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Took the plug apart at the cam sensor and cleaned it. No change. This is what I have, I added a couple of peds to the scan gauge. With the key on engine off and then cranking. When I have the key on engine off all gauges go to midpoint but the oil pressure one. After cranking it for a few seconds it finally does move but still not start. My battery light stays on the whole time even after I charged them. It seems like it is turning over slow but that may just be me. Here is the data I got today. Also took the cap off the oil filter and turned over the truck and saw the oil raise to the top.
Could this all just be a wiring harness issue? What are the chances of it being either a oil cooler or hpop?
The numbers you post highlighted in bold red are of concern to me. Normally at KOEO, your IPR Duty Cycle % should indicate 14.84% and increase to about 40 something % while you crank the engine over, assuming your ICP rises up normally which brings me to my next point. I'll assume your ICP readings are ICP psi. What about ICP VOLTS? What do you get for readings at KOEO and while cranking? You should be seeing about 0.24 volts at KOEO, and should rise to a MINIMUM of 0.8 in order for the engine to fire. But above all else, your SYNC failing to switch from 0 to 1 while you crank the engine over will definitely cause it to fail to start as well.
can I see the volts using the scan gauge, if so do you know what the info is I need to put in? Yes the ICP reading was psi. What else would cause the sync to stay at 0?
can I see the volts using the scan gauge, if so do you know what the info is I need to put in? Yes the ICP reading was psi. What else would cause the sync to stay at 0?
Definitely monitor your ICP volts readings at KOEO and while cranking the engine over to see what it changes to. If the CMP sensor circuit checks out good, you may want to try borrowing a known good FICM to plug in and try. FICM SYNC in plain English just means the PCM and FICM are either "talking" or "shaking hands" with each other, or they are not. If they are not, there could be other reasons other than just the CMP sensor reading.
I got
.23 ICV
47.5 FMP
18.7 IPR
11.7 VLT
I just had the batteries checked and charged last weekend and now they are dead again.. Guess I will replace them and see what I get.
At this point, based on the information posted, I would try one of my earlier suggestions which is to "borrow" a known good FICM to swap in and try. If I recall correctly, you had cylinders #1 through #8 circuit low codes as part of a bunch listed in your original post. In my experience, this means the FICM is likely no good. Even if your FICM main voltage remains steady at 47.5 volts it could still be bad for other reasons too. If your CMP sensor circuit checks out good, that's the only other thing to try. Failing that, you could have a base engine issue but I highly doubt that.
What what your results following the flow chart I provided?
not yet, look like a lot of work for one person t do. going to wait till my buddy can come over and help. question, in the beginning when it died and after I got it home I took out the IPR valve and the screen was tore. I bought a replacement screen kit and put it on after checking to see if anything was around the plunger. do you think I need to replace the IPR, its only about a couple years old.