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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 08:21 PM
  #1  
jjlrrw's Avatar
jjlrrw
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Fuel Filter

Getting ready to change my fuel filter for the first time and wonder about different manufactures of filters.

Looking at the filters with the lid integrated because I not sure what I have.

Advanceauto
Purolator F59292 = $40
Drive Works DW-59292 $30
Fram CS8629A $43

Rock Auto
PENTIUS Part # PFB59292 $11
HASTINGS FILTERS Part # FF1114 $24
WIX Part # 33818 $29
ACDELCO Part # GF862

any ideas which one to use or stay away from, I could not find motocraft local. Is there a good place to buy them from?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 08:27 PM
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Glowplugger
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I got mine on recommendation from an experienced member. It's a Luber Finest $20.21 prime shipping

Amazon.com: Luber-finer L4596F Heavy Duty Fuel Filter: Automotive Amazon.com: Luber-finer L4596F Heavy Duty Fuel Filter: Automotive





Great thing about it is it comes with a cap. Just pull out the old beat up one and boom you're done.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 10:19 PM
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You can never go wrong with a Factory Filter. The lid doesn't have to be replaced. HOEVER, the rubber O-Ring does. There is a Bevel, which needs to face downward towards the Fuel Bowl when reinstalling to prevent leaks.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 11:24 PM
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Pics of OE cap and filter below, pics flagrantly stolen from RiffRaff by me today, so sue me.

I prefer the OE separate cap and filter set up, just replacing the filter is about $20 everywhere and it's a good filter. What to avoid is filters without a water barrier, the white part in the pic. Also that Luber-Finer has a nice size water filter. IMHO it's ok to run a integral filter and cap, as long as you carry a cap in case you can only get the OE filter cartridge on the road. The caps on the integral filters I've seen are flimsy and tend to get destroyed on removal, but it's disposable anyway.

Be sure to clean the grunge off bottom of the bowl. If that or water fills the bottom it can short the fuel heater, which blows a fuse and turns off the truck.




 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 05:58 AM
  #5  
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On mine that OEM cap busted all to pieces too, thats why the old timer recommended the Luber.
The original cap had to be banged off with a screwdriver to get it to let go. Pulled it up and looked like a baby with diarrhea lived in my fuel line. Swapped it out, spanked the baby, and he's running like a big dog now

Of course, YMMV (Your mileage may vary) but my truck was worked hard and sold cheap when the glow plugs went bad, nearest I can figure.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 06:57 AM
  #6  
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i use the NAPA gold filter with cap. don't know the part # though.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by whitetmw
You can never go wrong with a Factory Filter. The lid doesn't have to be replaced. HOEVER, the rubber O-Ring does. There is a Bevel, which needs to face downward towards the Fuel Bowl when reinstalling to prevent leaks.
Here is the thing with OEM, you know the Standpipe is depressed all the way. While the problem is not "as likely" with the 7.3, the 6.0 are notorious for having issues with the standpipes not being depressed.

Hence: You can never go wrong with a Factory Filter
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 10:13 AM
  #8  
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One other thing about OEM - it has a water barrier. Many of the aftermarket units do not - and the expensive injectors are very particular about the quality of filtration. I don't risk it with my $2800 set of stage IIs.
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 05:47 PM
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I went with the Wix when I had it swapped last week. Picked one up on Amazon for <$25
 
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Old Mar 21, 2015 | 06:02 PM
  #10  
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Purolator, continuing towards supporting jobs in USA (made in USA).
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 11:04 AM
  #11  
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WIX filter here since day one...7/10
 
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Old Mar 22, 2015 | 12:34 PM
  #12  
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I'm with Glowplugger,


I have run the Luberfiner for many years. Comes complete with cap, orings and water barrier.


Fits comfortably in the glove box as a spare. I throw a pair of latex gloves in the box and carry a 1/2 drive ratchet as well.


Painless on the side of the road fix.


I buy a lot of 3 at a shot when I use up my spare and don't have to look back for years.


Denny
 
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Old Mar 23, 2015 | 10:27 PM
  #13  
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I have only used baldwin, motorcraft and racor,

Part numbers
Baldwin PF7688 PF7698
Racor R81 or 31728
 
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Old Mar 24, 2015 | 08:51 AM
  #14  
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Just be sure to lube the housing gasket with some diesel before cranking the lid down, or else expect some seepage around the lid, not matter how tight you get it....ask me how I know ;-)

I went with the Motorcraft from RiffRaff.
 
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Old Mar 26, 2015 | 01:04 AM
  #15  
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Baldwin.

Hecho in U.S.A. in Kearney, Nebraska!

Made by Nebraskans, in the U.S.A.!

Pop
 
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