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I've got a 302 with an AOD in my 1982 F-100. It originally had the kickdown rod connected to the carb, but I'm installing a TV cable since I'm using a 4 barrel carb.
The below pic shows pretty much what mine looks like with the shift linkage and kickdown lever. Do I just remove the original kickdown lever to install the new lever provided by the Lokar kit? Also, since it installs up, the boss (circled in green) where the tv cable bracket and spacer are supposed to install on already has the throttle linkage attached. Do I just add this onto that? The instructions and everything I've seen do not go into this kind of detail.
If you have a AOD, you did not have a kickdown rod. You did have a throttle valve system already, the AOD won't shift without it. Just to let you know, the original setup was critical to not burning up the tranny, and the new setup will be just as critical. You might want to check a local tranny shop and see if they have the ability to hook a line pressure gauge to the tranny. If they do, they can check the specs and make sure it's all working correctly after you hook the lokar system up.
If you have a AOD, you did not have a kickdown rod. You did have a throttle valve system already, the AOD won't shift without it. Just to let you know, the original setup was critical to not burning up the tranny, and the new setup will be just as critical. You might want to check a local tranny shop and see if they have the ability to hook a line pressure gauge to the tranny. If they do, they can check the specs and make sure it's all working correctly after you hook the lokar system up.
Ok Dave.. Throttle valve rod then. I beg to differ though. The AOD will absolutely shift without it. Maybe not shifting right, and it may damage the tranny and is not advisable, but it will shift without it.
I also have a pressure gauge and have slept at a holiday inn express so I'm an expert at setting up the TV cable properly!
I'm just wondering how everyone else has attached theirs since the shift linkage attaches to where you are supposed to attach the TV cable bracket.
It is absolutely critical to keep what you call "the kick down" rod adjusted properly
to make the AOD not only shift right but to live.
I changed the rod setup aon my 1981 over to a cable which made the transmission
shift much smoother. I did it differently than most do in that I used a Ford cable
and brackets that I purchased in the 1990s. Lariat85 set his up used the Lokar cable
system and says it works well. Both He and I run 4bbl carburetors.
I know.. That's why I bought the kit and trying to get this thing installed. I'd just like to see a pic of how they connected it to their tranny with all the shift linkage on..
It is absolutely critical to keep what you call "the kick down" rod adjusted properly to make the AOD not only shift right but to live. I changed the rod setup aon my 1981 over to a cable which made the transmission shift much smoother. I did it differently than most do in that I used a Ford cable and brackets that I purchased in the 1990s. Lariat85 set his up used the Lokar cable system and says it works well. Both He and I run 4bbl carburetors.
I would LOVE to see a picture of how you connected the OEM Ford TV cable and brackets to your carburetor, Old Hickory. I thought about doing that, but I couldn't find the correct TV cable and brackets at the time I needed to do the job.
Originally Posted by silar
The AOD will absolutely shift without it. Maybe not shifting right, and it may damage the tranny and is not advisable, but it will shift without it.
I would NOT do that if I were you, Chief. Unless you have a constant pressure aftermarket valve body, letting it shift without the TV rod or cable in place will destroy the AOD (and GM 200R4 and 700R4) in just a few miles!
The AOD is much different than the C4 and the C6 in that the AOD doesn't rely on vacuum or use a kickdown lever for downshifts. It uses a throttle valve ("TV") rod or cable to control transmission line pressure, kickdowns, and all shift functions and characteristics. This is a direct link between the throttle and the transmission and it MUST BE SET UP CORRECTLY or the AOD will not last!
The TV rod directly controls the line pressure in the AOD. If the line pressure is not set correctly or if the TV rod is not connected to the carburetor correctly, it will burn up the transmission.
Originally Posted by silar
I've got a 302 with an AOD in my 1982 F-100. It originally had the kickdown rod connected to the carb, but I'm installing a TV cable since I'm using a 4 barrel carb.
What carburetor will you be using?
The problem with the aftermarket Holley and Edelbrock carburetors is that they do not have a kickdown bracket that will work with the AOD TV rod, and their throttle levers are not symmetrical to use a TV cable.
To correct the first problem, you will need to get a Lokar TV cable to replace the TV rod:
To correct the second problem, you will need to get a TV corrector bracket that bolts on to the Holley or Edelbrock carburetor throttle lever. If you don't, the shift points will be all wrong and the TV cable will get pulled out of adjustment every time you drive it. Out of adjustment AOD = burned up AOD.
I know.. That's why I bought the kit and trying to get this thing installed. I'd just like to see a pic of how they connected it to their tranny with all the shift linkage on.
The Lokar TV cable does work well, if it is set up correctly AND the carburetor has the correct geometry corrector bracket in place. I will try and get you a picture of how I set mine up at the carburetor and transmission end. I set mine up about 8 years ago, but unfortunately, Lokar has changed the kit over the years a little on how it connects to the transmission end, so mine might be set up a bit different than yours.
I would LOVE to see a picture of how you connected the OEM Ford TV cable and brackets to your carburetor, Old Hickory. I thought about doing that, but I couldn't find the correct TV cable and brackets at the time I needed to do the job.
I would NOT do that if I were you, Chief. Unless you have a constant pressure aftermarket valve body, letting it shift without the TV rod or cable in place will destroy the AOD (and GM 200R4 and 700R4) in just a few miles!
The AOD is much different than the C4 and the C6 in that the AOD doesn't rely on vacuum or use a kickdown lever for downshifts. It uses a throttle valve ("TV") rod or cable to control transmission line pressure, kickdowns, and all shift functions and characteristics. This is a direct link between the throttle and the transmission and it MUST BE SET UP CORRECTLY or the AOD will not last!
The TV rod directly controls the line pressure in the AOD. If the line pressure is not set correctly or if the TV rod is not connected to the carburetor correctly, it will burn up the transmission.
And if the geometry between the TV rod or TV cable is not exactly proportionate to the movement of the throttle, the TV rod or cable will get pulled out of adjustment. And when that happens, the line pressure is off again. This condition will burn up the transmission.
What carburetor will you be using?
The problem with the aftermarket Holley and Edelbrock carburetors is that they do not have a kickdown bracket that will work with the AOD TV rod, and their throttle levers are not symmetrical to use a TV cable.
To correct the first problem, you will need to get a Lokar TV cable to replace the TV rod:
To correct the second problem, you will need to get a TV corrector bracket that bolts on to the Holley or Edelbrock carburetor throttle lever. If you don't, the shift points will be all wrong and the TV cable will get pulled out of adjustment every time you drive it. Out of adjustment AOD = burned up AOD.
The Lokar TV cable does work well, if it is set up correctly AND the carburetor has the correct geometry corrector bracket in place. I will try and get you a picture of how I set mine up at the carburetor and transmission end. I set mine up about 8 years ago, but unfortunately, Lokar has changed the kit over the years a little on how it connects to the transmission end, so mine might be set up a bit different than yours.
I actually found an older post you had where you mentioned those items. That was exactly what I got, but want to make sure I'm mounting the transmission side right with the shift linkage. I've got an idea of how to do it... I just want to make sure...
And definitely please.. Any pics of the tranny side would be awesome. I've got the carb side covered.
The Lokar TV cable kit tells you to set the pressure using a TV pressure gauge. I went through all of that and I am going to tell that you do NOT need the gauge to set it up correctly. I have found that the shifts are very early and soft and the AOD doesn't want to downshift unless the gas pedal is on the floor if you set it up using the specified pressure gauge. Driving it like this makes the AOD feel weak and the clutches slip more, which builds up more heat and kills the transmission quicker.
I have found that the best (and safest) setting is make sure the TV cable is (almost) at it's maximum pull at wide open throttle. In other words, rotate the throttle linkage on the carburetor all the way until it stops, and then pull the TV cable all the way out until it stops, and that is where the TV cable end- stop should connect to the geometry corrector bracket.
This setting will give you positive upshifts, quicker downshifts, and an overall more responsive AOD.
While you are at it, I would also STRONGLY recommend an auxiliary transmission cooler, as heat is what kills any automatic transmission.
The Lokar TV cable kit tells you to set the pressure using a TV pressure gauge. I went through all of that and I am going to tell that you do NOT need the gauge to set it up correctly. I have found that the shifts are very early and soft and the AOD doesn't want to downshift unless the gas pedal is on the floor if you set it up using the specified pressure gauge. Driving it like this makes the AOD feel weak and the clutches slip more, which builds up more heat and kills the transmission quicker.
I have found that the best (and safest) setting is make sure the TV cable is (almost) at it's maximum pull at wide open throttle. In other words, rotate the throttle linkage on the carburetor all the way until it stops, and then pull the TV cable all the way out until it stops, and that is where the TV cable end- stop should connect to the geometry corrector bracket.
This setting will give you positive upshifts, quicker downshifts, and an overall more responsive AOD.
While you are at it, I would also STRONGLY recommend an auxiliary transmission cooler, as heat is what kills any automatic transmission.
That is an awesome way to set it up! Thanks man!
When you say auxillary cooler, do you mean a separate one from the existing cooler? I've not checked, but I do have some lines running to the front of my truck from the tranny that either go to the engine radiator, or a separate cooler.
That is how mine goes. Plan on cutting the line and adding high pressure hose for the external cooler. You can either flare the cuts or they make adapter that go on the line and have 3/8 barb ends. these are what I bought.
The auxiliary cooler isn't absolutely necessary, but it does help the transmission to stay cooler and live longer. This is especially important if you do any towing.
I went to my local wrecking yard a few years ago and got an auxiliary cooler and lines from a 1989 F150 with the AOD for $25. This will save you time and money over an aftermarket cooler that requires cutting, flaring, and zip ties. The Ford unit was a "stacked" cooler that bolted to the radiator core support in front of the radiator. The stock arrangement had one line from the transmission to the standard cooler inside the radiator, another line went from the cooler to the auxiliary cooler, and another from that cooler back to the transmission.
That is the standard transmission cooler. The auxiliary cooler isn't absolutely necessary, but it does help the transmission to stay cooler and live longer. This is important if you do any towing.
I went to my local wrecking yard a few years ago and got the auxiliary cooler and lines from a 1989 F150 with the AOD for $25. The Ford unit was a "stacked" cooler than mounted on the radiator core support in front of the radiator. The stock arrangement had one line from the transmission to the standard cooler inside the radiator, another line went from the cooler to the auxiliary cooler, and then from that cooler back to the transmission.
I was thinking about doing the same thing.. Or retrofitting another cooler in front of the radiator.
You also asked which carb I have. I recently changed from a Holley 4160 to a Summit 600cfm 4 barrel. It's pretty much like the Autolite 4100 you have or a Holley 4010 but with upgrades..
Any pics yet of how you have yours connected yet? I'm ordering the parts you listed above for my 85 f150 I just did a efi to carb swap on and have been looking everywhere for this info! Thanks guys
I'm going to attempt it without any pics as soon as the weather clears up. Maybe this weekend. If I do, I'll post some pics on how to do it. I'm pretty sure I understand how it should be mounted..
