I recently replaced all of my brake pads with yellow stuff and they seem to be squeaking a lot. I also noticed when I am driving and I stop and let off of the brakes they don't release immediately so has anyone else had this issue and could it be this is the cause of the squeaks or do these brake pads just squeak like crazy? I read somewhere it could possibly be the brake lines but I don't see how this could be the cause for so much squeaking. my truck is a 2011 F 250 diesel crew cab

 

Did you put the anti squeak stuff on the back of the brake shoes? Also Did you put any grease on the pins that the calipers slide on? Now I dont know if the shoes just drop in or you have to remove the caliper to install the pads. Did you turn the disks. You need to do that every time you replace the shoes. Also don't just squeeze the pistons back into the caliper. You need to open the bleeder screw on the caliper and allow the fluid to come out there. then add fluid to the reservoir. I have been told that forcing fluid back through the anti-brake system can damage the system.

 

To 6.2's point,
It sounds like the calipers might be stuck if you didn't bleed them properly when compressing.
I'd go back a re-bleed the brakes again and retest.
I always use a silicone grease on my pad ends and or clips when changing pads.
I don't necessarily agree with having turn the rotors each time you replace the pads.
If warped or too thin, then replace.

 

When you did said brake job did you support the calipers or let them dangle from the hoses?
If the latter is true you likely have an internally collapsed soft line which is acting like a one way valve not allowing the fluid to return to the system after you let off the pedal. If you did support them and one unexpectedly fell the same results can happen. Replace the questionable line and bleed the system. I usually do the lines in pairs.
If everything was properly installed (anti squeal clips) cleaned and lubricated (slider pins AND caliper rest pads on the mount brackets) then Id be looking for a frozen caliper piston. Look for the rotor that looks glazed or hot. Feel for the hot rotor. Or get an infrared thermometer on the rotors to locate the over heated assembly.
Do it now so you don't ruin the new parts.

 

When I changed the pads I did support the calipers. The 2 second delay when I let off the pedal was actually happening about 2 months ago before I changed the pads. Do you know of place to buy a 5 piece set of stainless steel brake lines? Also the caliper pins felt like they had plenty of grease and moved freely and the boots were not leaking any grease and where still forming a tight seal.

 

Seems that you need anti squeak grease on back of brake pads.
On thees trucks slight hesitation on full stop might be cost by hill assist(brakes feel like sticking for sec. or two).

 

So do I need to put grease on the back of the pads where the pistons touch? I changed pads on my old titan several times and never put grease there and never had squeaks, I also never turned the rotors.
Also the pads I took off my f250 didn't have grease onto the back of the pads so I didn't apply any there but if it helps then I'll do it.
I am going to try and get a 5 piece stainless steel brake cable kit but can't find any online. Any suggestions?

 

After re-reading your original post heres what Id recommend. Verify that you do not have a caliper piston hanging up. Two person job. Jack it up put it on stands rated for the weight. Someone in the cab applies the brakes with the engine running. The other person trys to rotate each wheel as soon as the break pedal is released. Vehicles is in neutral through this test. The sticking caliper will show its self. Or it could still have a collapsed rubber line? You could try the line first as its cheaper. Then if that side is still hanging up then go at the caliper. I usually just purchase everything and take back what I dont use.
Next...Get the rotors turned (or replaced). While the brakes are apart pull the pads again and knock off the edges with a sanding disc or a file. Then scuff the face of the pads with 100 grit sand paper. Sounds to me like you have glazed rotors and now glazed pads. The squeak is generally generated from the "square" pad contacting the square rotor face. This creates a chatter on the rotor when the brakes are applied. We hear this chatter as a harmonic or squeak/squeal. Knocking off the square edges of the pad and de-glazing generally fixes the problem for a while as long as a caliper isnt hanging up. You may have pads that are just inherently squeaky by the nature of the material they are composed of? Not to offend...but the grease applied to the back side of the pads wont help IMO. The pads should not be lose. If the springs aren't holding them away from the rotor they can rattle and squeak but this usually shows up when the brake pedal isn't applied and you're just driving. Same for a hanging caliper or a collapsed hose. You'll hear it when the pedal is not applied. But then due to the non-retraction it will develop a squeak in both applied and not applied pedal scenarios. Follow?
Try Summit of Jegs for leads on the braided lines. The OE rubber lines are OK as well.