I did some more research based on your comment and I think using a SD front coil spring might work. The 05+ 2WD free length is about an inch taller than the Ex 2WD spring, but the 4WD coil spring is ~4-5" tall than the Ex spring. HTH

 

There is no way you are feeding those bags in between the coils on the Ex. Even with the front wheels drooped as low as I could get them, I couldn't get the bags in from the side. It is not that bad to do it... just take the wheel off, take off the brake caliper and hang it up out of the way, detach the front sway bar link, detach the lower shock mount bolt, detach the outer steering arm and let the whole thing just droop down until the top of the spring comes out of the upper spring cup. This allows you to push the bag down into the coil from the top. Don't forget to put the red, plastic guard on top of the coil spring retainer bolt at the bottom (keeps the bag from rupturing on top of the bolt) before inserting the bag itself.

Once the bag is in and you have worked it around to where it is in neatly, you can then use a jack and push the whole wheel assembly back up until the spring is back into the upper spring cup. (Can't remember off the top of my head if there is a spring retaining clip on the top part, but I think there is... not where I can look at it right now) Then put everything back together and run your air lines to wherever you want them to go for easy access later on.

If you can get your hands on a Haynes manual for the Ex or the F250, it clearly shows how to take the aforementioned things apart.

First time I took my front end apart it took me about 45 minutes each side just because I had to fight with the steering arms. I could yank the front end apart now in no time.

It is not that hard really. Air tools do make it easier, but to be honest I only use them for the lugs.

NOTE: you DO NOT have to remove the spring from its perch to install the bags. I just suggested replacing the insulators because you have it torn down that far already.

Oh yeah, I did not get an alignment after the bags were added. 30K miles now and no abnormal wear on my tires.

James

PS: Unsure how the other guy got spacers to work, especially 2 inches. I used 1 inch spacers and it jacked my alignment up! I had all the expensive bells and whistles camber adjusters as well.... if you recall, I even ground off some metal on the upper ball joint to clearance more room for adjustment. Give it a try I guess. Like I said before, if you can lift the front up 2" without dropping the radius arms down in the back, let me know how you did it!

 

I used new stock X springs and 1-1/2" spring spacers and 4 degree +/- camber/caster adjusters and a little work with a grider to get 2" lift in the front. I did have show the alignment tech how the camber adjusters worked !!!. This got me lots of clearence for my 285's and perfect alignment

 

I am glad you got it to work! Maybe I should have shown my alignment guy how to use the adjusters.

I run 285's with plenty of clearance now also. Actually thought about 295's but they are kind of an "off" size and didn't want any problems getting a replacement while traveling if I had to.

James

 

I have the airlift 1000 (they no longer hold air.... haven't look into the problem - yet) The install is actually pretty simple..
I cut the provided air hose in half, attached 1 end of each hose to an air bag but left the other end uncovered - to allow me to compress them.
There is only a very tiny space between the coil on our Ford's so you aren't fitting anything in that way.
I used a 3.5 Ton SUV floor jack and my old 2 Ton floor jack along with jacks stands. I lift the whole front using the crash bar behind the front bumper. Then put jack stands on either side of that jack. Put the small jack under the front spindle, remove the front wheel, disconnect the front sway bar, remove the single bolt holding the upper end of the spring in place, and LOWER that spindle and the top of the coil spring will pop out (no need to use spring compressor). Drop the lower bolt cover inside the spring and get it into place using a long screw driver/ratchet extension. Fold the air bag into a 'hot dog bun' shape and squeeze it into the top of the coil. Place the air hose through the hole in the top spacer of the air bag and feed the hose through a small hole in the inner fender up to the top. (I left mine in a nice coil zip-tied around something handy to keep it in place.
Then reverse the process to put the spring back in.
Repeat on the other side.

 

Thanks for all the great info. Purchased the airlift 1000 kit this morning, should be in tomorrow. I'll be upgrading front and rear brakes and shocks, I will definitely update on my progress. The sagging front end is very irritating. Going to do the coil seat pads as well, maybe paint the darn things too, idk. Thanks to all.

 

Can't wait to see the 100 pics you take and the big How-To write-up you make!

 

supported under front bumper framing




old worn shock and coil spring




lower air spring protector, threads onto lower spring bolt.




collapse air spring to aid install




air spring installed




install complete


And the verdict is...
hey guys, its been a few days since my tune-up/brake job/airlift 1000 install. sorry for the late post, I work a crappy schedule and if I would have posted during the tune up, on my phone, who knows how much longer it would have taken me. The airlift 1000 kit is a WINNER in my book. Install was a breeze, I was going to do a step by step, but its not that hard to do. I snapped a few before, during and after photos. was going to paint the area but just cleaned it with carb cleaner instead. was also going to replace the lower spring seat but parts store did not have in stock, they were fine tho. Boy! what a difference, truck handles like a dream. I set the bags at 40 psi (max is 50) the manufacturer says-, world of difference going through intersections and driveways. much less body roll taking turns, front end is nice and stiff but not too stiff. goldilocks zone. now that the fronts are in, the back feels like its loose, guess I need to get the airlift 5000 kit for the rear! I replaced shocks and brakes all around, went with ceramic pads (the squealing was so annoying), also went with OE shocks. If you are planning on installing the kit, spend a few bux ahead of time and ensure you have tall enough jack stands, you will have to support the vehicle frame high in front to ensure you can drop the wheel end low enough to release spring tension. luckily my stepdad had tall jack stands (my autozone ones worked for the brake job, but not for the kit install). so once again, not a step by step thread, but a few pics of my work on my x. I work on garbage trucks at night and work crazy *** hours, but I will always update and post. Once I get the kit for the rear (found them on sale at amazon for $250) usually a $560 kit. I will do a step by step on that install. until then, keep on trucking.

 

Do you know if it lifted the front at all or just supported it better?

 

Ummmm, I have no mods on my 5.4 2wd that I can think of (suspension wise) that I can think of and I'm running 305/16s... How are you guys having issues will 285s

 

Good to hear something worked good for you and thanks for responding! Many times someone gets an answer, does the job and never posts back about it ever. lol

 

Was in a hurry to get all jobs on the truck done that day, so I didn't measure before and after. Might have lifted it slightly, but not very much, definitely better supported tho.

 

Yea I understand, that's what I was avoiding, haha. Takes time to put a nice post together. I'm very happy with the feel of the truck now. Happy trucking. At work right now, hope the boss don't catch me, haha.

 

I can answer this for my Ex at least. Yes, it lifted the front of mine. Not sure how much, but you can't tell with the naked eye that there is any difference between the front and rear of mine now. When you deflate and then re-inflate the bags on the front, you can watch the front lift up a little.

Hope that helps.

James


PS: Even if there was no lift, the handling is SO much better that they are worth it. The OP was spot on with his assessment.

 

I am installing the airlift 1000s this weekend. On the picture above, did you disconnect the shock mount (maybe not the right term, but the bracket and nut at the top) or did the shock ride out enough to wedge it through?

Thanks for posting pics; I am good to do most anything if I just have a couple pics, which this forum is VERY good about.

Edit: I just realized I asked this above. Sorry I just can't quite tell from the picture if the shock is disconnected.