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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 04:01 PM
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Advice on a trade

So I"ve been wanting a 7.3 for a long time and I found a guy interested in going in on a trade.. mine is the white truck, 2004 f250 5.4L 2wd single owner 215k miles been a great truck no problems... 2014 bed and tailgate
His truck is a 1999 (thinks its a late) with 253k.. I think I can get it for my truck + 3k cash.. do you guys think this is a good deal? He's asking 8600 for his truck, said hes only had it for 6 months and makes me suspicious if maybe it's got problems... it has new hubs, tie rod, sway bar. tires on it are pretty much worthless but oh well
also i've seen this truck on craigslist before (he probably bought it) but the guy told me it was on 12" of lift and double blocked in the rear and bla bla bla how he put so much money into making the suspension correct but i know this truck because I was thinking about buying it before and i recall it looking exactly the same as it does now.. not with 12" of lift but hey i dont know

What are some things i should look at? What should i be worried about going out soon on his truck with 250k miles? any input is appreciated and i hope im not breaking any rules !!!




 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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anyone? maybe i posted in the wrong section?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 09:58 AM
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This should be in the 99-03 7.3 forum. I'll see if I can get it moved for you. Judging by the fender badge on the 99, it's an Early 99, but I could be wrong. His price seems to be in line for that truck.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 10:02 AM
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moved to the 7.3.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 02:24 PM
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It is suspicious that he has put money into fixing it up and is now selling it. I have known people who just preferred the gas superdutys over the diesels. He may have realized he didn't like it. Or maybe he bought it low enough that he is still turning a small profit for what he's selling it for. Ask questions as to why he's selling it.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 02:33 PM
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Search this forum, plenty of threads about purchasing, what to look for, what wears out. Probably the biggest health question for a diesel is does it have good compression. Most everything else is replaceable/serviceable, but if that engine has been abused due to either poor air filtering or poor oil maintenance, a rebuild is neither cheap nor easy (for most of us).

There is a basic blow-by test, that can "suggest" the status of engine, done by turning the oil filler cap upside down on the filler neck while the engine is running. Youtube that and do it. Check the air filter. Whether factory style or aftermarket, is it clean? Turbo diesels consume massive amounts of air. Dirty air ruins the engine quickly.

At 250k, if injectors are factory, they're probably tired and may be ready for replacement. Not cheap. If the o-rings on the injectors are factory, they're ready to be replaced.

Does it start without smoke when cold? Does it start without extended cranking both when cold, and when warm? Does it smoke at all when warm at highway speed with the turbo spooled? You're in Florida, so check the oil pan for rust. Oil pan swaps aren't easy on these rigs. I'd even pull the air intake and check the turbo wheel fins for any damage (from dirty air). If I saw damage on the fins, I'd walk away - too strong a chance that permanent engine damage has already been done. Check the turbo shaft for any in/out or side to side play (turbo needs a rebuild).

The 7.3 is a beast. A bit lethargic from the factory, but capable of incredible things, both in power and longevity. But they're incredibly expensive, maintenance nightmares if any previous owner hasn't kept up with maintenance. Do your forum research. Don't be afraid to walk away - you don't want a diesel that hasn't been maintained.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 02:37 PM
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Check manufacture date on door sticker driver's side door jamb. There were different things changed at different dates on the e99. Look around under the hood and check anti-freeze bottle (AKA Degas bottle) for oil stains. Remove oil fill cap when running and place upside down on the opening to check for crankcase pressure (blow by) if the cap blows off not good, if it sits there and rattles off OK. If it's a FL truck it probably has no rust. Of course you want to test ride and check out the trans. Check trans fluid for burnt fluid odor. Put it in 4WD and drive it and listen for unusual noises. Those are some things I would do. Good luck there.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 04:25 PM
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thanks guys lots of great info.. he also said he replaced 4 injectors so im not too worried about them but he said his reason for selling is he wants to "downsize" yet trading for my 2wd f250 isnt much of a downsize, so I am susupicious if he is being honest about the money he put into it and still wants to get rid of it maybe there is something going wrong here, but who knows maybe just doesn't like a tall truck. well see.. also don't really want an e99 as the next truck i buy i am going to keep for probably 5-10 years so want a late 99-03... going to do some research on it and find out what it is
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 04:33 PM
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You can easily look at the spring area and see if there are new u-bolts and parts installed. Same with some of the other purported repairs. I wouldn't shy away from an e99, I got one after looking for quite a while for a truck and I have no regrets, there aren't that many differences between them. Besides they have the coveted forged piston rods in them.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
You can easily look at the spring area and see if there are new u-bolts and parts installed. Same with some of the other purported repairs. I wouldn't shy away from an e99, I got one after looking for quite a while for a truck and I have no regrets, there aren't that many differences between them. Besides they have the coveted forged piston rods in them.
Yes they do. And, should you need injectors, and want to stick with factory sticks, you can opt for the 140cc injectors in the late 99 and up 7.3's without any changes being necessary. The early 99's have 120cc injectors in them.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 07:02 PM
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Everyone above hit all the things to check, but also make sure to check the ball joints, make sure there's no creaking or popping on the frt end when turning.
They can be changed but it can pretty labor intensive.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by ZombiePopper
Everyone above hit all the things to check, but also make sure to check the ball joints, make sure there's no creaking or popping on the frt end when turning.
They can be changed but it can pretty labor intensive.
Good point. New tires is a way for a seller to hide something that caused uneven tire wear, such as bad ball joints and/or wheel bearings. I learned this after I bought my truck. I successfully replaced my ball joints with common hand tools in the driveway.... I won't do that again.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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a late 99 should have forged rods too though correct? until 01-02?
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 11:35 PM
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and as far as the price do yall think my truck + 3k is a fair deal?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2015 | 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by FL SuperDuty
and as far as the price do yall think my truck + 3k is a fair deal?
IMO that's a question only you can answer and there are a lot of variables. Like what you find needs repair when you start using it yourself. If both trucks are comparable I would say it's worth $3000 to upgrade to a diesel. But keep in mind it is an expensive truck to keep on the road both for fuel and repairs. Old vehicles need work.
 
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