Lowered rear shock solutions
Hiosilver used Fatman fabrications rear flip kit on his bump side build which looked very complete, including the c-notch, rear shocks and shock extenders but is also around $500.
At this point I'm thinking either fab some similar brackets, or a member on my lightning forum built a new crossmember for the upper shock mounts so that is out there. Fatman wouldn't split up the kit so I'm on my own.
Whatcha got?
Hiosilver used Fatman fabrications rear flip kit on his bump side build which looked very complete, including the c-notch, rear shocks and shock extenders but is also around $500.
At this point I'm thinking either fab some similar brackets, or a member on my lightning forum built a new crossmember for the upper shock mounts so that is out there. Fatman wouldn't split up the kit so I'm on my own.
Whatcha got?
I drew up and dimensioned the shock relocators and the pics are in my build thread.
I'd gladly buy the setup from Fatman if they would offer it separate from the flip kit...
I'd gladly buy the setup from Fatman if they would offer it separate from the flip kit...
Another option is to get DJM's CalMax shocks which are shorter to coincide with their spring hanger/shackle parts.
... and if you do get the Calmax shocks, post up the specs (full compression & extension) and all the part numbers stamped on the body. I figure they are an off-the-shelf shock made by Tenneco.
A more involved process is to measure full droop and full compression, stroke, and installation angle and find the corresponding shocks in a manufacturer's catalog. After IDing the shock, then we search for its application among brands and the cross-over PNs.
Think of it this way...the suspension travels up and down, right? There is not much movement laterally.
There is a trigonometric calculation involved with spec'ing shocks... that's why it is important to calculate the effective stroke (shorter) because the shock is mounted at an angle. A shock would experience a 1:1 stroke-to-suspension travel ratio if it were mounted at 90°.
What I did was take a piece of square tube make crossmember between frame added tabs to the top of it. And on axle made some mounts. Bought some shocks for the front of a chevy 4x4 gas filled with 6 inch stroke. Set ride height. I wanted to stiffen the ride up and achieve better weight transfer for launches. The shocks are mounted at approx 10 degrees from straight up and down to allow for the axle to travel on its arc. A little stiff for just bumping around town but it doesn't feel like a boat and it doesn't squat real bad anymore when launching hard with 33x15 slicks.
If you want factory like feel you should probably not take this advice.
Also if I would have had the room I would have moved them outside the frame for more lateral stability. Basically it's all angles and leverage and desired affect. Do some research and you can achieve whatever you want.







