about this.

 

Ok so I think I'm seeing things more clearly.. The axle is full floating the hub is fine. The axle isn't coming out and a piece didn't come out either...So the axle somehow welded itself or broke inside the diff...I would take it to a shop that has more tools...Are the sure you can bang from one side and there is nothing in the way inside there? How about a massive slide hammer to pull the axle out. Or some kind of puller....
If you get that out then you need a diff and axle not a biggie...Thats what I would do.
I would pull it from its cap....Heck make a plate to bolt onto it weld a shaft to that with an end put a big slide weight and wack it off...Hmmmm...


Dick

 

I wish I could get an eyeball on it for sure. Its a Dana 80 that is a lot of axle by any standards. Cost to rebuild is not pricey by any means and not all that difficult, Dana makes'um that way. The biggest challenge in an axle is setting up the R&P, its not hard by any means, follow the procedure, take you time and its a go. I have done it on D 44/60 in the shop. Good torque wrench and a dial gauge and some gear mud to show your R&P contact print and in about an hr you got it set up.

Please let us know how this unfolds.

 

OP,

Sorry to hear about your troubles. Honestly this whole thing screams to me that they f'd it up during the rebuild. No way in hell should you let them walk back from repairing this under warranty for free!

I assume you got some kind of warranty with it?

You need to hold their feet to the fire on this one.

 

I also agree..Something stinks...D80's are rock solid..