Ford 77 stuck rotor help?
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Ford 77 stuck rotor help?
Hey guys, you have been a huge help getting me going on getting my dad's ford 77 f250 truck up and running. The problem now is the timing is about a half inch off (timing light used) and the rotor is COMPLETELY stuck.
I've put over a weeks worth of bust rust on the rotor, and tried channel locks, trying prying upwards, and nothing.
What's going to be the best way to get this thing off or loose to adjust the timing? Can I actually pry upwards? Should I try something else?
Thanks for any help.
I've put over a weeks worth of bust rust on the rotor, and tried channel locks, trying prying upwards, and nothing.
What's going to be the best way to get this thing off or loose to adjust the timing? Can I actually pry upwards? Should I try something else?
Thanks for any help.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 14,325
Likes: 14
From: Island Southeast Alaska
Try a pry bar and yes pry up. But work from side to side
and get it to rock a bit. Rust is not your friend here. I have
had to break them and use heat to remove some. Also as a lube
like panther **** stuff I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.
But you would have to pull the dizzy to get t to run down inside
for any kind of panther **** to work. It don't run up hill well.
and get it to rock a bit. Rust is not your friend here. I have
had to break them and use heat to remove some. Also as a lube
like panther **** stuff I use a 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF.
But you would have to pull the dizzy to get t to run down inside
for any kind of panther **** to work. It don't run up hill well.
Moderator & parts slinger
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 50,188
Likes: 5,792
From: S/W Missouri, Polk county
It is not really a rotor, but more a stuck distributor. A rotor implies a wheel brake rotor....
Anyway yes try the 50/50 from above then PB blaster and maybe "Freeze off". If a small pipe wrench will not fit, then try a sink/faucet basin handle lock nut wrench. Careful prying or beating on it, it can break.
Then....you have to drop the pan and tap from below...Once you get it, take it all the way out clean up the area and come reinstall time use some anti-seize compound.
Good luck.
Anyway yes try the 50/50 from above then PB blaster and maybe "Freeze off". If a small pipe wrench will not fit, then try a sink/faucet basin handle lock nut wrench. Careful prying or beating on it, it can break.
Then....you have to drop the pan and tap from below...Once you get it, take it all the way out clean up the area and come reinstall time use some anti-seize compound.
Good luck.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 862
Likes: 7
From: like subarctic, brrr man!
Break the rotor (as in cap and rotor)! should be cheap and easy to aquire new.
If it's the signal wheel under it, then... uhm... I donno...
Brake Rotors, use a large Variable Swing Press! and replace wheel studs...
Distributor? pry carefully between it and block, maybe a strap wrench to twist it... or use the BFH (Variable Swing Press used for brake Rotors) and aquire a new or junkyard one...
I'm not really nice when I'm working on my junk, so you may want to listen to the guys above
Edit: maybe post some pictures to see what your talking about? I like using http://imgur.com myself...
If it's the signal wheel under it, then... uhm... I donno...
Brake Rotors, use a large Variable Swing Press! and replace wheel studs...
Distributor? pry carefully between it and block, maybe a strap wrench to twist it... or use the BFH (Variable Swing Press used for brake Rotors) and aquire a new or junkyard one...
I'm not really nice when I'm working on my junk, so you may want to listen to the guys above
Edit: maybe post some pictures to see what your talking about? I like using http://imgur.com myself...
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 475
Likes: 34
From: Vermont
I have conquered a couple of rotors in the past by "splitting" them where they fit over the distributor shaft. A paper towel or rag for debris under the rotor and then a die grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the side of the rotor.Make a cut that does not go all the way to the steel shaft,insert a screwdriver in the cut slot and twist sideways with the screwdriver. It should pop open & break(separate) the binding parts ( cut a slot on both sides if needed). No die grinder? Same process with a hand held hacksaw blade. I don't know if there is enough up and down room for a full fledged hacksaw.Cut vertically up and down until you have relieved the pressure or can break the bottom of the rotor away from the shaft. Use a little caution & there will be no damage to anything aside from the actual rotor. Good luck! Gary
Trending Topics
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2014
Posts: 1,626
Likes: 78
From: NE Texas
Dremel tool with a min-cutoff wheel. Otherwise, follow vtpkrat2's method. Dremel is a lot easier to control and is smaller.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
dionysius
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
13
Jun 17, 2007 02:43 PM
dionysius
FE & FT Big Block V8 (332, 352, 360, 390, 406, 410, 427, 428)
14
Jun 17, 2007 09:29 AM
MetallicaFan39
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
Nov 1, 2005 09:53 PM