doing a frame off restoration on my 1966 . present rig is a 2wd but I would like switch over to 4WD. looking for a frame that would fit my body. I am in Massachusetts so something in New England would be great but for the right chassis, I would travel.

 

Can't help with an actual frame. The 2wd has the no-step cab floor while a 4wd has the cab step. Cab mounts are quite different so you'd have to modify the 4wd frame to accept the 2wd body on it or modify the 2wd cab mounts to fit the 4wd frame. The steering is also quite different between the two with the 2wd having the column through the firewall with a rag joint to the steering box while the 4wd will be a solid shaft into the steering box (Gemmer style) going through the floorboards.


It can be done, but if it were me I'd tend to sell the 2wd and buy a 4wd. The time savings would seem worth it to me.


Or do like I have and get a 2wd and a 4wd (or two!)


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Don't quote me on this but I think that the 2wd cab will bolt on to a bump or dent highboy frame - which I happen to have. I think I might be a bit far away though.

 

Oops, I quoted you there. Lol


I do believe you are correct. Possible way to get power brakes and steering, too. Just go newer than 1966. I'd probably jump over 1967. The newer you go the better odds of power stuff prolly.


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Yes it can be done, mine is a f100 body to f100 frame but I did it.. Here's my link to see what your getting into..

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...4x4-frame.html

 

thanks for the replies, much appreciated. is it possible to just swap out the front axles and keep my 3/4 ton 2wd frame?

1972RedNeck - i think i can get your shipped by rail for around $800. would you consider selling yours for $5?

jdeshler, thanks especially for the link to your frame swap. doesn't look too bad.

 

Nah, that might be a might low.

You might be best off going to a '78 or '79 F250 4X4 so you can have integral power steering.

I don't know what year the F100 4X4's went to integral power steering but that is also another option.

Of course if you have the body off the frame as you will, adding a power steering box is easy.

 

I say there's less work integrating an axle than swapping an entire frame.. But no, the body swap was actually pretty painless in my case..

I'm not really finding any information on an axle swap for your truck but maybe you can be the first one to put a good thread up

 

does anyone know the limits of what year frames might work really well with my 1966 f250 body? i see where James used a 1977 frame for his 1964 body. is 1977 the limit on this or can i go a bit further?

 

You can go all the way to a 79.. Maybe someone can correct me but your body should sit directly on a 70's f250-350.. There were significant differences in the 80's frames

I just saw a post today of a guy with just the truck you need.. its a running driving 70's 250 that's been rolled and its in his wrecking yard.. let me find who it was

Hold up! Looks like the 250's ,sure enough, will swap like the f100's with a little Modding to the bed..
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-long-box.html

 

The user Merke says this is how he did his combo.. He has a low amount of posts, not sure if he's around here anymore..

 

I've got a 1964 long box 2wd on a 4wd frame. Not sure the year of the frame but I'm trying to get info on the front leaf springs. All the trucks I've seen have shackles at the front of the spring my truck has what I was told is a "slipper" spring. Was it the early years that had this?

 

GARRISON Power Assist P/S: 1973/75 F100 4WD / 1975 F150 4WD // 1973 F250 4WD / 1974 F250 4WD before serial number T80,001.

BENDIX Power Assist P/S: 1974 F250 4WD from serial number T80,001 / 1975/76 F250 4WD / 1977 F250 4WD before serial number Y20,001.

 

Yes, my two 1966 F250 4x4 frames uses the same "slipper" attachment for the front of the leaf spring. The rear of the front spring uses a captured bushing and the front uses a roller beneath the spring to allow it to slip back and forth to adjust for length as it flexes. Thus the term "slipper" spring. Since most of the movement is in a forward direction it adds to the ox cart effect.


I think it applies to at least 1961-1966 F250 4x4 and 1961-1965 F100 4x4, but maybe other years as well.


You might be able to find a VIN number on the top of the passenger frame rail in the vicinity of the alternator/generator. It's a very light stamping so don't use a file or grinder. Steel wool or a wire brush to get grunge off and then wipe it down. The number should start and end with a * character.


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Negatory.

'65 and '66 leaf sprung front ends only.