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The 10.5 is metric only, the vans stuck with Dana axles.
Oops, my bad. I did a search in the '87 - '97 forum on disk brakes and van axles. Most of them did mention that the vans used Dana axles. Thanks 82F100SWB and H311RA151N for catching that.
Oops, my bad. I did a search in the '87 - '97 forum on disk brakes and van axles. Most of them did mention that the vans used Dana axles. Thanks 82F100SWB and H311RA151N for catching that.
And thank you for catching me ramble on in the wrong direction.
Hogtrapper, as Nothing Special stated, a 10.25 would be the most ideal swap in your scenario. If you did get a 10.25 it would be wise to tackle the pinion shaft upgrade before installation.
I have the 10.25 myself in the rear myself. The spline length on the pinion is shorter on the 10.25 than the 10.50. This characteristic is said to make the possibility of bearing failure and leakage more possible because the yoke tends to wobble. Larger tires and towing are said to make failure even more possible.
From my research what is needed to fix this weak link in the 10.25 is to install the yoke and pinion from a 10.50.
10.25 pinion length is 3.25" and the 10.50 is 3.5". The spline length on the 10.25" is 1.25" and on the 10.50 it's 1.75".
There may be other differences between these two axles that I am unaware of. I do know that the pinion is the main difference and the first thing to upgrade.
Thank you H311RA151N I appreciate your input. I appreciate the input from all of you gentlemen.
It would appear the way to go, since I do a lot of towing and run bigger tires, is to install a 10.25 with 10.50 ring gear and pinion. Can anyone else shed any light on other differences between the 10.50 and the 10.25 differentials that hasn't been mentioned so far, springs, brake lines, etc.?
I know this may sound like a stupid question but I'm just trying to learn LOL. Is the 10.25 a rear differential only or is there such a thing as a 10.25 front differential in some 4X4 trucks? If it is a rear only differential and I install a 10.25 in the rear what would you recommend installing in the front?
I appreciate each of you gentlemen sharing your knowledge with me, thank you.
There were long shaft 10.25's in the mid '90' s.
Easier to swap the whole rear than set up R&P lash if you are not experienced.
I'd think a kingpin D60 from an F350 would be the best compliment to the 10.25".
Easier to align, tighter turning radius and better ride than any TTB front end.
Thank you ArdWrknTrk I appreciate your input. How have you been? Swapping out the whole rear end would definitely be better for me because I have never set up R&P lash before. I have completely torn down several rear ends for cleaning out sand etc. but all I had to do is put them back together the way they came apart. I would really like to be able to find a mid 90's 10.25 and a kingpin D60 geared alike so I could just BASICALLY bolt both of them in place. Now the question is, what numbers do I look for on these two differentials so I will know if they are geared alike? Where is Mr. NumbersDummy? LOL. Also can you look at a long shaft 10.25 and tell if it's a long shaft? If you can what do you look for? We have some JKs around here that I have done a little business with but from my experience you better know what you are looking at when they bring it up or you may end up with the wrong part. Thank you gentlemen I really appreciate your input.
I almost forgot to ask, what about the driveshaft/u-joint set up for installing the long shaft 10.25? Would I need to simply go to the parts house and get a different u-joint or will the stock u-joint work? Should I also get the drive shaft out of the donor vehicle and have a new drive shaft built? Thank You
Last edited by Hogtrapper; Mar 20, 2015 at 06:07 PM.
Reason: add text
I'm on mobile so I don't see any sig's, but your shaft should fit.
I would grab the front shaft from the 350 D60 donor as they mount and flex completely different.
Ford has a habit of using U-joints with different cup sizes, so just measure what you need.
I HATE the mobile because I lose the thread unless I quote it.
Look on the 'tag' bolted to any diff cover.
The ratio is the first thing stamped.
Often the first digit is under the bolt head, but if you see .10, .73, or .55 you know its a 4.10, 3.73 or 3.55.
Limited slip will have a letter instead of a point.. i.e. 4L10 is limited slip 4.10 ratio.
^^^^ Thank you sir I didn't know that, I'll have to remember it. I learn something knew every time I get on this great website and communicate with you intelligent, generous gentlemen and I truly appreciate your input.
Is there a way to easily distinguish a long shaft 10.25 from a short shaft 10.25? I guess what I'm asking is, is there an easy way to tell if they are selling me the correct 10.25 as compared to a 10.25 short shaft or a 10.50?
Thank you sir, I think I have a linked saved on my computer that tells me how to decode the BOM.....if I can find out when the long shaft was built I will be in business. Hopefully I won't have to be worried about what the JY is selling me but I like to be knowledgeable when dealing with them.
This is a link to what I believe is a fairly helpful site to help see the difference in the 10.25 long shaft and the 10.25 short shaft. The information in this link says the 10.25 long shaft was manufactured from '93 to '98 for the F250 and F350 trucks.
... The information in this link says the 10.25 long shaft was manufactured from '93 to '98 for the F250 and F350 trucks.
Except (for what it's worth) I'm pretty sure there were no '98 F-250s or F-350s. The old body style ended with the '97 model year, and the first of the new body style Super Duties were '99s.
Saying that, I'm not completely sure that there wasn't a '98 F-250 light duty, sharing sheet metal with the F-150. Ford made that inexplicable blunder in '97, and some time later corrected it, calling the light duty 3/4 ton an F-150 7,700 (or something like that). I think '97 was the only year for the new body style F-250, but I'm not sure of that. But even if there was a '98 F-250 light duty, it would have had a 7 bolt hub, and I doubt it was a 10.25".
That is very interesting and useful NS, thank you sir. It SEEMS, according to this website, that you can identify the 10.25 long shaft by the size of the u-joint yoke. I was just thinking if I could see the BOM on a JY differential and identify the manufacture date I might possibly be able to know if it's a long or a short shaft by the yoke size. If I am still uncertain then I could pull the u-joint yoke and measure the splines BEFORE I buy the differential.
Getting that nut and yoke off -in a JY- is going to be troublesome!
The yoke is definitely beefier on the long splines.
Maybe easier to bring one in to compare.
For all that... you can check just the model year and build date on the door tag if the truck is still together.
That is definitely very true and I would hate to have to attempt doing that and would do a lot of checking numbers before I did that. I am sure I could tell by looking at the u-joint yoke and the numbers but at least if I did have to measure the shaft splines I have an idea about what I looking at LOL.
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