I was wondering if you guys could help me out. My 56 f-250 floor is gone I was wondering do I have to weld the new floor panels in place before I take the cab off the frame. Seems like if I take it off it will spring and twist etc.

 

I personally would brace it with 1in. square tubing or something else that would keep it from flexing. my 2cents worth.

 

A lot of guys will tack weld angle iron braces across the door openings and in an x-pattern across the inside of the cab to keep things square while they're doing floor work.

EDIT: Yamagrant beat me to it!

 

I spray WD-40 between my fingers so I can type faster.

 

Thanks Guys I think those are great ideas. Boy I hope i didnt bite off more than i can chew LOL. Where the seat goes that floor panel is ok but from there forward its junk

 

Hey 56,
We replaced our floor this past summer. Hmmm... It's pretty bad without the floor in there - Is there any way to buy the replacement panels & just use the parts you need? If you don't brace it well it takes on new interesting shapes & you get to use these hydraulic jaws of life things to put it back in the right location.

Pictures would help. Mine was bad - especially on the driver's side.

Ben in Austin

 

typical.. I used 14ga on the green truck, and replaced the floor forward of the hump, to the top of the kickboard with one piece.

this on a 55.

they make replacement panels, and like everything else, its time vs money.

Sam

 

It might be a bad assumption to think that your cab is square just because it is still mounted on the frame. Before you brace...measure, measure, measure. No sense in maintaining the geometry as it exists if it is not square.

 

If your doors are not on you might want to check the fit before you weld in the new floors and later find out they dont fit like they should. I wonder how i know this???

 

Hey 56,
Roger & Charlie are both right. The challenge is you take the floor out & start fabricating a new one & the door openings shift just a little bit - then you have fun "adjusting" the cab or doors to get them to fit in the new space.

How do your doors fit now? If they fit fine & line up with the body seams it would be great if you could just repair the existing floor & not try to pull it all out. Good luck over there - if you posted pics you might get better advice as the problem area would be more visible.


Ben in Austin

 

If you are a skilled welder or want to make a show car or just want to fix it like new then certainly the previous methods of bracing are a must. But if your welding skills are questionable, your pockets aren't deep and if you just want to make a driver, first make sure that your body to frame brackets are solid and you door fits are OK. Then you can use layers of fiberglass mat then cloth to make a very strong but functional floor. It won't rust either. I did this to a vehicle that had spent it's life on the Jersey shore and the front floorpan was gone. I sold it after 28 years and never had a problem with doors closing or the body changing shape. It was just a fun driver.

I learned this from a friend that had a large collection of early '30s Ford coupes. He was a fanatic about details but he felt this was an appropriate fix on some vehicles if you were more interested in enjoying the drive than the show. He had both types of vehicles.

My sincere apologies to those of you that find this abhorrent.

 

Apologies accepted Pete...:~)

Here is a photo of my cab after I replaced the front floor sections and rockers. I have made the point in previous posts and will do so again (apologies to those who have read it before)...the cab will flex without support in the floor section but this flex is not a big deal if you measure the cab as you weld in your new panels. Measure the width of the doors and make your gaps accordingly. Measure the diagonals from right to left across the floor and from upper to lower cab corners. With the floor panels removed, the cowl structure will remain rigid...no need to worry about the dash or windshield opening. The rear of the cab will also remain rigid. Cut out your bad panels, trim the edges, and tack in the new ones taking care to measure, measure, measure. Once you are sure that the tack welds are secure and that the cab is square then continue on finishing your welds.
I try to pick out existing seams when I place my new panels but sometimes there are none. The floor panels I used extended up to the cross beam where the front of the seat mounts...that is where I seamed my new panel in place. If you are fairly competant with your welding then this job is very doable. Good luck...

 

petemcl,

I am so with you on the fiberglass. 30 years ago I did a lot of boat work. If you make it really thick and as a plus, you run it up the sides a bit... then use mechanical fasteners like sheet metal screws after it cures, its pretty much permanent. Nice floor mat over the top and you're good to go. I have also made good use of old road signs for the same purpose with about a gallon of thick rustoleum red primer underneath. I am old enough to have seen stuff I did 30 years ago still holding up. Only down side is the judge at Pebble Beach might deduct a few points, but a truck with a fiberglass floor is every bit as fun to drive and enjoy as a period correct one. Of course we're in the minority here.......

 

Thanks GB. This is just an alternative. I look at what CharlieLED has done and just hope that I can do this someday. Meanwhile my goal is to get my truck drivable with a dialed in power train and chassis keeping it as stock as possible. I want to enjoy driving it and not sit in storage for years like some of my previous vehicles. I do enjoy seeing what everyone is doing though.

 

Well that would explain why the 2 'finished' cars Dad's gotten from the east coast are piles of ****. It's extremely irritating that those who find this type of repair acceptable also feel that they can represent and price the vehicle as if it was done in the caliber of one that was repaired correctly.
It's always been my opinion that it takes just as much (if not more) time and effort to do it wrong as it does to do it right.

Just five-finger some old road and/or business signs and rivet/screw them to the floor. Seems to be the fashion these days. Resist the urge to apply seam sealer with a paint roller...you'll be thankful later. At least it'd be easier to un-do that mess rather than remove the fiberglass-cobbled mess.