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So here's the deal guys I swapped out my engine for a early model 7.3 forged rod motor. when I put it back in started up I had a weird low vibration at idle not from the motor. it felt like it was right under the truck.i drove it around for a while and it started acting up. the converter delayed engagement from a rolling stop and into reverse. so I still drove around and eventually it started getting sloppy in all gears . at first I thought it was a tranny then eventually I felt something let loose and heard Marbles from the torque converter. The fluid never looked burnt or dirty. I have yet to drop the pan to take a look. I bought the truck with a PI stallion and supposedly 4r 100 HD. my theory is that my flex plate was cracked and continuing to drive on it cuased the TC to fail. I say this because there was some run out in the flexplate visible from the inspection cover but I remember it being like that when I got the truck before I swapped the motor and I never had the vibration until I swapped it.
So I'm looking for a little help diagnosing this. What to look for when I drop the pan and pull the tranny.and what to expect from my symptoms.i have read alot on hear and it's led my to my theory.
Anybody with ideas? My scanner doesn't pick up any codes. I don't think it reads those codes. The tranny does have somewhere around 110k on it. But as I said the fluid looks great. Would a cracked flexplate act like this and/or cause a TC to go bad. When I bought the truck the PI stallion was one of the things I thought i wouldn't have to worry about.
Still haven't gotten around to doing anything with the transmission. after reading some post saying that if the fluid is grossly(which its seems to be)over filled when cold and not running... the cause may be a check valve or a leaking pump. I've come to the conclusion that its most likely the front pump got foul up and screwed the tc. Is this a valid theory? Anyone who knows about these things (Mark?) Thanks guys.
I've never seen a cracked flex plate damage a converter, but I can't say it's impossible.
I think it is much more likely that the converter wasn't fully seated and damaged the pump. It's a guess, but it seems to fit the symptoms.
If the fluid is overfilled before starting it, but goes to the normal level when warmed up, that indicates a bad torque converter drainback valve. The only problem that causes is that the trans will usually take 15-20 seconds to engage when first started.
ok so probably not a a cracked flexplate. What you say of a not properly seated torque converter causing the pump th malfunction is probably the most likely scenario being that the last owner installed th pi stallion himself. so when I drop the tranny ill replace the pump and the converter and I should be golden. keeping my fingers crossed keep you posted thanks guys
Still didn't get into it. planning on some better weather this week. so as I was researching on how to change the pump and install the torque converterI ran across a video talking about coaching the torque converter into the flexplate. when I installed the motor I did not do this I just put the bolts through the flexplate And drew it in with them.I'm guessing this would be the cause of my problems.
Local guy 2 wants to build a 4r100hd with red altos,tugger,and Sure cure kit.2900
Racerx 3800 plus shipping
Bts 4500 plus shipping
I think they all come with a billet coverter.
My mods are stage 2 injectors, 38r,intake, tuner
Future mods may include fuel system, hpop, and water meth.
Local guy 2 wants to build a 4r100hd with red altos,tugger,and Sure cure kit.2900
Racerx 3800 plus shipping
Bts 4500 plus shipping
I think they all come with a billet coverter.
My mods are stage 2 injectors, 38r,intake, tuner
Future mods may include fuel system, hpop, and water meth.
Yes I have read about BTS and how they stand behind their product.
But do I need it?
This truck is a daily driver I have plans to put some serious power behind it. Living in the city I beat on her from light to light pretty often. However I really never tow anything. I'm home renovation contractor and the worst thing I would tow would be somewhere around 3000 pounds. Of course you May always run into a good deal on a parts truck I might yank back from Pennsylvania. From what I've read, with the mods I'm looking at, I'll probably fall somewhere between a 450 to 500 horsepower range.
I guess what I'm really looking for is somebody with enough knowledge for me to relay to my local builder. if I can getaway with HD 4r100 parts list tugger kit and a sure cure kit in conjunction will that give me the strength longevity reliability and peace of mind that I seek is the real question
Thank you all for your input
How well do you know your builder? Some talk a good talk but don't always come threw. I believe the HD4r100 are around 3500 if you do the install. Plus you should always replace the oil cooler. 6.0 cooler has a good rep. If you are really going to that much HP, I'd spend the $1000.oo more for the BTS. But that's me. I happen to have John Woods tow master but if I was to do it again, BTS all the way for the money.
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