Starting rebuilt engine for the first time
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Midpines Calif.
Starting rebuilt engine for the first time
Just want to be sure i dont mess up. Turn oil pump w/drill(does it matter witch way)? Face roter to #1 cyl, and crank engine. Anything else ?? This is a 226 /6 btw.
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Joined: Jun 2012
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From: Frankfort, Ohio
I agree with what Ross said. If everything is right, It should fire as soon as fuel is present. When it starts,, just let it idle for awhile and check all of it's vital signs. ie , oil pressure, temp. If all is good rev it up a little at a time. and follow normal break in procedures. Good luck.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,300
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From: NM
You don't want to idle long once oil pressure is established, but flatheads have low spring pressures so the usual "2,000 RPM for 20 minutes" is kind of overkill. It isn't that great for new rings, either. Hastings has an excellent procedure:
https://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceT..._procedure.htm
https://www.hastingsmfg.com/ServiceT..._procedure.htm
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 831
Likes: 7
From: Milford, Michigan
Oh, I also spun the starter with a 12 volt battery making sure that I checked the motor to make sure it didn't get too hot. When it got a bit warm I stopped and let it cool.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Midpines Calif.
Thanks for the ideas,i have a shaft from another distributor that is why i was using it but pulling the plugs is easier.Thanks guys,crossing my fingers.It will be a day or two before i try.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
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From: Milford, Michigan
Unless your 226 is different than mine (H series), the extra distributor wouldn't help anyways. If you hook up a drill to the distributor and try to spin it, the gear on the oil pump which engages the camshaft will not allow the pump to turn unless the camshaft turns. Of course the camshaft can't turn unless the crankshaft turns and so on. I use the distributor trick when I rebuild Chevy's since you can remove the gear from the distributor (so you won't turn the camshaft) and then engage the pump with the distributor and spin it. That trick doesn't work on the 226 H series ('48-'52). Not sure though if the older G series ('42-'47) 226 engines with the front mounted distributors are different. Good luck starting it!!
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What is y'all thought on using a break-in oil for a new start up?
I am planning on using "Brad Penn Green Break-in Oil" with extra zinc for my start up. Also will be pressurizing the system by removing the plugs and cranking the engine till it builds up oil pressure. After it is running I plan on using the Hastings procedure. Then change the oil and filter.
Also I will be running clear water for the first start up and drain the water and any contaminants from the machine shop residue. Then anti-freeze will be added.
Any other suggestions?
Scott in Texas
I am planning on using "Brad Penn Green Break-in Oil" with extra zinc for my start up. Also will be pressurizing the system by removing the plugs and cranking the engine till it builds up oil pressure. After it is running I plan on using the Hastings procedure. Then change the oil and filter.
Also I will be running clear water for the first start up and drain the water and any contaminants from the machine shop residue. Then anti-freeze will be added.
Any other suggestions?
Scott in Texas
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
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From: NM
You have a flat V8, right? I think the high-dollar zinc-rich oil is overkill, especially if you aren't going to run it all the time. But it depends what is new in your engine; new cam? new lifters? If so, you may want to do it. The zinc won't last if you change to "regular" oil after break-in.
Are you planning on plain water out of fears of leaks? You'll be kind of "pre-rusting" the system if you don't have any anti-corrosion agent in it. If it's only in there a day or so, minimal chance for problems. I wouldn't worry about machine shop residue, they should have tanked it after any work. The most important thing is, re-torque the heads at least twice, until they are holding 50 ft-lbs.
Are you planning on plain water out of fears of leaks? You'll be kind of "pre-rusting" the system if you don't have any anti-corrosion agent in it. If it's only in there a day or so, minimal chance for problems. I wouldn't worry about machine shop residue, they should have tanked it after any work. The most important thing is, re-torque the heads at least twice, until they are holding 50 ft-lbs.
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Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 74
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You have a flat V8, right? I think the high-dollar zinc-rich oil is overkill, especially if you aren't going to run it all the time. But it depends what is new in your engine; new cam? new lifters? If so, you may want to do it. The zinc won't last if you change to "regular" oil after break-in.
Are you planning on plain water out of fears of leaks? You'll be kind of "pre-rusting" the system if you don't have any anti-corrosion agent in it. If it's only in there a day or so, minimal chance for problems. I wouldn't worry about machine shop residue, they should have tanked it after any work. The most important thing is, re-torque the heads at least twice, until they are holding 50 ft-lbs.
Are you planning on plain water out of fears of leaks? You'll be kind of "pre-rusting" the system if you don't have any anti-corrosion agent in it. If it's only in there a day or so, minimal chance for problems. I wouldn't worry about machine shop residue, they should have tanked it after any work. The most important thing is, re-torque the heads at least twice, until they are holding 50 ft-lbs.
All new stuff inside the V8, the engine has been tanked a couple of times after the work was done, my builder recommended the clear water during the first start up. He also recommend I re-torque the heads a couple of times or so after running the engine and getting it hot.
He is very adamant about the torque and said not to let the engine idle a while until after the rings are seated.
Scott in Texas
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