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ignition solenoid issues

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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 02:58 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
OK I'll check when I get home, is there supposed to be any measurable voltage on those wires?
You need to make sure you're using a good ground point for your measurements or you will get incorrect readings. Using the negative battery terminal for your Black probe is the best way.

Both wires at pin 40 and 60 are ground wires and connect to the negative battery terminal.

If you use your ohm meter, you should measure zero ohms or very low resistance from pin 40 or pin 60 to the negative battery terminal. If you don't something is wrong with the wiring.
 
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Old Mar 19, 2015 | 03:01 PM
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OK I'll check it out
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 12:57 PM
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Well I went out today and got the starter replaced im waiting to install it, I did ohm readings key on and off both are 0 ohms, then tested the voltage key off i have 197mv on both 40 and 60 and the abs wire key on i have 9.27 volts on 40 and 60 and 1.1 volts on the abs while doing this i noticed my relays were not clicking so I tested both high current feeds are 12.22 tested my key on feed for the eec power relay at 12.22v but on the out feed i only have 8.38 and my fuel pump relay has 12.22v on the main feed but no other power
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 01:03 PM
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Also I started the test with a brand new eec power relay and originally thought I bought the wrong one so I swapped to the original and got the same readings
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 01:23 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
I did ohm readings key on and off both are 0 ohms,
Valid ohm readings are only done with no power on the circuit

Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
then tested the voltage key off i have 197mv on both 40 and 60
Was this test done with the ABS Black/White ground wire disconnected from the negative battery terminal?

In your testing, are you back probing the wires on the connector with the connector still attached to the EEC?

Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
the abs wire key on i have 9.27 volts on 40 and 60 and 1.1 volts on the abs while doing this.
1.1 volts on the ABS ground wire with the key Off?

Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
i noticed my relays were not clicking so I tested both high current feeds are 12.22 tested my key on feed for the eec power relay at 12.22v but on the out feed i only have 8.38 and my fuel pump relay has 12.22v on the main feed but no other power
If you disconnect the EEC connector and turn the ignition On does the voltage on the output of the EEC relay jump to 12.22 volts and not drop down to 8.38 volts?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 01:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by F150xlt
Valid ohm readings are only done with no power on the circuit
Thanks ill remember that


Originally Posted by F150xlt
Was this test done with the ABS Black/White ground wire disconnected from the negative battery terminal?
Yes all three are disconnected

Originally Posted by F150xlt
In your testing, are you back probing the wires on the connector with the connector still attached to the EEC?
(Im assuming your referring to the firewall plug to the pcm) yes


Originally Posted by F150xlt
1.1 volts on the ABS ground wire with the key Off?
Key on (sorry I jumbled everything together)

Originally Posted by F150xlt
If you disconnect the EEC connector and turn the ignition On does the voltage on the output of the EEC relay jump to 12.22 volts and not drop down to 8.38 volts?
(Assuming your referring to the firewall plug) ill try that next but im gonna wait till you confirm that's the connector you mean
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 01:48 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
T
(Assuming your referring to the firewall plug) ill try that next but im gonna wait till you confirm that's the connector you mean

Yes the connector at the firewall that bolts to the EEC. The EEC box is physically located inside the cab side kick panel.

With the EEC connector disconnected turn the ignition On. With the EEC relay installed, back probe the Red wire on the relay socket. The output voltage of the Red wire should be basically the same voltage as the Yellow wire and not 8 volts.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 01:55 PM
  #23  
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OK I'll go do that now but the red wire and the large yellow wire were 12 volts it was the wire energized by the red wire that was only 8 volts
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 02:00 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
OK I'll go do that now but the red wire and the large yellow wire were 12 volts it was the wire energized by the red wire that was only 8 volts

When the EEC relay closes/energizes, the Yellow wire at the relay socket which is hot all the time passes 12 volts through the closed relay output contact to a Red wire. This Red wire powers the EEC and a bunch of other solenoids I listed in a previous post.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 02:18 PM
  #25  
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Back probing the red wire


Back probing the smaller yellow wire
This is with the EEC unplugged
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 02:30 PM
  #26  
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With the EEC plug still disconnected.
Pull the EEC relay out of the socket.
Turn ignition On.
What voltage do you read on the red wire?
It should be zero.
Yellow wire 12 volts.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 02:38 PM
  #27  
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No i still have 12 volts
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 02:43 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bad a$$ roth
No i still have 12 volts
What's the voltage on the Yellow wire?
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 02:45 PM
  #29  
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12 on the big one 0 on the little one
 
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Old Mar 20, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #30  
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Big one is 12 the little one is 0
 
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