2002 f-150 4.6 4x4 129000 so my truck seems like it has the dreaded torque converter studder but it also makes a rubbing/grinding noise when it's doing it and it doesn't go away when I tap the brake so need some help is my tranny bad or torque converter bad all of the above or none of the above....doesn't feel like a misfire already had a bad coil pack so I'm familiar with the misfire...please help

 

Respectfully we don't work with crystal ***** to offer you a positive answer.
These transmissions are not normally known for shudder but anything is possible.
At what point in speed, shifting etc. does this happen?
It could still be a faulty coil under the right conditions that won't set a code or CEL.
The noise is a hint but where is it and under what conditions? it could be the TC rubbing the outer housing, the Torrington bearing broken up, the drive shaft etc.
Have you been towing very heavy loads?
You need to do more to narrow all this down.
Good luck.

 

No towing or heavy loads usually it happens when I'm starting from a stop it shutters then grinds and feels like it shifts but could just be what ever is grinding is releasing im pretty sure it's not a coil....my thought is drive train so I'm changing tranny fluid and greasing the slip yoke and checking drive shaft...what is the Torrington bearing and where is it located? Also I may check the rear diff while I'm under it

 

Behind the torque converter are flat roller bearings call Torringtons.
If the converter balloons (expands) from excessive loading, these bearings can break up from the excessive pressure put on them.
The pieces can leave the area and circulate to other parts of the transmission.
If you find a lot of fine shinny metal partials in the trans fluid it may be a clue to what has happened.
If this would be the case, the trans needs a complete disassembly and careful cleaning and full rebuild and the cooler 'hot' back flushed to remove all the particles caught in the cooler.
Hopefully this has not happened.
Good luck.

 

I posted this elsewhere but I hope it helps here. It saved me from having to choose between coil replacements without a code, or a torque converter job, also without a code.
Shudder Fixed -came from bad gas cap, not bad coil <hr style="color:#D1D1E1; background-color:#D1D1E1" size="1"> I bought my '99 f150 with 110K on it a few months ago. It shuddered after heated up at highway speed when I would brake and slow way down for an exit or turn, and then try to resume speed, I'd get that rumble strip shudder for a while. No codes came up. My mechanic thought it might be the transmission, after a transmission service, the tranny guy said it seemed like misfiring/ probably bad coil. It came especially around 1500 rpm.
I had not liked the way the gas cap seemed to fit & could see it was not original. For $12 on eBay, I got a FORD cap specified for the '99 f150.
Two tanks of gas later--500 miles--and no more shudder.
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You be sure to let us know if your shudder comes back.
Reason is the gas tank cap would have no technical relationship to an engine shudder condition without a code set.
The tank works under pressure, it tested by the computer in a rather complex set of tests and would set a code for any failure.
If you were to do a clear or a power down of the computer, diagnostics are entered for the fill set of tests.
The fuel tank and EVAP take the longest to run over several drive cycles to complete the tests and also depends on how full the tank is.
*
A faulty coil could be seen with a Scanner looking at the cylinder miss fire monitors.
A coil with a certain type of fault namely shorted turns usually does not set a code or a CEL but is registered in the monitor memory for that cylinder.
This type coil fault will result in a shudder, bucking type misfires in Over Drive at light throttle without a code set because it's not considered a hard permanent fault but comes and goes with drive conditions..
Good luck.

 

Thanks for your info. I've waited to put some mileage on to give you a meaningful response.
I've now gone over 3500 miles without the shudder returning. I've been worried for a couple of days after having an oil& lube at JIFFYLUBE when the engine seemed rough but I just discovered that Mr. Jiffy had not re-clamped the air intake unit . It was disconnected with the clamp closed on one half. Don't know how much that would cause rough running but I've just gotten the FORD WORKSHOP MANUAL for my '99 F150 and it stresses the importance of that intake line being correctly clamped but doesn't specify what happens when it isn't.
But I'm curious about your mention that a short would be "registered in the monitor memory for that cylinder" even tho no regular code would show. I sometimes sense that the engine is not running consistently smooth, especially after heavy rain, and I've had trouble with water running off the windshield and making its way under the cowl so that some drips over engine areas.( The rubber gasket on the windshield glass is not tight} I came to this because the windshield washer fluid seems to do the same when used and heated washer fluid really stinks up the cabin. My thinking is that if water is making its way over the coil/plugs it could be creating some short and I don't know if the previous owner applied di-electrical grease as I read ought to be done on those.
How would I get someone to check the monitor memory for a history of shorting --"shorted turns"-on particular cylinders?--I don't know how monitor memory works or whether that requires special equipment. Also, would that account for varying gas mileage--from 12 to 16mpg under simliar driving conditions. I sometimes add STP gas treatment or the smiliar product by SEA FOAM and both improve mileage but not consistently.