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Drive with differential removed?

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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 06:51 PM
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Drive with differential removed?

I have the rear half of a 92 F-250 that has been converted into a trailer. I am trying to remove excess weight and was wondering if I can unbolt the two brackets inside the diff (axle bearing brackets?), remove the ring gear and carrier from the differential, reinstall the brackets and then close the diff back up. I don't know much about differentials so I don't know what holds the axles in place, any help would be appreciated.

The only down side I can see is I would need a lot more 90w oil to fill the void space, or do I even need oil anymore? Does the diff oil lube the axles?

Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 07:09 PM
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The carrier bearings support the axle ends, so you need the carrier in there. About the only thng you can disgard is the ring gear. But going thru all the hassel for a coupe pounds at best, isn't really worth it.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 07:17 PM
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... and yes, the gear lube is what lubricates the bearings as well.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 08:17 PM
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Full floating axles or semi-floating axles?
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 08:38 PM
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Originally Posted by eakermeld
Full floating axles or semi-floating axles?
How do you tell? I tried to look up the VIN info since I have the pink slip for the original entire truck and of course the codes on the list don't include the codes from my VIN. The axle does have the extended parts protruding through the wheels.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Kookadala
The axle does have the extended parts protruding through the wheels.
That's a good thing. It means you have a full floater.
OK, here's what you do. Pull the axles out of the housing and set aside. Next pull the diff cover, pull the caps, remove the carrier and ring gear and throw it on the scrap heap. Next take a torch to the axles and cut the caps off the shafts and bolt the caps back on the hubs. Then put the diff cover back on and fill with lube. The wheel hub bearings ride on the housing tubes, so in this case, the axles were doing nothing. Leave the pinion in, it keeps the hole plugged and wouldn't reduce weight by a noticeable amount anyway.

On the ones I built, I made covers for the holes where the axles were and a flat diff cover out of 3/16" plate. I wanted to save the axles and the flat diff cover left a smaller space so it took less lube. I also removed the pinion on one cause I wanted to save the gears and welded a plate over that hole.

Gear lube is probably best for the bearings, but I did use some uber-cheap motor oil in one with no ill effects. That choice is up to you.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:37 AM
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You could just pack them with wheel bearing grease.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 02:49 PM
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(Smacks self in forehead) Now why didn't I think of that!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 03:25 PM
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That sounds like a lot of work but I assume it would shave about 100 pounds of weight off the trailer. Can I cut the axles with a chop saw using a grinding disc, or is the steel too hard for that?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 03:30 PM
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Chop saw would work great. You. Could also make a plate to cover the opening and keep the axles useable but I dont think they have much resale value. All you need to do is keep water out if you go the w.b. grease method.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 06:41 PM
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Well that was a lot easier than I thought it was going to be. At first I thought I had to remove the wheels, which is a pain due to the really long lugs that are kinda thrasher, then I was like, Duh!, the whole point of free floaters is the axle is independent of the wheels. I removed the 8 bolts on the axle cap and a few hits with a hammer got the axles out, then I needed a come-a-long to pull the carrier out of the diff and I reinstalled the diff cover.

I already have a gallon of gear oil and I figure the wheel bearings are designed to be in an oil bath, so I will add the gear oil and then add a quart of cheap motor oil through the sensor hole in the top of the diff since the regular fill hole does not come up above the axle tubes.

Thanks for the advise!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:25 PM
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I'd like to have the back half of an F truck same year/axle as mine as a trail/camping trailer thinking I'd be carrying most of the needed spare parts with me. I'd rather rob my trailer and abandon it than be stranded.

But I've read a few threads where people are trying to pull off weight of such a trailer. Are they really that heavy?
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 07:43 PM
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Trying to move the trailer by hand is pretty difficult, so it's definitely heavy. Less weight should help with fuel mileage on the tow vehicle. My F-350 carries a cab-over camper and really never sees any dirt, so I don't have to worry about being stranded. My off road camping rig is my Toyota, so the trailer parts won't help there.

That is a good idea though to have spare parts in the trailer. After grinding through those axles, I doubt you would ever break one. Anyone who has a jeep should put a Ford rear end in, as I have seen way too many Jeeps on the side of the trail with their axles looking like pasta.
 
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