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Well after searching for days I can't seem to find the right answers to what I'm looking for.
First a little about my truck. 96 f-250, standard cab. 4X4, manual trans. Straight pipe, cold air intake,wicked wheel, electric pump conversion. No chips or programmers.
I've had the truck about a month now and I've been working on a few problems. The biggest one so.far is a cooling issue. I replaced the thermostat with a new one. The gauge on the dash will read really hot after about 20 min of run time.it's about 50 degrees out side. The heater blows super hot and the radiator is cold all over along with the hoses. Its building a little pressure in the degass also. Could this be a water pump problem or a radiator problem? I'm at a loss hear. I talked to my local mechanic and he said not to wordy about the temp gauge cuz it runs off the oil temp in the motor. But I just don't feel safe running it around like this.thanks in advance.
The temp gauge is for water temp and personally I would find a new mechanic if he's telling you not to worry about the temp of your motor. More than likely your radiator is getting plugged inside. How is the antifreeze and do you know how it has been taken care of for its life?
It looks clean and green. Thre gauge seas hot but I can shut it down and almost run my hand all over the motor and it don't burn me. I felt the heater lines and they get hot. It's not leaking anything or running like the motors extremely hot like the gauge is saying. I did buy a set of mechanical gauges today that I'm going to put on tomorrow to better watch things. I believe I found the right spot for the oil pressure but in not sure we're to put in the water temp one.
Ok is the water one near the front? It was running hot with the old t stat and after I.installed this new one it's just crazy hot now. What's the best way of cleaning the radiator out?
You can get the water temp from the port on the pump by the water neck. You can take the rad to a rad shop to be flushed but it's not always the answer. I've seen it not work out and have to replace the rad anyway. These trucks are pushing twenty years old and all in all it's probably not a bad idea.
Ok I'll prolly look into a new radiator and pump while I have everything out. Also what about the fan clutch,I can never hear it kick in. Could. This be an issue?
It could be worn out. Mine will never shut off right now. It needs replacing. They work off a little thermostat on the front. It heats up from the radiator and engages. If no hot water is going thru the rad then it's herd to tell. The pain is you won't know till you have everything back together.
what brand thermostat did you put in it? a lot of the aftermarket t-stats just plain don't work in these engines.
only use ford or international t-stats.
What readings are you getting from the gauges you installed? My dash gauge barely makes it to the o in normal, but my Autometer's say I'm running about 190-200 coolant temp.... don't trust the dash gauges.
Another thing you can do is a coolant drop test. That is, go to your local auto parts or fleet farm, purchase a radar heat gun. Run engine up to operating temp (your best guess) and do a test of water inlet (to radiator) for 15-20 seconds. Average your highest temp and lowest temp at this point of the radiator. Next do it to the radiator outlet. Then subtract the numbers. For example if you got 180 F in the inlet and a 175 F in the outlet. thats only a 5 degree drop. which means the core of your radiator could be rusting out.
But if you get 180F and 135F you have a 55 degree drop which could lead a plugged radiator. I am unaware of the proper temperature drop.
The heat guns are priceless in diagnosing an issue like this.if its hot under the t stat and cold above then t stat. If the rad is not dropping temp then head. The gun will help infinetly to accurately diagnose and not waste cash.
I got my t stat from a zone, its a 203 long stem and I can't remember the name it said on it. I'm almost done with mechanical gauge instal. What should be the normal operating temp be,200? Should I try a dealer t stat before I dig deeper? And I'll try to get my hands on a heat gun and take some readings to. Could this a zone t stat just not be letting coolent out of the motor?