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OSS HELP - How do you Diagnose Correctly

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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 12:11 PM
  #16  
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Bringing this thread back from the dead! I have still have not resolved the problem associated with the P0720 code.

What I have done so far:

1. Tested sensor and confirmed it was working.
2. Replaced sensor pigtail.
3. Checked signal return wire and signal feed wire. Both wires have continuity from sensor pigtail to PCM connector.
4. Replaced PCM. Found a used one at a good price and wanted to rule it out.

I still haven't checked the tone ring on the tailshaft. What is the best way to check it? I am assuming it can be done without dropping the tranny. Is the tone ring a common problem? It seems like a metal tone ring would not break very easily. Is there anything I am missing????

I AM ABOUT TO SET FIRE TO THIS TRUCK!!! BEYOND OVER IT.

Any Help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 01:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by zbussey
1. Tested sensor and confirmed it was working.
How did you test this?
Originally Posted by zbussey
2. Replaced sensor pigtail.
Not a bad thing to do, but was there a reason? Were the pins corroded?
Originally Posted by zbussey
3. Checked signal return wire and signal feed wire. Both wires have continuity from sensor pigtail to PCM connector.
How about continuity to ground or power? If either wire has a short to power or ground it will still have continuity between the connectors, but it will not transmit the signal.
Originally Posted by zbussey
4. Replaced PCM. Found a used one at a good price and wanted to rule it out.
That's really hunting for a solution. A PCM failure is always possible, but it is really, really rare.

Originally Posted by zbussey
I still haven't checked the tone ring on the tailshaft. What is the best way to check it? I am assuming it can be done without dropping the tranny. Is the tone ring a common problem? It seems like a metal tone ring would not break very easily.
I've never seen one fail. You can remove the extension housing on the rear of the trans without dropping the trans. This will expose the tone wheel.

Originally Posted by zbussey
Is there anything I am missing????
When checking the continuity of the wiring you didn't stick a probe into the end of the connectors that makes the connection, did you? This will open the pins and cause a bad connection where there wasn't one before.

The only other thing I can think of is that there are different length sensors. If you have the wrong one the sensor isn't going to read. The air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel has to be correct.
 
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Old Sep 25, 2015 | 10:25 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
How did you test this?

- Pulled and tested the OSS sensor on the rear tail shaft of the tranny. Waved pliers in front of the sensor, with my meter attached and ensured the magnetic properties of the sensor were working properly. Ohmed the sensor out and it was within range at 1.2. Concluded sensor is good.

Not a bad thing to do, but was there a reason? Were the pins corroded?

- Pins were not corroded. One of the tabs on the pigtail was missing. Thought maybe the pigtail might have been wiggling loose and wasn't seated properly to the sensor when driving and bouncing around.

How about continuity to ground or power? If either wire has a short to power or ground it will still have continuity between the connectors, but it will not transmit the signal.

- I didn't check that. Would I just need to find the main power and ground wires to the PCM?

That's really hunting for a solution. A PCM failure is always possible, but it is really, really rare.

- I was so over it, I just decided to give it a try. It was only $100 and I got a newer PCM with better factory programming.

I've never seen one fail. You can remove the extension housing on the rear of the trans without dropping the trans. This will expose the tone wheel.

- I guess this will be a last resort. I have a hard time believing this is the problem.

When checking the continuity of the wiring you didn't stick a probe into the end of the connectors that makes the connection, did you? This will open the pins and cause a bad connection where there wasn't one before.

- No, I didn't I probed from the backside.

The only other thing I can think of is that there are different length sensors. If you have the wrong one the sensor isn't going to read. The air gap between the sensor and the tone wheel has to be correct.

- How would I check that? Pull the sensor and bring it with me to the dealer to compare their sensor to mine?
The problem initially came for a couple days. Disappeared for a month and then came back permanently. Leads me to believe a wire somewhere. Are there specific ground locations on the truck that are more prone to cause the OSS to not ground out?

Thanks Again for all the help.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 06:21 PM
  #19  
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Mark,

I have tested the sensor return wire from the OSS sensor to power, and to ground. I have no resistance to power, but I have 1140 ohms between the wire and ground. Does this sound normal, or am I looking at a short to ground?

Steve S.
To many to list.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 08:45 PM
  #20  
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If you had the harness unplugged at both ends that indicates both a short to power and short to ground. If you had it plugged in at one or both ends, the reading is meaningless.

It should have infinite resistance to power and to ground, otherwise known as an open circuit.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2015 | 09:38 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
If you had the harness unplugged at both ends that indicates both a short to power and short to ground. If you had it plugged in at one or both ends, the reading is meaningless.

It should have infinite resistance to power and to ground, otherwise known as an open circuit.
Ok, I disconnected the sensor and tried again. Both show open circuits when connecting the ohm meter between the sensor wire and ground, and power.

Steve S.
To many to list.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2015 | 05:47 PM
  #22  
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There is another sensor in the differential called VCC. It's at the top of the case, mine went bad and cruise failed. Replaced that and no more problems, not sure if that would effect your situation, just might take a look at it. HTH's Lee
 
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Old Apr 15, 2020 | 11:41 PM
  #23  
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Sorry to bring this back from the dead but has anyone fixed this? I have has this problem 5 months ago, tried to diagnose it 3 moths ago and blew the trans trying to figure it out. Well long story short. I put a rebuild in and I'm getting the exact same problems to night. Haven't even drove it. It's just on jack stands right now.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2024 | 10:50 PM
  #24  
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Alternator was my issue

Originally Posted by jamiefrenzel
Sorry to bring this back from the dead but has anyone fixed this? I have has this problem 5 months ago, tried to diagnose it 3 moths ago and blew the trans trying to figure it out. Well long story short. I put a rebuild in and I'm getting the exact same problems to night. Haven't even drove it. It's just on jack stands right now.
this was also happening to me. As crazy as it sounds, it was actually my alternator. Took the truck up to AutoZone and test showed the alternator was bad. I never noticed it, but when replacing it, the alternator was extremely hot. Best I can tell, the alternator wasn’t holding a consistent power and had the OSS acting up. Fingers crossed but so far no issues and trans is back shifting smoothly again.
 
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