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I have a 1992 f 350 7.3 idi. Got the truck with problems with glow plugs. I have no wait to start light. Glow plug relay just clicks when you turn on the key. New glow plugs, new controler, and a new glow plug harness. All fuses look good. I'm pretty much lost right now. Tested the gp relay and getting power to the constant and ignition side. Just have no power to the glow plugs at all. If someone can help and maybe post a few pics of what I'm supposed to be looking for that would help
Hi Texasthb. Like me you are a new user, and this is a large site. Im sure you will find answers for your dilemma at the top of the pre power stroke page under Read First. There is ahelluva lot of great info there. If then you can't find specifics after reading, reading, reading ask again. All the best.
Do you have power to the soleinod post that has the supply wires? Check for power on other large post side where the "z" shaped metal piece is with soleinoid engaged.
Hi Texas, did you ever solve your problem? I am having a similar problem, after replacing all new injectors, new glow plugs, new harness connectors, and about 2 weeks of flawless performance. Then, on a short trip, the wait to start light just flashes for a second, then the relay /delay starts clicking.. so replaced it, and have the same issue. Something else is causing the delay/relay to think that the glow plugs are hot, and are working like designed... ??
Hi Texas, did you ever solve your problem? I am having a similar problem, after replacing all new injectors, new glow plugs, new harness connectors, and about 2 weeks of flawless performance. Then, on a short trip, the wait to start light just flashes for a second, then the relay /delay starts clicking.. so replaced it, and have the same issue. Something else is causing the delay/relay to think that the glow plugs are hot, and are working like designed... ??
Baja
Make sure you don't have a dead or disconnected glow plug.
They seem to all be connected, and just fine... I will make a closer inspection a little later today,
This morning, while trying to solve the riddle, I let the controller 'Click' until it quit.. then, the solenoid must have gotten hot, and quit altogether. It would not even turn over, at all. This afternoon, it must have cooled off, as it started, right up, but with lots of clicking first. I did not let it click to death, but only waited for 7 or 8 clicks, then cranked the motor.. I am now figuring that one or two of the 'New' glow plugs is, or was fubar from the factory..
How do you test them? I looked under the FAQ above, and nothing came up..??
If the solenoid on the controller clicks, then it is working. I'm thinking that the controller part, below the solenoid, may be fubar, and it is a potted electrical part, totally unserviceable. The odds are way in favor of the controller being fubar from the factory, than a glow plug. Stands to reason.
They seem to all be connected, and just fine... I will make a closer inspection a little later today,
This morning, while trying to solve the riddle, I let the controller 'Click' until it quit.. then, the solenoid must have gotten hot, and quit altogether. It would not even turn over, at all. This afternoon, it must have cooled off, as it started, right up, but with lots of clicking first. I did not let it click to death, but only waited for 7 or 8 clicks, then cranked the motor.. I am now figuring that one or two of the 'New' glow plugs is, or was fubar from the factory..
How do you test them? I looked under the FAQ above, and nothing came up..??
Baja
You've got two problems:
1. Starter should not be affected by the GPs. If the GP system is totally broken, it will still crank(just not fire if cold).
2. GPs - to test them, the way I like to do it is take a piece of wire a couple feet long, strip both ends, hook one end to Battery +, and touch the other to each GP tip in turn.
If you get little sparks as it touches, your GP is good. If not, it's bad.
You'll see what I mean.
Note that there are other ways -- some people use a test light instead of the wire, or you could check resistance with a multimeter(should be down in the <10 ohm range IIRC), but the spark-test seems to work the best for me.
The 'non cranking' event, happened after I had tried to count the solenoid 'clicking' to discover if it was a solenoid, or controller problem. After 29 'clicks' it quit, and the engine would not crank at all... ?? I had an errand in the next town, like 16 miles, and when I got back 4 hours later, it cranked with no problems. I did not however, let it click itself to death. Just 6 or 7 clicks and then I cranked it. It turned over with gusto, cranked 5 or 6 seconds, and started right up... no problems.
I am thinking that the solenoid must have heated up, and not passed current to the starter circuit.?? It has to be in the system somewhere, or some electrical gremlin was involved?? Tricklicity has never been my strong suit. My theory is that smoke makes it work.. they put the smoke in at the factory, and if you let it out, you are done for. You cannot put the smoke back in. Could be a dilution thing??