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My '84 E250 came with an AM (mono) radio. I replaced it with an AM/FM cassette Kenwood/Bose 4-speaker system (6"X9" in individual boxes)... well, it was the trick lick back in the day... I bypassed the wiring harness and installed a simple wiring system; new wires to speakers (2 mounted under front seats, aimed up/aft & 2 on the rear doors, aimed fwd), tied the hot lead into the fuse box under the dash, and ground to dash frame support. It really was that simple - and sounded like you were backstage at a concert.
I went back the junkyard to look deeper into the van to see what I could use and picked up a new line for ac/heat controls since I found a broken connector on the cool/heat ****.
I started looking at the ac/heat and the problem is it doesn't work at all. I just picked up a DVOM to start testing. First was looking at the blower motor, which was seized up. I took it apart and cleaned it well and did a bench test and it operated smoothly. My resister needs to be replaced but from looking at the wiring diagram, the system should still run on high.
My question to you, does the system or blower run when the van is not running?
My '84 E250 came with an AM (mono) radio. I replaced it with an AM/FM cassette Kenwood/Bose 4-speaker system (6"X9" in individual boxes)... well, it was the trick lick back in the day... I bypassed the wiring harness and installed a simple wiring system; new wires to speakers (2 mounted under front seats, aimed up/aft & 2 on the rear doors, aimed fwd), tied the hot lead into the fuse box under the dash, and ground to dash frame support. It really was that simple - and sounded like you were backstage at a concert.
This is what I'll most likely do since there's no wiring behind the dash but there's a fuse spot in the block I can use.
Not sure if this is stock, but I have two batteries under the hood. Now I did say this was a farm truck so help me figure out why there's a 30 amp 125v female plug tucked away. Any idea what they would use this for?
I went back the junkyard to look deeper into the van to see what I could use and picked up a new line for ac/heat controls since I found a broken connector on the cool/heat ****.
I started looking at the ac/heat and the problem is it doesn't work at all. I just picked up a DVOM to start testing. First was looking at the blower motor, which was seized up. I took it apart and cleaned it well and did a bench test and it operated smoothly. My resister needs to be replaced but from looking at the wiring diagram, the system should still run on high.
My question to you, does the system or blower run when the van is not running?
Yes, it should run on high with a bad resistor.
My fan will run with the key rotated to the forward on position, but does not run with the key rotated backwards in the on position.
Not sure if this is stock, but I have two batteries under the hood. Now I did say this was a farm truck so help me figure out why there's a 30 amp 125v female plug tucked away. Any idea what they would use this for?
If memory serves, there was a special order dual battery option for vehicles intended for first responder use (fire, emergency rescue, ambulance, etc.). This usually included a H/D alternator and a transformer (DC to AC). I suppose one could order a "farm" vehicle so equipped, but this looks like an aftermarket addition to me. Trace the wiring; look for a transformer and the means by which the extra on-board battery would be charged.
Honestly this could have been a first response van. It had wires for cb radio along with a siren/speaker mounted up front. It was also wired for lights at the top of the A-pillar that look like they were the ones mounted like police cars with the handles come through. Also there is bolts on top of the van that don't resemble a roof rack mount but that of maybe lights that were mounted on top.
Sat was a little rainy in the am so I spent the morning working on rejetting the carb. When I first got it the van would bog anything above half throttle and seemed like it was starving for fuel. I bought a kit from advance auto to replace all the gaskets and power valve. I started tuning by looking at the jet size that came with the carb which were 68s, so I went to 74s and it rain a little better. I stepped it up to 80s and it got slightly better. Something else was deff going on so I reread online about these carbs and thought maybe the bowl wasn't being filled up fast enough so I adjusted that and nothing changed. Finally I learned that there are different size power valves. The one I took out of the carb was a 0-2, and the one in the "kit" was a 6.5 which is wayyy bigger so that's where the problem lies.
In the end if I just increased the jet size to 80 and didn't change the power valve I would have been golden. Carbs are so frustrating until you get rewarded with the beautiful sound of high rpm
For the radio, I would be tempted to buy one of those all-in-one overhead tractor cab radios....Just mount it to the ceiling, wire in 12v and install an antenna and you're done.
For the radio, I would be tempted to buy one of those all-in-one overhead tractor cab radios....Just mount it to the ceiling, wire in 12v and install an antenna and you're done.
I actually looked at those units but I have a radio already that has been sitting in my room from my previous ranger that I can swap in. I bought some 5.5" speakers for the door and I'm good to go for around $50.
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