Cab floor replacement question
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From: Clitherall, MN.
Cab floor replacement question
Finally got some time to work on the 49 cab floor today. I was making a template for the footboard? piece and noticed that the seams where the two meet [floor and foot] are angled up a bit towards the trans opening. I have it laying on it's backside. Put a 4 ft. 1x6 across there and see that it has a 1.5 inch or so rise as I look at it. Can a guy just run that straight across instead of putting the rise in it? I'd take a pic but the kids lost my camera for me. Then there's the stiffening ribs I want to put in. Any ideas on that would be very cool. On top of all that the raised portion of the cab floor where the seat frame bolts to is in sad shape. Guess that will have to go too. Some creative bending will be in order for that. My neighbor has a 8 inch I beam about 3 ft. long I can use to make some of the bends with. Anyways, Thanks for any replies or advice. Remember spring is on the way!!!
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2011
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From: u-rah-rah Wisconsin
Man, I know that no one here is on an unlimited budget, but the repop floors from Northern Classic Truck just seem too reasonable:
Ford Truck Parts and Repair Panels for your classic truck at Northern Classic Trucks
Ford Truck Parts and Repair Panels for your classic truck at Northern Classic Trucks
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From: Clitherall, MN.
Yeah I know. I already have some 16 guage sheet to do it with. Maybe I should just go the repop route, I need the forward cab mounts too. The repops will have the slot already cut out for those. I'll use the sheet metal I have for the toe board/ firewall stuff. I have a piece of maple that I ran a 3/4 cove bit down the middle to make the stiffener ribs with. Wasn't looking forward to all that pounding and bangin' on the sheet goods anyway. Thanks for the reply.
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From: Metro Detroit-MI
I just did the Classic Hualers floor and cab supports in my 51 F1. I did it with the cab on the frame (wayyyyy harder than the usual on the back of the cab)
One thing I did was do one side at a time, be sure that you drill out all of the spot welds
One thing I did was do one side at a time, be sure that you drill out all of the spot welds
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From: Clitherall, MN.
I agree on the one side at a time . I checked LMC and their panels were quite a bit more than Northerns'. The same with the front cab mounts too. Thanks for the tips fellas.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2009
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From: Lincoln CA
I bought from No Limit Engineering.
Came in 5 pieces. Only used the front from the seat mount to the firewall and the center hump. Eliminated the removable Trans hump. The floor now looks like a one piece floor - much like a modern vehicle.
If interested let me know and I can send photos.
Came in 5 pieces. Only used the front from the seat mount to the firewall and the center hump. Eliminated the removable Trans hump. The floor now looks like a one piece floor - much like a modern vehicle.
If interested let me know and I can send photos.
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From: Clitherall, MN.
Some pics would be cool. I haven't done too much of this floor replacement stuff so I am all ears, or eyes in this case. I plan on cutting out a bunch of the known nasty bits and then media blasting the rest to see what else needs fixing.I assume you got the 2 front cab mounts, 2 floor panels and the trans hump as a pkg? I'll have to check their site and see whats up. Thanks for all the info fellas.
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From: Clitherall, MN.
Hey gus, Thanks for the info and pic's. I braced my cab up pretty well with some 3/4 inch square tubing. Had quite a time getting the doors to fit right before I welded the bracing in. Guess I'm lucky to have the donor cab to work on, not to mention the space to do it. Hey Dan , that adhesive stuff, didn't they use that to fix some Windstar front end issues? Pretty strong stuff I hhear. Did you have to buy the double barrel caulking gun? I have one that I use for gluing concrete anchors in with. Not a cheap item to buy but well worth it.Oh well, I just got home from work and I'm starving, I need food. Thanks again .
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From: Clitherall, MN.
Decided to replace the rib in the middle too.
Looking good so far
Found some more rot after blasting a bit
The rust keeps going and going.
Trans cover fits good after a refit of the floor
Drivers side of the cover was toast.
Tadah.
Well I've made some progress sort of. Had the floor all welded together and was wodering how the trans cover was going to fit. 3/8 gap on one side and5/8 on the other. Uggh. Chop chop, grinde grind. weld weld. All is good now. Disregard the junkie back ground . Time to drag it outside and blast the heck out of the rest of it.
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From: Clitherall, MN.
Thanks, I always thought the therapy was supposed to be relaxing. I guess most of it was. A few moments were a bit scary but now my confidence has been boosted a bit. I need to get a few more bags of blast media today. Won't be able to do much today since it's raining finally. I was beginning to think MN. was in the southwest somewhere.
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