Thanks ND Parts on hand #'s are probably different by now. This is old, but good info just the same.

1973/97 F250 rear of rear spring bracket-frame mounted / Rear shackle & bushing kit
The rear spring bracket (hanger) is available from Ford.
This is the bracket that is riveted to the frame rail (rear of rear spring), is notorious for rusting out.
EOTZ5775C ..Rear Spring Bracket / EOTZ-5775-C replaced: D8TZ-5775-B & D3TZ-5775-C.
MSRP: $71.34 / FTEpartsguy.com price: $54.79
Application: 1973/97 F250 2WD / 1977 (after serial # Y20,001), 1978/97 F250 4WD.
After serial # Y20,001: This is the cut-off serial number for High Boys. This bracket is not correct for High Boys.
This same rear spring bracket also fits some F150's & F350's.
EOTZ = Ford updates 10's of 1000's of part numbers every year. This is a typical example.
D3TZ5630F .. Rear Spring-Rear Shackle Bracket & Bushing Kit / Obsolete.
Application: 1973/79 F250 2WD / 1977 (after serial # Y20,001) 1978/79 F250 4WD.
Green Sales 1-800-543-4959 Dennis Carpenter has ONE 1-704-786-8139

D3TZ5776B .. Rear Spring-Rear Shackle Bracket / Obsolete
This is just the shackle bracket only, it does not include the spring hanger or bushings.
Same application as the shackle bracket & bushing kit.
Collectors Auto Supply in Oroville WA has 276 (that's right, 276) 1-800-414-4462
Green Sales 1-800-543-4959

Part number sources:
1973/79; 1980/89; 1990/2002 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalogs.
1991 Ford O-S-I (Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange) Catalog.
Some (most) dealer parts personnel are clueless, because when they look the number up in the 1973/79 truck parts catalog, it shows D8TZ5775B.
When they type that number into the system, it comes up empty.
What they are unaware of is, Ford updated D8TZ5775B in 1980 to EOTZ5775C.
This is a good part number: Guaranteed.
All your local dealer has to do is look up D8TZ5775B in their Obsolete-Supercede-Interchange Catalog (as I did)...

1st pic is PO installed front blocks FAIL. 2nd to last pic was a "do I need a drop pitman arm or not angle ck", but of course I do....Shop around you can find them and the adjustable link cheaper. Jegs and Summit Racing both sale Skyjacker stuff, same for the steel braided brake lines.....Amazon has stuff too. This was a Rough Country 4" on blue.

If you have front and rear sway bars you can get longer drop links from Skyjacker also, I just left the front off for now on blue.

 

Wow, seeing those front blocks that used to be on your truck from the PO made me cringe

But yeah, I think I'll be ok. My buddies grandfather has a super nice garage with a lift that he'll let us use. I am very thankful for that, otherwise I'd have to try to do it in a driveway.. sketchy.

I'm going to be using all new everything. I'm just going to kill a few birds with one stone while we're tearing into it. All new bushings, hangers & hardware. I'll also probably be doing a couple other random things that weekend like body mount bushings all around and an in depth brake job.

Thank you for the pictures. Your red truck looks GREAT!

 

Thanks yea ol red is a work in progress....I am stalled with the interior overhaul.

But thanks to a fellow FTE member "earthquake68" he saved the day with the awesome outside overhaul paint and body work.

A interior lift makes for a nice safe set up to work in. And good thinking on covering it all since you are that into it, be careful it can snow ball quickly.

Take alot of pics and do a build thread for others to follow.

 

I will do that, I'm sure there will be some other guys in the future who'd like all of their questions answered and a step by step walk-through with lots of pictures on the skyjacker 6". I thank you once again for your help. I appreciate it

 

Just passing along the advice and motivation that you can do it! And the proof is always in the pics.

I have along way to go with ol red and am trying to stay motivated myself....it a long hard road at times, but worth it in the end.

Like when you walk out into a parking lot and "go, wow look at that truck, oh yea its mine".

 

Right on. It's gonna be a long road getting my trucks where I want them, but you couldn't have said it better - it'll all be worth it in the end. Motivation is hard at times especially when funds and time are short. Guess it's all part of the ride!

 

there is nothing wrong with those 2in blocks in the front if, there put in correct. (im gonna here it now) LOL. Im running 2in in the front now, weve never gone over that,id bet any body anything they will NEVER come out. We drill the block all the way threw and run a new center pin threw the block and spring together, years ago when every one around here had 4x4's (70' & 80's) we all had either 40's or 44in mudders and groung hawg's nobody ever had an issue. We all drank a lot when muddin and hill climbing, drove over car's,went to silver lake sand dunes again,no problems at all.

 

I'm sure you probably did get away with it for a little while anyway - but for peace of mind I'm definitely going with an all around pure spring lift

 

little while? FOR YEARS. And yes,it is a GOOD thing to do the springs if money is there.

 

Glad it worked for you but I'd never try it

 

I actually drove that truck on pavement with them for a while. I had way to many other projects on deck, but it was always on my mind and bothered me.

The PO installed then because the worn out HB springs let the front pumpkin hit the swapped in 460 that they left the front sump pan on......see where I am going with this?

I finally got the 4" Rough Country lift put on and feel much safer power sliding it around town now........Jk Lol

This is a front suspention-block/what the heck ever/rear block tube goffy design fail we are trying to avoid.

 

Staring at those pictures in disbelief.. what the..