$80 huh? So we would guess around $100 total for the kit, shipping and the work. Seem like a good deal?

 

I doubt you can buy a carb kit and get it shipped both ways for $100. Probably be closer to $200

 

Carb kits should be relatively inexpensive. But I don't know for sure.

 

Can you get me the model number of the carb? Shipping is cheap USPS Flat Rate.. about $15.

 

I'll look through my pictures, I may have it. Otherwise I'd have to pull the carb and look.

 

That should be it at the bottom correct? I think that's what it was.

 

Kits range from $25-40 depending on where you buy them. (That is on-line pricing.) I spent about $42 locally for a holley rebuild kit.

 

Yeah - Dylan I'd say you would spend about $120 with Al. I'll cover you bud.

 

That's not too bad if he can work some magic.. What's this "I'll cover you" business? Unless its in beer, thanks but no thanks

 

Dylan, glad to see you getting motivated to work on TGM again. I know sometimes it is as simple as tripping over a part that gets you going again. Keep the updates coming. Even posting little updates can keep you motivated.

 

Hopefully I can keep the motivation rolling. Right now its hard to keep going, I've got plans to buy my first house so that's taking up a lot of my concentration but soon I hope to do some testing.

 

That's right, I finally got around to doing some work. Last thing that happened was the bronco getting stuck in the front yard.

I had bought 1 new solenoid, it happen to be bad out of the box. Took a while to figure that out. Went and bought a second one, paid a little more for the BWD brand. Same thing! The switch was sticking right away. I was getting upset, and really didn't want to deal with it anymore. Finally I bit the bullet and paid $25 for an Echlin brand solenoid from Napa. I was quite nervous about putting it in.

Today, I picked up the unit and hooked up just the battery cable and the starter cable. Touched the ground to the post and nothing! It wasn't trying to crank! Next I slapped the ignition and signal wires on. Same result, finally added the accessory wires back on and turned the key, it cranked. I felt a huge weight off my shoulders.

This upcoming Wednesday, I have an hour drive to a WA members garage for my monthly meet. I was afraid the bronco wouldn't be ready. The main point of the bronco going is to get started on the hydroboost mod. Now I'm pretty confident I'll make it.

I got the truck started and although it ran pretty bad, it still ran. Did some light tuning and got it straightened out as much as I could. Then I started checking for leaks. Turns out when you buy the right intake gasket, your intake will actually get sealed up. Who knew.

I let it get warmed up and kill anything that happened to crawl into my exhaust(lots of smokey sooty crap.) After warming I got more in depth on tuning, my step dad an I got it where it should be running well. Its got a pretty bad miss but I feel like that's due to the way it was tuned with the intake leak, and the fact that I haven't changed the plugs and wires in over a year.

We timed it and tuned to our ability, and I can't say how happy I am. My baby is finally getting work done.

Pictures.

This is the old(new) solenoid, and how it was wired.


And with the new solenoid


It even starts better now.

I've got a video but it hasn't uploaded just yet.

 

I would put a couple of bolts or screws in the
original solenoid mounting holes to help keep
the mud and water off the road out. At least
that is a problem around here. I am so glad TGM
is alive and doing well.

 

Those parts store solenoids are junk. Most all of them are junk, if they don't work they'll weld themselves together in the crank position. My truck still has it's original fender mounted solenoid, with 233,000 miles on it lol.

 

There is actually an inner fender that fits up there to protect that stuff but I had to remove it. I used a screw and a nut to hold one of the solenoids on in an attempt to get a better grounding to the fender. Made new holes after realizing that I'd have to remove that inner fender every time to change it.

Yeah they were cheap. I doubt my OEM one would have survived. Whatever was in it before was a quality one, it just finally gave out.


In other news, I drove it around today, it drives better than it used too. No vacuum leaks! Its missing still but I haven't even started diagnosing that. I've got a few more prep things and I think it'll be ready for the hour drive on Wednesday!