Got a factory stock 460 with dual air pumps and I'm considering deleting the AIR system.

beacuase the fittings are so badly rusted it will probably be necessary to cut the air lines at the exhaust manifolds and weld over the holes.

Otherwise it should just be a matter of removing the pumps and associated plumbing. I'm thinking I should be able to just cap off the vacuum lines that operated the AIR valves and leave the rest of the vacuum lines and EVAP system intact.

Question... how does the cross over tube between the heads on the back of the motor come apart and what size plugs Will I need for the holes?

Finally, is deleting the AIR system a good idea? I like the way the truck is running right now and don't want to create any new problems, but I'd also like to clean up the engine bay in this van chassis.

Any thoughts on the subject would be appreciated.

 

I deleted everything on my 460. I cannot say if it made any difference as changed the intake and carb at the same time. I did not want all of the emissions garbage on my truck. It cleaned up under the hood nicely.

I believe the crossover on the heads will require something similar to a freeze plug. It looked difficult to get at without pulling the heads or the engine so I plugged the crossover and left it there.

If you can get the fittings out of the exhaust manifolds, there is a plug that will fit it. I can dig up the part number if you need it.

I'm sure someone else will chime im with some more specific info.

 

I eliminated all of that C**P on my 460, and it had a DEFFINATE increase in power. The easiest way is to just replace the exhaust manifolds with older ones. As for the crossover - mine were threaded. I plugged them with a 5/8" (short) bolt.

 

Taking the air pumps off should not affect how it runs, positive or negative. It does help in the room dept, but if a inspector lifts the hood you will fail.

It takes very little power to turn the air pumps.

If you have a welder, why not take the pipe off the back, cut the pipe on either side and cap it, and then put the little pieces back on to block the holes off.

 

My thermactor crossover ports were not threaded.
I hope getting to that pipe is easier in your RV than in my pickup!
It is a .666" freeze plug available at NAPA.

Non-emissions truck exhaust manifolds are not expensive on Ebay.
Braze, not weld the tube fittings shut if you don't want to get a 10 pack of plugs at NAPA.
IIRC from another thread, they are under a buck each

Removing the pump bracket will offer a LOT more room and you will no longer need the expensive and unobtainable pipe off the water pump.
I looked and looked for a reasonable $ high mount alternator bracket.

Your PCV is routed along with the ABPV pipe on the passenger side.
If you decide to just replace the pipe with hose be aware of the possibility a failed EGR spacer gasket will burn a hole right through.

Without the extra air helping to burn off HC in the exhaust, expect some popping on trailing throttle.
Be sure your joints are tight unless you like buying mufflers.

ET, good info in 'InsideMan's' thread; https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...s-removal.html

 

The .666 plugs are cheap at Napa, use a 10mm deep socket to install.

 

I've never been in a BornFree, but assume that's possible, unlike a P/U