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Hi guys,
Was trying to give back to FTE, all have been helpful. So I figure I would post a problem solver. Had a nice oil leak traced to cam sensor o ring. All back together now crank no start.
Truck is half in and out of garage, torque pro isn't pulling any codes. I did accidentally pull my alternator cable out of the connector, luckily had one to replace.
Ideas would be great, did I wreck the sensor taking it out?
Sorry for your pain -- do you have the Sync(s) in your Torque? I've been very curious as to if the two are actually different (where you get a sync for FICM but not for Cam). I can grab my phone and give you the one I have...
Funny you ask, I have not been able to get the cam/crank sync to work, always has read 0. Do you have the pid? I can try it, I will see what I have worded in the pid
Obd2 mode 2209cd
Min value 0
Max value 1
Scale factor x1
Unit type sync
Equation {a:0}. Might of just figured it out had a space on equa
OBD header 7e0
Here is what I have for Cam vs Crank Sync (you have to manually enter this one).
PID: 2209cd
Long Name: Cam vs Crank Sync
Short Name: Sync
Minimum Value: 0.0
Maximum Value: 1.0
Scale Factor: x1
Unit Type: Sync
Equation: {A:1}
OBD Header: 7E0
The only difference I have seen in the folks that claim to have an FICM Sync gauge is the Equation is {A:0} (and of course they name it different. Maybe that is all it takes.
Funny you ask, I have not been able to get the cam/crank sync to work, always has read 0. Do you have the pid? I can try it, I will see what I have worded in the pid
Yes mine works: KOEO I get Zero engine running I get One... or No/Yes depending on gauge you choose...
Diesel dan, thanks for the help, I had an extra space in the equation for the pid, I get zeros KOEO, as well as cranking. Must of killed the sensor taking it out, and also date night with the wife
Guess I will try and pull the truck out with the escape( doubt it). Don't tell anyone my door will be open all night:-hu. I will finish my pics, and see if advance has the sensor tomorrow, the dealership doesn't.
New orings and part number. $6.50 w/tax. Miller Ford
Note. New larger oring is purple, original is black, must be an upgrade.
Black is nitrile rubber
Purple is perfluorelastomer or ethylene propylene.(guessing in the industry)
I also left the red oring on to get the new purple one past
Then changed red one.
Tools
8mm deep socket, 1/4 inch and ratchet.
Pulled air cleaner.
Set socket on nut from top, but couldn't get the torque.
So I left it on, and wrenched from below.
Tightened from the top.
Back together but no start lol. I will post when I get it running.
Movie time with my wife now.
Changeing o-rings will not fix anything for the electrical function. You could try checking for continuity other than that it will take a labscope or occiloscope and check the signal and wave form pattern. It is basicaly a electro magnet.
I didn't change the orings for that, I had an oil leak I was repairing, this is aftermath. Now I think about it, I might have pulled the sensor out crooked. One repair leads to another.
OP I simply meant you needed to look further for your electrical problem than your oil leak problem how ever you found that the oil leak itself [oil soaked connector] was the cause of your electrical problem.
Since I use an actual scanner I can not help with the torque pro problem. It would be a good thing to know as torque is widely used by many.
. I will finish my pics, and see if advance has the sensor tomorrow, the dealership doesn't.
