2015 Upfitter Wiring Diagram Help F250
#1
2015 Upfitter Wiring Diagram Help F250
Hi! I think I've figured this out... but looking for advice...
First, are the dotted lines just to indicate wiring bundles?
Second, if I disconnect the feed to post 87 (red circles) and replace with alternate power source (i.e. high beam for driving lights and low beam for fogs) will my truck explode? Also, will it be an issue to simply tie off the existing feeds to post 87?
#2
Hi! I think I've figured this out... but looking for advice...
1.) First, are the dotted lines just to indicate wiring bundles?
2.) Second, if I disconnect the feed to post 87 (red circles) and replace with alternate power source (i.e. high beam for driving lights and low beam for fogs) will my truck explode?
3.) Also, will it be an issue to simply tie off the existing feeds to post 87?
2.) It shouldn't cause a problem... but I'm not sure why you would want switched power going through a switched relay. Are you going to leave those two Upfitter switches on and let the Hi/Low switching take care of it?
3.) If you pull those wires off, just heat shrink or tape (insulate) them because they'll still be live with your key turned on.
#3
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It would probably be used to selectively control an aftermarket light array with the high beam switch.
The wires you.'re talking about disconnecting (according to the schematic) are hot SLL the time not just when the key is on. Agree that you would need to safely terminate them either way.
Now on to the rest of the story here...
I don't know what sort of wattage you're looking to control with your high beams, but what you have proposed will mean that you are splitting the wattage available for the high beams with whatever your accessory lighting is.
If you want the full wattage of the Upfitter switch line, I believe that you will need to break the input to the Upfitter switch C-23-00 #8 and run the output of your high beam switch to the input of the Upfitter switch. This will only steal a small amount of power from the high beam circuit as it will only be running the relay... It might not be easy to achieve this, depending on the actual wiring of the Upfitter switch inputs (looks like it may be a buss bar)..
Look at the left side of the Upfitter switches for the circuit I'm talking about..
The wires you.'re talking about disconnecting (according to the schematic) are hot SLL the time not just when the key is on. Agree that you would need to safely terminate them either way.
Now on to the rest of the story here...
I don't know what sort of wattage you're looking to control with your high beams, but what you have proposed will mean that you are splitting the wattage available for the high beams with whatever your accessory lighting is.
If you want the full wattage of the Upfitter switch line, I believe that you will need to break the input to the Upfitter switch C-23-00 #8 and run the output of your high beam switch to the input of the Upfitter switch. This will only steal a small amount of power from the high beam circuit as it will only be running the relay... It might not be easy to achieve this, depending on the actual wiring of the Upfitter switch inputs (looks like it may be a buss bar)..
Look at the left side of the Upfitter switches for the circuit I'm talking about..
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#9
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Thanks to the op for this wiring diagram. On my 2015 they work only with the ignition on. I added them to a 2006 and I thought they came on with the engine, so a remote start would activate them. I've been wondering if it could be changed, but if so it's above my electrical pay grade.
So yes, you're right in that the Upfitter switches only work when the ignition is on..
#10
It would probably be used to selectively control an aftermarket light array with the high beam switch.
Now on to the rest of the story here...
I don't know what sort of wattage you're looking to control with your high beams, but what you have proposed will mean that you are splitting the wattage available for the high beams with whatever your accessory lighting is.
If you want the full wattage of the Upfitter switch line, I believe that you will need to break the input to the Upfitter switch C-23-00 #8 and run the output of your high beam switch to the input of the Upfitter switch. This will only steal a small amount of power from the high beam circuit as it will only be running the relay... It might not be easy to achieve this, depending on the actual wiring of the Upfitter switch inputs (looks like it may be a buss bar)..
Look at the left side of the Upfitter switches for the circuit I'm talking about..
Now on to the rest of the story here...
I don't know what sort of wattage you're looking to control with your high beams, but what you have proposed will mean that you are splitting the wattage available for the high beams with whatever your accessory lighting is.
If you want the full wattage of the Upfitter switch line, I believe that you will need to break the input to the Upfitter switch C-23-00 #8 and run the output of your high beam switch to the input of the Upfitter switch. This will only steal a small amount of power from the high beam circuit as it will only be running the relay... It might not be easy to achieve this, depending on the actual wiring of the Upfitter switch inputs (looks like it may be a buss bar)..
Look at the left side of the Upfitter switches for the circuit I'm talking about..
#11
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Well, with the upfitter in the on position, and the feed (post 87) coming from , say the high beam, I plan to have the yellow-out (Switch #1) trip another relay that will feed the driving lights directly off the battery. I don't think with will (I hope!) affect the high-beam. This way, I'm thinking, I won't have to play with any of the other wiring.
#13
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