Tapping reduced
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2014
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Tapping reduced
My '67 has a 300, inline 6 in it. I've owned it for 10 months. I changed the oil about a month ago, and put a synthetic blend 10w30 and a new filter on it. Immediately, I noticed a louder tapping noise. I've had a ticking noise from the valve cover area since I've owned it, but this was a second noise. I drained a qt out of it, then added a bottle of Rislone. I drove it like that for the last month. The tapping and ticking persisted.
Today, I drained the oil. I had less than 500 miles on it and the filter. I put another filter on it and put Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil in it. No additional additives.
The tapping was gone within a few minutes of idling, but the light ticking persists. I'm not concerned with the valve ticking. The tapping (not knocking), annoyed me. Just a quick note for anyone else experiencing similar issues.
Today, I drained the oil. I had less than 500 miles on it and the filter. I put another filter on it and put Rotella T 15w40 diesel oil in it. No additional additives.
The tapping was gone within a few minutes of idling, but the light ticking persists. I'm not concerned with the valve ticking. The tapping (not knocking), annoyed me. Just a quick note for anyone else experiencing similar issues.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,643
Likes: 69
How many miles is on the engine BTC?
Generally speaking heavier oils will provide a thicker oil film, reducing metal-to-metal contact.
Your tapping noises, sometimes referred to as "valve train hash", also drive engineers nutz. It can emanate from so many creaky parts that it may be very hard to pin down the exact source. I've had to tell friends "Don't worry about it - it may be annoying but it won't affect function. If it is something critical it will eventually grow in intensity and make itself known and then you can deal with it".
Generally speaking heavier oils will provide a thicker oil film, reducing metal-to-metal contact.
Your tapping noises, sometimes referred to as "valve train hash", also drive engineers nutz. It can emanate from so many creaky parts that it may be very hard to pin down the exact source. I've had to tell friends "Don't worry about it - it may be annoying but it won't affect function. If it is something critical it will eventually grow in intensity and make itself known and then you can deal with it".
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 6,477
Likes: 19
From: Sheffield, AL
Biblethumpncop,
Years ago, I had a 1984 F150 with 4.9L engine [now belongs to my son]. The engine had ~85K easy miles and was in great shape. I was offered a free oil change in exchange for a favor to a shop owner.
I chose 10W30 Mobil 1 with a Motorcraft FL-1A filter. Immediately, upon start-up, the lifters clicked. They had never done that before. The answer was that synthetic oils are "thinner" than conventional oils. I am not talking about viscosity [or perhaps I am], since the 10W30 is what is recommended... grab an unopened quart of 10W30 synthetic in one hand and hold a quart of conventional 10W30 oil in the opposite hand. Rock them back and forth and feel which one "sloshes" more readily. This may be what is referred to as "pour point"?
This is why synthetic oils are so good in very cold climates.
By the way, that same engine does not display any lifter noise when using Rotella T5, which is a 10W30 synthetic blend.
Years ago, I had a 1984 F150 with 4.9L engine [now belongs to my son]. The engine had ~85K easy miles and was in great shape. I was offered a free oil change in exchange for a favor to a shop owner.
I chose 10W30 Mobil 1 with a Motorcraft FL-1A filter. Immediately, upon start-up, the lifters clicked. They had never done that before. The answer was that synthetic oils are "thinner" than conventional oils. I am not talking about viscosity [or perhaps I am], since the 10W30 is what is recommended... grab an unopened quart of 10W30 synthetic in one hand and hold a quart of conventional 10W30 oil in the opposite hand. Rock them back and forth and feel which one "sloshes" more readily. This may be what is referred to as "pour point"?
This is why synthetic oils are so good in very cold climates.
By the way, that same engine does not display any lifter noise when using Rotella T5, which is a 10W30 synthetic blend.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 862
Likes: 7
From: like subarctic, brrr man!
Changing oil from conventional to synthetic can cause problems. I've done it several times in the past with my engines because I live in the great white north, and indeed synthetic is awesome in cold.
However, I didn't just jump right into 100% synthetic, each oil change I would mix the oils, like 1/3 synthetic and 2/3 dino to let the synthetic clean out the engine untill I was full synthetic. Doing it gradually is much better, but if you had to jump right into it, I'd replace the oil filter a few times because the synthetic is gonna clean the crap out that's holding it together.
However, I didn't just jump right into 100% synthetic, each oil change I would mix the oils, like 1/3 synthetic and 2/3 dino to let the synthetic clean out the engine untill I was full synthetic. Doing it gradually is much better, but if you had to jump right into it, I'd replace the oil filter a few times because the synthetic is gonna clean the crap out that's holding it together.
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