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Old Jul 23, 2003 | 06:49 AM
  #1  
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F-150 Door Locks

I have a 99 F-150. Last spring, my dad and I tinted the windows ourselves. After we tinted the windows, the door locks have not worked properly. When I use the keyless entry or switch, I see hear the locks trying to work and a little movememt like there isn't enough power to push them up. I can use the switches on either door to lock only the passenger door, but not the driver door. On the driver door, I have to push the lock down. I spoke to a rep at the dealership and they seem to think it is the acutators. Is there anything else that it could be?

Thanks,

Chris
 
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Old Jul 25, 2003 | 12:37 PM
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F-150 Door Locks

You didn't reinstall the door panels properly, and they're binding the buttons. Spray them with Silicone Lubricant until you have time to reset the panels correctly.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2003 | 09:50 PM
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F-150 Door Locks

It could be binding buttons but the F150 and several other models had real cheap crap for actuators. Fortunately they arent real expensive as the older ones were. They have been redesigned recently and only time will tell if they hold up longer.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2003 | 06:33 AM
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F-150 Door Locks

I have taken the door panels off several times to do work on the truck and made sure they were set properly back into place. The way they are designed, they won't go back on right. The door panels are like a puzzle. It only fits together one way. I called my dealership where I live and they quoted me a price of about 39.00 for an actuator. I figured that I would pay about the same price if I ordered online and paid shipping.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2003 | 06:50 AM
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F-150 Door Locks

I would agree. They are a lot less expensive than some of the older ones that I recall being almost 100.00 each at the dealer. They are a little tricky to install but you can do it. Once you do one they are easy to figure out from then on out. This style clips onto the latch itself rather than remotely mounted. Just carefully remove the pigtail wire, remove the retaining bolt to the window run that sits in front of it and tilt the run out of your way to get more room for your hand to fit in. I then take a #2 flat tip and pop it out. If you look at the door latch from the outside there is a thin slot at the bottom of the latch opening about 2 inches long. Near the interior edge you will see the lock tab of the actuator. Insert the screwdriver into that slot and against the actuator lock tab and pop the end of the screw driver with your other hand or a rubber mallet. The actuator slides on and off two lips on the latch. You want to force it toward the outer skin of the door. The actuator will pop off the latch using this method. May take you a couple good pops and off she will come. Then remove the actuator, disconnect the wiring loom retainer and install the new actuator by aligning the two grooves of the actuator to the two lips on the latch. Ensure BOTH are catching and sliding straight on and that the actuating arm slides into the control rod. Ensure it is fully seated and pull the lock rod up and down to besure it is moving smoothly and the actuator is fully and properly seated. Reinstall the wiring pigtail and test operation with the switch remotely mounted. If she works good and smooth then reinstall the retainer bolt on the window run and reinstall door panel. Make sure the window run is properly locked back into place at the top where there is a tab on the other part of the run which slide locks into the upper portion of the window frame. Work the window up and down to ensure it works smoothly.

Repeat for the other door and you have it made. I can do these in around 15-20 minutes average.
 

Last edited by HomerWinzlow; Jul 28, 2003 at 06:55 AM.
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