lower control arms
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 24,324
Likes: 5,136
From: 0,0,1
It's not that simple. You have to take into account things like pot hole impact, hovering over 120 degree asphalt then snow and ice. The higher grade bolts are torqued much tighter to help eliminate these shifts in the metals or the potential to shear the bolt in half.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2014
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A lower grade bolt might also be more susceptible to metal fatigue over time, so I wouldn't risk using a lower grade bolt on something as important as control arms. Wait the extra few days and spend the extra bucks and get the correct bolts.
New User
Joined: Feb 2015
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days for a bolt looking local now n getting metalergys advice
the bars are rusted and broken now and the bolts survived why didn't they make the bars out or this steel,a broken bolt would be the same situation
thank u guys
thank u guys
Fleet Owner
Joined: Apr 2008
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New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 15
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got started
jacked up and drive shaft and rear end fell back into line phuu what a relief
quick question the 21mm bolt by the gas tank how do I hold the nut?can get a socket on it but there's less then 1/2"left and I cant get a ratchet on it to hold it?any thoughts,thought I would put a box wrench on it and let it spin till it jams' on something , but of chore my 21mm box is missing (dang kids)!
thank you
dennis
quick question the 21mm bolt by the gas tank how do I hold the nut?can get a socket on it but there's less then 1/2"left and I cant get a ratchet on it to hold it?any thoughts,thought I would put a box wrench on it and let it spin till it jams' on something , but of chore my 21mm box is missing (dang kids)!
thank you
dennis
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Tuned
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 411
Likes: 7
From: Proctorsville VT
Box end goes on the bolt, steel cheater pipe goes over the wrench, pipe goes to the garage floor, torque wrench goes on the nut, super human strength goes on the torque wrench.
Fleet Owner
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New User
Joined: Feb 2015
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impact wouldnt even breakem loose
so had to get some muscle help to get em off, but all in all came together just like you guys said, coma long and jack under rear, done 2.5 hrs
thank u guys soo much, cant belief it didn't tear up u joints or air bags
now on to the dreaded heater core the carx shop wants 1200$ to change!phu
thank u guys soo much, cant belief it didn't tear up u joints or air bags
now on to the dreaded heater core the carx shop wants 1200$ to change!phu
New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 15
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disappointed
2000 $$$ for a heater core(did have adrip on the floor ) the part cost 50 $ haven't found the post on the procedure and read yet ,but im told the whole dash and 50 otherthings have to come apart ya im disappointed, hope I can handle it, just love the size handling comfort if I had heat ,
thank u sounds like ur enjoying an adult beverage now or just have a bunch of money sitting around to fix ur truck either way
thank u
dennis
ya im disappointed, hope I can handle it, just love the size handling comfort if I had heat ,thank u sounds like ur enjoying an adult beverage now or just have a bunch of money sitting around to fix ur truck either way
thank u
dennis
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2014
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In the same boat here for the evaporator core on a 05, the dash has to come out and the HVAC unit has to be opened up, so its a project, but its not hard from what I can see. Just takes time and its tedious, keep removing screws and unclip stuff until the thing is out is basically it. I think the only special tool you need is the one for the quick connects on the coolant lines, or in my case, AC lines..