Shocking Question
When I bought them, There was good rebate that made them considerable cheaper than the Bilstiens

There is nothing magical about them, except that they work.
We also work with Chevy, Nissan and so on.

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If rancho is willing to let ford use this crappy OEM shock with a rancho sticker on it, then why on earth would I want to buy one of their products? By placing their name on these awful shocks they are okay with the perception that their brand is all about cosmetics and less about real performance. This says to me that they have "sold out" in a way which leaves a negative vibe in my little brain.
Now, rancho representatives have been here at Fte to promote their product and try to ease folks like myself that their "real" shocks are good quality, so, I'm just adding another log on the fire here. It's been a long time since we had this debate at FTE and with all the new faces it would be cool to see what y'all think.
If rancho is willing to let ford use this crappy OEM shock with a rancho sticker on it, then why on earth would I want to buy one of their products? By placing their name on these awful shocks they are okay with the perception that their brand is all about cosmetics and less about real performance. This says to me that they have "sold out" in a way which leaves a negative vibe in my little brain.
Now, rancho representatives have been here at Fte to promote their product and try to ease folks like myself that their "real" shocks are good quality, so, I'm just adding another log on the fire here. It's been a long time since we had this debate at FTE and with all the new faces it would be cool to see what y'all think.
I am not the smartest guy but my conclusion is that the money they make putting their sticker on the horrible oem shocks outweighs the negative backlash from people who realize how bad the FX4 shocks really are.
After a week of being on the truck I could compress them with ease and it would take what seemed like 10 minutes for them to fully extend. While it takes a lot of pressure to compress the Bilstein HDs and they spring back immediately.
I have the fx4 on my 250 cclb.
Thanks for any help.
I have the fx4 on my 250 cclb.
Thanks for any help.
As for wheel hop that is more of a challenge. I would say Ford has not done a good job on mitigating that. When you are putting out 800 + lbs of torque its hard to control. Things that will help: Heavy duty and or adjustable shocks, a traction device in the axle such as limited slip or lockers and or a traction bar. In addition if you have a older high mileage vehicle the bushings could be worn allowing movement.
Or you can rid yourself of it completely by wearing a smaller size shoe and adding a brick behind the go pedal.
A note of caution here: Excessive wheel hop can and often does lead to catastrophic damage to your axle, gears and suspension components.
On a leaf spring auto its the application of power which causes the axle to begin to wrap which twists the leaf spring set allowing the tire to lift, losing traction and then the sudden violent action of the leaf pack now overcoming the weight of the axle as it unwraps.
My '11 F 350 was prone to hop, especially coming up the road to the barn, it got steep and it truly took a feather approach on the go pedal. My '15 with limited slip axle does not give me wheel hop so in this cause I attribute it to the limited slip. That said in my race car I suddenly started having wheel hop which got worse real quick. What I finally discovered was a bushing on the right side had worn to the point it allowed the axle to move back and forth thus inducing wheel hop.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

After a week of being on the truck I could compress them with ease and it would take what seemed like 10 minutes for them to fully extend. While it takes a lot of pressure to compress the Bilstein HDs and they spring back immediately.
As for wheel hop that is more of a challenge. I would say Ford has not done a good job on mitigating that. When you are putting out 800 + lbs of torque its hard to control. Things that will help: Heavy duty and or adjustable shocks, a traction device in the axle such as limited slip or lockers and or a traction bar. In addition if you have a older high mileage vehicle the bushings could be worn allowing movement.
Or you can rid yourself of it completely by wearing a smaller size shoe and adding a brick behind the go pedal.
A note of caution here: Excessive wheel hop can and often does lead to catastrophic damage to your axle, gears and suspension components.
On a leaf spring auto its the application of power which causes the axle to begin to wrap which twists the leaf spring set allowing the tire to lift, losing traction and then the sudden violent action of the leaf pack now overcoming the weight of the axle as it unwraps.
My '11 F 350 was prone to hop, especially coming up the road to the barn, it got steep and it truly took a feather approach on the go pedal. My '15 with limited slip axle does not give me wheel hop so in this cause I attribute it to the limited slip. That said in my race car I suddenly started having wheel hop which got worse real quick. What I finally discovered was a bushing on the right side had worn to the point it allowed the axle to move back and forth thus inducing wheel hop.
Yes I was referring to the 45 and 65ish mph wheel hop issues.
Tire out of round
Tire out of balance
Tire with internal separation, look for bulge on sidewalls or on the tread of the tire itself
Tire with separating or peeling tread, look for the tread layer splitting or chunked away
Depending upon the what your wheel was built it maybe possible that it has some weight from and external source lodged in it (mud is common)
Tire out of round
Tire out of balance
Tire with internal separation, look for bulge on sidewalls or on the tread of the tire itself
Tire with separating or peeling tread, look for the tread layer splitting or chunked away
Depending upon the what your wheel was built it maybe possible that it has some weight from and external source lodged in it (mud is common)
Lucky for you duallys don't seem to ever have the problem.
I just bought a '15 350 dually pickup not chassis not yet reflected on my signature.
What part numbers did you use to order your Bilstein's for the 2015? Were yours the 4600 or the 5100's?
Like my 2011's that I tossed, the Bilstein catalogue is still 2-3 years behind current. I don"t off road, but do tow heavy. Need to dump them Rancho's.











