ignition solenoid issues
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ignition solenoid issues
I have an 88 f250 302 m5od 4x4 So the solenoid has been sticking on to the point I have to smack it with something to get it to open and stop spinning the engine over I replaced the solenoid numerous times just replaced the starter, the solenoid to starter wire, and the battery to solenoid wire, I'm using the heavy duty advance auto solenoid, I've recently been told to try the red Napa solenoid, I've noticed it happens when its wet more than cold like after a heavy rain, with work and school I can't seem to focus on the proper way to diagnose my problem and when I search here it seems everyone has a similar problem but not similar enough i still have some idiots in the wiring to work out (my own and from previous owners) advice guidance or direction to a thread would be appreciated
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Truck wouldnt even crank today, Well I took it to advanced, its 850 CCA , tested at 758 which they said is good (I'm assuming that is low enough to cause the solenoid to stick) started talking to the guy behind the counter and he mentioned the grounds so I picked up a new one, so I brought it home put it back in and put the new ground from block to battery started touching around with a test light, I have power at my ignition switch wire with key off and power at both sides of the main posts on my terminal and on my old block to battery ground the starter side is reading around 4 volts then drops I'm assuming that I have a short somewhere under the hood
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Did some research and tested the eec power relay an found it was staying on after the key was shut off if I remove the relay I no longer have power on my grounds in gonna replace it and trace the two extra ground wires a previous owner installed and hopefully find out why they have power
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From: Sherrills Ford, NC
You may want to check that there is no power coming from the ignition switch as well. If the ignition switch is still sending power to the relay it will stay engaged and so will the solenoid.
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From: Baltimore
Did some research and tested the eec power relay an found it was staying on after the key was shut off if I remove the relay I no longer have power on my grounds in gonna replace it and trace the two extra ground wires a previous owner installed and hopefully find out why they have power
The EEC relay has 4 wires.
With ignition Off
White/Light Blue wire should have zero volts.
Black wire is ground
Yellow wire 12 volts at all times
Red wire is the output contact of the EEC relay and when the relay is closed it provides 12 volts to the following.
12 volts for Primary coil of the fuel pump relay
12 volts to the EEC pin 57
12 volts for Canister Purge solenoid
12 volts for EGR EVR solenoid
12 volts for TAB air bypass solenoid
12 volts for TAD air diverter solenoid
12 volts for fuel injectors
12 volts for Throttle air bypass valve solenoid
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From: Baltimore
They are the ground wires for the EEC.
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From: Baltimore
Here's a picture of my battery negative cable. I have a replacement terminal at my negative battery cable.
The large ground cable goes to the engine block.
The two small Black wires come from the EEC (the two pins you mention) and go to a connector. The other end of the connector are connected to the replacement clamp I have on the negative battery cable terminal.
How many wires do you have on the negative battery terminal?
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From: Baltimore
I didn't see the 4th one.
It's the ground wire for the Anti Lock brake proportioning
valve.
Using your ohm meter you should have continuity from Pin 40 and 60 to the negative battery terminal.