This morning was a nightmare.

-21 degrees out (or maybe colder), trying to get my daily driver started. Cranks over twice and it's dead. Needed to jump it using the truck.

Driver door frozen shut. Tried with all my strength and couldn't budge it. Got in through the passenger door and slid across the bench seat. Gear shift frozen in Reverse. Finally got it to move into Neutral.

Key in and ignition would barely turn forward, like it was frozen too. Engine turned over a few times and finally fired. Let the clutch out (still in Neutral) then the truck stalled.

Clutch in, then attempt no. 2 to start. Turn frozen ignition, starter goes, engine fires, then the ignition snaps off. It turns freely 360 degrees forward and backward.

Fought with the frozen hood for 3-5 mins then finally got the Kia jump started

Then I couldn't shut the truck off. Unhooked the battery - but the crazy truck stays on with no battery!! So the only way to shut off the truck was to back it into the snow bank until it stalled.

So now it's stuck there until spring and I can't even start it.

After all that, what do I need to do to replace (or even bypass?) the ignition. I suppose that means I'll have to get new keys cut and everything too. Can I even buy such a part?

 

Here's a link that may help. I had to take the ignition cylinder out years ago without knowing how. These are the answers that helped me.

You can buy a new one from LMC truck, but I don't know if they have matching door locks so you still only need one key for everything.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...n-removal.html

 

Ok, so I couldn't figure out the LMC truck website but I found the part on Rock Auto.

This is the part I will need to replace? Not at all as expensive as I was expecting.




So it's just that simple? No security systems, electronic lockout, etc to worry about?

 

Keep in mind that my truck is a '96. I don't know what year yours is, but looking at the image you posted, I would assume yours is older and therefore. may have a different way to remove it. The little "button" on the lower left hand side of the picture you posted is what needs to be pushed in to get the cylinder out. It's spring loaded.

Post what year you have and maybe someone will chime in and give you the correct answer.

 

It's the truck in my sig ('87). Thanks for the advice so far. Maybe this won't be as bad as I was anticipating?

 

They usually aren't to bad to change out. There's a small hole in the column on the lower leftbside that you poke something like a thick paper clip or a small drill bit into. While the key is inserted. I did have a little trouble with one once that rotated as you described, but it ended up coming out ok. For future reference if you find yourself unable to shut your truck off, there is a switch under the dash on,the firewall with a red button you can pop out with a small screwdriver that shuts off fuel.

 

So for the older ones like mine, the steering wheel needs to come off? I do already have a steering wheel puller so this shouldn't be a problem.

In that case, I have to replace the blinker switch assembly also (right turn signal won't stay hooked) so I may as well do both of these jobs at the same time.

The truck does have tilt steering. I wonder if I broke the interlock lever thing like this guy did:

Part 1: Part 2:

 

For future reference any one of these will shut the engine down...

Disconnect ICM
Disconnect PIP harness at distributor
Disconnect primary side of coil
Remove fuel pump or PCM fuse (take your pick!)
Trip fuel pump inertia switch (whack it with a screwdriver handle)
Shove a rag down the intake duct
Shoot engine with .50 BMG
Push truck into a lake

The last two might require some repairs and/or parts replacement afterwards

Glad you got your DD started. Good 'ol Ford managed to fire up at least.
Ford 1
Riceburner 0

 

My thoughts exactly. They must not have winter in Korea because when the temp gets below 10 or so, all kinds of quirky things start to happen to that car. Also, it just refuses to crank over more than 1-2 times and usually has to be jumped. That part of my morning is par for the course, but breaking the truck certainly wasn't expected. Her G5 was a little stiff today too, but not bad enough that it wouldn't start.

If the truck had working taillights and brake lights at the moment, I would have just driven it to work today instead of fighting with the car.

 

Thanks for all the different ways to shut off the truck in case of emergency. I figured disconnecting the battery would confuse the computer enough to kill it (works for the Kia).

 

The piece in that video is the ignition actuator not the ignition switch.
I am pretty sure you broke the switch not the actuator because you said it turns a full 360*.


To remove the ignition switch you have to put it in a certain position and use a thin nail or similar to push the pin which will release it and it slides right out.


Also I am not sure if that is the video where he cuts the ignition actuator but if it is I highly recommend not doing that.
Trav

 

Yeah, he cuts something off in that video to avoid taking things apart further.


Alright - so, in summary:

I can replace the ignition switch (Ignition Lock Cylinder) simply by moving the key to a certain position and pushing the "button" up with a small tool, then pulling the assembly out. Installation reverse of removal.

I do not have to remove the steering wheel unless I also broke the ignition actuator.

 

correct.
For installation it will just slide right in you will probably here the button pop into the hole and you are done.


It is fairly easy to replace the ignition switch (especially when you have done it as many times as me). Ignition actuator well that is a completely different story and I have done it twice. Part of the reason I dread tilt column and all but the truck in my sig has tilt.
Trav

 

Cool.

I ordered the Motorcraft ignition lock cylinder from Rock Auto this morning so I'll check back in once I get it installed. Until then I guess I'll be relying on a neighbor to give me a jump if the G5 isn't around.

 

No he broke the ignition lock cylinder. The switch is further down the column at the end of the ignition actuator rod, which is actuated by the ignition lock cylinder.

Ignition lock cylinder > ignition actuator rod > ignition switch.

If either the switch or actuator rod was broken then I don't see any way for the lock cylinder to spin 360 degrees.

I'd like to have a word with whoever invented this retarded setup. What was ever so wrong with having a plain KEY SWITCH right there in the dash!? Can't be for theft prevention... this newer setup is easier to break than the old stuff!