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So hpo pump is going to be my culprit is what you all are telling me. Before any of the work i done to it it always did have a studderas u would accelerate after warmed up . And since all work done egr delete, radiator, filters and fluids, oil cooler, gaskets, injector orings, icp, cmp and anytthing im forgetting it still has that studder or hiccup . Just sluggishness same as befor all the work. So is this why i was getting my hot no start and powerless until warm prior. Any idea where i can get a hpo reasonbly priced . Itll have to wait due to being broke. Well thanks guys guess im done looking and going to dig into the hpo removal.
Yes and No. It means that pump is being asked to make max pressure. You either have a leak or the pump has failed. being you have an 03, my guess would be the pump. Still need to do an air test to prove you have no other leaks.
Yes and No. It means that pump is being asked to make max pressure. You either have a leak or the pump has failed. being you have an 03, my guess would be the pump. Still need to do an air test to prove you have no other leaks.
So would the pump be more likely to cause the died while driving or can an hpo leak do that as well. Just seems a leak wouldnt kill it so pump being more of a catastrophic fail and cause it to die like it did .
That is what happen to me about a 1.5yrs ago. Driving down the great hwy in San Francisco, motor goes died. I could see on SCII, I had no ICP pressure. I called AAA and had her towed home. Pull it all apart and found the cover was rubbing on the discharge tube. Die grinder fixed that problem, but ford did make a up dated cover to solved that. I removed the discharge tube from the pump and placed shop air pressure where it branches from to each head. No oil leaks were found. So, I knew the pump had failed! Because of the time it take to get that deep into the motor. I replaced the IPR and the discharge tube because of the orings inside the tube. I took a very small funnel and poured oil down into the pump for easier start up.
Your ICPV look good HPOP time as the guys have already expressed, sorry , you may need to stick a charger on those Battery's as they may have been draining with the starting try's also the FICM VP is weakening , no rush right now but when you get the HPOP issue fixed monitor the FICM on cold start just FYI
Will be headed to houston for wprk so truck will be down 6or 8 weeks. When i get back its hpop time. 😠😣. Will be checking forum and getting tips for removal. Had alot of debri stck to oily surface under valve cover. Not real bad but i noticed is this nprmal sludge or should it be dry in there . Wish i didnt have to go to houston as i want it fixed. Actually had to give up on my business cus of truck thank God the job was available. Im jist a poor country boh with 6.0 now. Used to run a 7.3 psd . Dont get me wrong i loved it. But the power thos 6.0 had when i first drove it blew my doors off. And it hauls anything i threw at it . Newer and cleaner than my 7.3 so i bought it. Here i am . GOD BLESS all of you 6.0 gurus appreciate ya
Could someone direcrt me where to look for directions of this removal and replacement. Any tips or trcks. Things like parts ill need maybe part numbers.
illustrations perhaps. Mainly a sequence of steps to follow. Also things to look for or change while there. Oil coolr has 900 miles on it so itll be ok i believe. Thanks again
Ok, new Hpop. there are a few way to go. 1. Buy a reman for ford. not sure I would go that route any more. 2.if I had the money buy a Adrenaline High Output. 3.I just found out about this guy, The dieselguru on youtube. He rebuilds the pump and builtproofs them. He can upgrade swash plate to improve the out put by 30%. Changing the swash the 17* stock swash plate to a 19* swash plate. I dont know anything about him other than what I've seen on youtube.