Hi all
Im going to install an external engine oil cooler to try and help with my high temps. In my 6.9l na. When i say high temps its only on huge hills that see big temp spikes it doesnt take long for it to get back to normal operating temp but i want to try and minimize the spikes as its not something im comfortable with.

So where are the oil pick ups you all use for the turbo as im guessing thats prob the best one to use to run to the cooler and then i will drill and tap the sump for.the return line unless there is one on the block that can be used as a return.
I would love to use a filter sandwich plate but can not find one for that massive filter thread.
Many thanks
Rod

 

How hot is it getting? What kind d of gauge do you have? Where is the sensor?

 

You cant dump it to the sump, it will be a big pressure leak. Amsoil makes a remote style adapter for filter setup, you could plumb a cooler in that way, I have a used setup I might part with.

 

It will sit at 190-200f normal driving unless i hit a large hill and it shoots straight up to 230 but will come down pretty fast when it flattens out. but when towing its around 200-220 im to scared to take it up hills when towing.
i would be interested in the amsoil adapter.

 

Something like this, but not.


AN 8AN 13 ROW Universal Engine Transmission OIL Cooler Filter Relocation KIT | eBay

 

230 is nothing in oil temps. I see 230 coolant temps on all hills with camper on, havent installed the oil temp gauge yet.
Oil normally runs 20-30 higher than coolant.

 

These are coolant temps not oil temps

 

Pulling full throttle up hill at 3200rpm I was getting 240* oil temps on my MH.
A few things I have going for me is I have a one gallon oil filter and a deep pan for a total of 18 quarts of oil and a modified oil pressure regulator to keep my oil pressure at 50+ Hot and this keeps a good flow of oil to my piston nozzle's and Coated pistons keeps the piston temps down all working to keep oil temps down.... Look at your fan and shroud..... Try to keep all the cool air at the grill side moving through the Rad not around it. sometimes the little things you do will add up to better performance. on the end of the cylinder head there is a flush plug that was used to return Oil to the Engine from Air compressors in Medium duty trucks and busses. I found this out after I installed returns in the pan for my Air compressor and Turbo... It returns the oil to the head and drains down into the valley. There are plugs in the main oil gallery on both sides of the block.. taking oil from hear will reduce the pressure the mains see but as long as you use an orifice to keep the flow down the pressure regulator will adjust the return oil flow to compensate and you wont see a pressure loss. keeping the flow down will also increase the performance of the cooler as the oil will stay in the cooler longer and be cooled to a lower temp before returning to the engine. This will cool the overall engine temp some but it will probably be more work than you are willing to do and you will want to use a large capacity cooler to be most effective. Look into a larger filter and run 3/16 high on the dip stick. all this will help a little bit and sometimes the total performance gains made by small mods will add up to more than you think...

 

Thanks racer30 that's some excellent info I'm hoping all the small things help as you say. When you say a larger oil filter is it just a powerstroke filter or is it off something else. I don't believe my new fan clutch is really working at all i will see if i can test it some how. Do you think the deep oil pan has helped as well as these are all easy and relatively cheap things to help the cause. I will defenatly be looking into the oil cooler but will try all the other things out first and will do a lot more research on it. I'm going to do an oil change in the next few days so will do the filter first. And you recon run the oil 3/16 over the full mark.
Cheers
Rod

 

How did you modify the oil pressure regulator? And you modified it to get higher oil pressure?
Im also thinking.of.taking the oil cooler off just to make sure it is not blocked up. The hardest thing in aus if something is wrong with it you just cant get another one off the shelf it has to come from one of your states. So im tempted to just buy a new one and fit it but its a large cost to get one posted here if there is nothing wrong with mine. I guess i will pull mine apart and start there as its not my daily driver. Just a tow wagon for the boat.

 

Ok I have build thread... https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...nce-7-3-a.html and a flikr page that shows a bunch of my Mods... If you still have questions PM me and I will be glad to help you out...

 

Not much to go wrong with the cooler, if someone got stupid with the rtv the water tubes could be blocked but easy to clean out when off. I have orings and gaskets for the cooler if you have a hard time sourcing them. I just chipped a small flat rate box to AU, 23.00 usd. Shipping is a joke.

 

Do a flush before dumping your oil. Sludge build up can work as an insulator as well restricting heat radiation.