I'm interested in your tips and techniques in how to best manage the towing features and capabilities of the F-series trucks. I've scoured the owner's manual and it outlines the basics, but I want to know the how's and why's of what maximizes the vehicle's capabilities.


For instance, differentiate between the TH (tow/haul) mode and use of the gear manual/lock-out with SelectShift. Which one is used under what circumstances?


What transmission temperatures should be targeted, and what techniques to keep within them are recommended?


Any tips, techniques or recommendations are appreciated - towing at high speed (interstate), hills, in traffic, etc. Likewise, any methods to be avoided are equally welcome. Tell me what's worked for you and what hasn't .


BTW, I have a 2015 F-250 4x4 Crew Cab Platinum SB (20" wheels) w/ 3.73 rear end and 6.2L engine. My heaviest trailer is a 16' beavertail 2-axle (one w/ electric brakes) toting a Kubota tractor grossing out at about 7500#.

 

Best tip I ever got, and the first one I'll give you, is to spend some time at your nearest CAT scale and set up your trailer (and load) correctly.
Doesn't apply to your rig, but for all those guys pulling bumper-pull type travel trailers, it can take a while to get the WD hitch set up the first time, but it's worth the effort.

 

I agree to get the truck to the scales empty. Load it like you roll with a full tank of fuel.


at the cat scales they will give you to Gross but also each axle. Rather important for the rear since your rear will carry the weight of the trailer in the form of tongue weight.


No big deal for what you have indicated but things grow over time.


Tow/haul changes the shift points to stop gear hunting. It also provides engine braking when you apply the brakes. It will downshift and keep the torgue converter locked longer to apply the braking effect. Helps you slow down and save your brakes.


Using the M mode you can change the gears yourself both accelerating or slowing down, again the same as tow/haul but with even more control.


You will have to try it both ways and see what you prefer. My guess is tow/haul will be just fine with only a 7500 lb load.

 

Just a note about the tow/haul mode and engine braking. Lots of people are surprised about this behaviour the first few times. I'll admit, I was one of them. Just remember, if it's doing something "funny" down a hill, holding you back, that's probably working just right. Try it with and without the tow/haul mode and you will get the hang of it.
I don't bother manually shifting mine, haven't seen the need.

 

When I was in business I pulled a few trailers so I got real good at loading them. With your tractor I would load it on the trailer and drive it ahead until the back of the truck starts to go down, secure it and mark the location then take it for a drive and see how it handles. If your trailer wants to fish tail move the tractor ahead to get more tongue weight, if you get a lot of bouncing or jerking in the truck you may have to much tongue weight and you may have to move the trailer back. After you get it balanced mark the spot so you can load it the same every time, I had some bolts mounted on my trencher trailer so I could hook the blade to it when it was loaded on to the trailer, but there were times I had to move it back if I loaded a lot of wire on the front of the trailer.

Using Tow Haul is a personal preference, I like it in town because of the transmission braking but I don't like it on the hwy because it holds gears to long killing gas mileage. On hills and long grades I use the manual mode some times but not always.

At hwy speeds I run between 55 and 65 depending on road conditions, in your case I would figure out just how good your trailer brakes are before running any high speeds but also get used to the setup before you do any long hauls.

Denny

 

Just between you and I, with only one axle with brakes, I suspect your axles are only rated for 3500 lb each. If that is the case, a 7500 lb tractor is a lot for that trailer. You may want to check that out before undertaking any long trips, . Short haul, around town, slow speeds,etc. you are probably ok. You also want to check the load rating of your tires to make sure they are up to the task. The load you are describing is about maxing out a 5 ton trailer (2 5000 lb axles) because you have to compute the weight of the trailer as well as the weight of the load. Good luck! And the best to you and yours!

 

You're absolutely correct in your computations. The trailer is rated at 3 1/2 tons and the tires are appropriate. The trailer weighs about 1700# and the tractor with heaviest implement goes about 5500#, so I may be over by about 200# give or take. I'm considering a slightly longer trailer with more capacity, so I chose an estimate of 7500# for purposes of discussion. Perhaps I could have worded it more clearly in my original post.


Thanks to all for the good input, and keep it coming whether it may apply to my specific situation or not.

 

You will probably be OK. I dont know if you are someplace where DOT watches pickups and trailers pretty close or not. That could be one issue. Then just make sure your tires are up to the task. Pesonally, I like to have more tire than necessary, just because. Good luck!

 

Lots of discussion here with the Tow/Haul feature. Probably the most of any topic with Super Duty's.

My Ford manual suggests using the T/H mode because the tranny stays cooler when hauling loads.

Lots of other reasons to use or not use but I thinks this one's pretty important.

 

I've run both ways and I couldn't tell the difference in temp.

Denny

 

I haul a much heavier load than you, but I will interject one thing. I use the manual much more in flat/hilly area's, like South Dakota, where you drive a flat road for many miles then get a long climb. Generally I drive with cruise control on, and I will lock out 6th (drop to 5th) just before climbing the long hill.


I do this because if I let it go, it will slow down 5 mph before dropping gears then slam down to 4th and accelerating to try and get back to set speed, which it easily does, but just killing my mileage. Dropping out 6th, gets it into a good running 5th that will climb easily and not hurt mileage nearly as much. Plus it's a lot less intrusive.


YMMV

 

I will offer my observations. I tow a 2013 Dutchmen Voltage with a CAT scale verified weight of 18,500 in it's full timing configuration. The CAT scale is your friend, and has allowed me to find good weight distribution for loading depending on what the adventure is (water for boondocking, bikes loaded or not, fuel for toys or gen tank, short or long trip, etc.). I use the T/H mode when towing the toyhauler for the VGT turbo brake (requires high rpm to feel), grade braking, and torque converter lock-up. It is seemless in it's integration by design, and I have found when coupled with the cruise control I don't need too much brain power to safely move down the road. This allows me to focus on where I'm going, and who I'm sharing the road with. Given what little respect most cars give to almost 30,000lbs headed down the road, this reserve of mental agility is most appreciated. I never use the manual mode, but have started using the selective range option by locking out a gear when I see the hill vs waiting for the cruise control to notice the speed decrease. I usually only do this if the hill in question appears pretty steep, as this 6.7 powerstroke shrugs off most modest hills with just a bit of additional boost. My trans temp hovers around 200 degrees when towing heavy, and the highest I've seen in the mountains in summer time has been 215. Hope this helps.

 

One more piece of advice... When hooking up, inspecting, and disconnecting, etc, do everything yourself.
Don't allow others to help or even interrupt with conversation during these periods.
How many times have we seen others "help", just to find out, something wasn't hooked up, tightened, latched properly. We assume others know How to hook things up the "right way."
Only to find out a bit later that you survived a potential disaster.
I politely ask anyone wanting to help that I'd rather do it myself.
I also walk away when someone else is setting up their rig, just to avoid that interruption.

 

Oh yeah!!!! The first time I hauled our new and quite a bit longer 5er into our usual CG, I got some 'help' from one of our neighbors. I found other things to do while he was there, stalling my final positioning. Once he figured out the hint, he left. I don't have a back up camera yet and only let my wife scream if I'm about to back over something. I've had other experiences of helpful neighbors, but that's the latest.

The suggestions above are very good - and a couple I'll consider with the T/H and M on the shifter. I seldom use T/H as the down slamming shift is not something I'm happy with plus that turbo and maybe too many revs.

 

Great advice. Years ago the only near tragedy I had was a boat trailer that popped off because it was not latched. The safety chains had been done right and combined with my experience hauling trailers, disaster was avoided. The boat's owner had hooked it up himself and after that I never trusted another to connect.

Always be methodical when connecting. One of the things I do is always connect the lights last so a glance in the mirror can confirm all should be well.