Hi,
I have tried a few options to improve the steering on my '49 F1, but the truck still wanders quite badly, bording on uncontrollably. I have replaced the following:
Front Leaf Spring bolts
King Pins
Front Disc brakes and therefore wheel bearings
Drag Link (internals)
Pitman Arm

I had the steering box rebuild by a specialist here in the UK, who said the steering shaft worm gear was damaged, I sourced a replace from Macs auto parts. He then in theory replaced this. However with the box bolted to the chassis and the pitman arm blocked by clamps on the chassis I can still rotate the steering wheel approximately 3-4 inches. Since this is by far the oldest vehicle and also the only one I have driven I don't know what to expect, however I have to assume I should not be fighting to constantly correct the direction of the truck on a straight road.

The steering box rebuilder said the box is fully adjusted, however I am concerned by the amount of play in it. Should I be or is this normal?

I found this advert on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-F1-F-1-Steering-Box-Column-48-49-50-51-52-Rebuilt-New-Restored-100-Hot-Rod-/321171106471?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac74a2aa7&vxp=mtr
I'm slightly reluctant to go with this option since I've already spent money on the worm gear ($60) and rebuilder labour ($150). Spending another $550 I feel would mean the $210 is wasted and also being in the UK, I'd need to bring the box and shaft over to the US and back next time I visit as shipping is very expensive. That been said has anyone used this guy on eBay and would you recommend this as my best route forward?

I keep an eye out for replacement steering boxes and shaft on eBay and the forum, but an worried I might be buying one that needs rebuilding. Does anyone have a good one they are willing to sell? I appreciate these are quite sort after parts.

As always any advise or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Richard

 

When I first got my 1951 F1, the steering was awful with 4" of play. Going down the road I was constantly steering back and forth to keep it in a straight line. I purchased this kit off of ebay and installed it myself and wow...what a difference it made. I was like a new truck. I then added radial tires and it was even better.


You said you had replaced the steering worm gear, but how about the sector shaft gear that mates with the worm gear? Has it been replaced also?


Scott in Texas


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1948-49-50-51-52-F-1-Ford-Truck-Manaual-steering-box-overhaul-rebuild-kit-/261774062485?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cf2f33395&vxp=mtr

 

They aren't as tight as modern rigs. 3-4" sounds acceptable given the pitman arm probably moves some even tho it's clamped down.

I run radials on my half-ton 48 and recommend them for a daily driver. Avon LT215-85-16's in either 8 or 10 ply rating. Stiff ride but the sidewall stands up like a bias-ply and looks more like oem.

edit after reading Scott's note: I agree - if the worm needed replacing, the sector gear should have been replaced. If one is worn the other matches it in my experience.

 

A stock steering box in good condition should have no play between the steering wheel and the pitman arm in the straight ahead position. Note, I said straight ahead position. It will have some play any other place. Do you have the skills and tools to disassemble and re assemble the box? It is not that complicated.
Edit: Another option would be to take the box back to the person who charged you to work on it and tell him it is unacceptable, Not right. Or, is the steering geometry of your truck wrong so the box is not in the center position when installed?

 

Hi Scott, that sounds very similar to the issue I am having. How difficult was this kit to install, does it come with instructions for a amateur mechanic, did it require any specialist tools?

The rebuilder did not say it needed a new sector shaft, but the problem is I never saw it stripped down. However I don't have a lot of faith in the expertise of the rebuilder.

Thanks

Richard

 

Hi Raytasch,

Mine is the opposite, if anything when turning it seems more under control than going straight.
I spoke to the rebuilder and his response was the steering box was fine when he had finished and fully adjusted, and claimed the issue was probably the other steering components. I now don't have much faith in his abilities.

I'm a reasonably capable DIY mechanic having done most of the other work on my truck myself. Does the steering box rebuild require any specialise tools, such as presses or pullers?

When re-attaching the box, before connecting the pitman arm, I rotated the steering wheel all the way one way, then all the way the other way counting the number of rotations. I then halved that and rotated it back, assuming that was center. Then with the wheels straight I attached the pitman arm.

I have not had the steering geometry checked by a shop, only done it using a measure from point on thread to equal point in thread on the other side on the front and back of the tyre.

Thanks

Richard

 

Thanks mtflat,

I'm tempted to get the kit Scott suggested and have a go at replacing the sector shaft as well.

I should have mentioned I also replaced the tie rods, the tube between the tie rods (as this was bent) and have radial tires (215-75-15) on the truck as well as the aftermarket wheels it came with.

Thanks

Richard

 

Next question would be; were the wheels pointed straight ahead when you installed the pitman arm? Can you pull the drag link loose at the pitman arm and determine that there is no slop in the straight ahead position of the steering wheel?

Edit: Are you running caster wedges? How much toe in?

 

Visually yes.

I'll give that a try this evening, but I don't believe there is slop in the drag link or further forward.

When I removed the front axle there was a single wedge, I put this back in when replacing the axle.

I can't remember how much toe in I set now, I remember looking on the forum when I did it, but it was awhile back now, what would you recommend?

Thanks

Richard

 

I have a steering box I took out of my 52 and I never had that much play. I put in a Mustang front set up and I saved the box. It's in very good condition. PM if you want it, I have no use for it other than to help someone who needs one. Shipping to the UK , I have not idea how much that would be.

 

Just a thought, but did you have anyone wiggle the steering wheel and see where the movement is from. This may help you I resolving your issues. I've seen loose steering boxes do this as well as Tie Rods flexing. Tightening your steering gear to frame bolts & installing a heavy duty Tie Rod and most of your wandering may stop. Another thing is your alingment, have you had it checked? You may require caster shims to help stop your trucks wandering characteristics.

 

I agree...have someone move the steering wheel back and forth while you watch the steering components for movement.....
Also check the box to frame bolts....mine came loose once.

 

Hi bjmayberry2,

I got my girlfriend to move the steering wheel whilst I watch the pitman arm, she could rotate it about 4" before I saw any affect on the pitman arm.

I'll double check the steering gear bolts but I did replace these when the box was rebuilt and reinstalled, I believe these are done up tight.

Could you or anyone else tell me the torque setting for the castle nuts on the tie rods?

I think it will make sense to get the alignment done by a shop with the proper equipments. Does anyone know the optimum settings for the alignment of a F-1?

With the castor shim, when re-installing the axle I re-used the shim that came out. The thinner end of the shim was at the front with the thicker end closer to the cab. I assume that is correct?

I should mentioned the truck has a 351W and FMX trans, in case that makes a different in terms to weight at the front end.

Thanks

Richard

 

Richard,
Did you try to take the slack out of the steering gear? There should be a nut and slotted stud on the box. The nut is a jam nut to keep the slotted stud from backing out. Center the steering gear. (Turn all the way one direction then count the turns to the completely turn it to the other direction, then divide the turns in half.) Put the front tires straight ahead and Loosen the steering gear adjustment nut and with a common screw driver tighten the stud. You should see the slack in the steering wheel change, DO NOT tighten the stud tight. You should have a very small amount of play in the steering wheel. Lock the jam nut down tight and rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop and make sure there is no binding between stops. If there is no binding, take your truck out for a test drive. Make sure the truck recovers from a turn when the wheel is released.
I'm sure there is a torque (probably around 25-30 foot pounds) for the tie rod end nuts but I tighten them down snug then tighten them to allow a cotter key to be installed (never loosen them to align the cotter key).
FYI If you take the truck to get it aligned ask them if they adjust Camber. If they say yes ask if they hot bend or cold bend the axles to accomplish the adjustment. Cold bending is the BEST because heating the axle causes it to loose some of its strength. Caster is adjusted with axle to spring shims and TOE is adjusted by rotating the Tie Rod.
Good Luck.

 

IMO, whomever made the adjustment on the box did it wrong.
Start with the end play in the worm shaft, the long shaft that runs to the steering wheel. That is what all those shims in the kit are used for. NO end play in the worm shaft. You want a slight drag. If this adjustment is not right, nothing will be right in the box.
Get the end play, drag on the worm gear right and then adjust the sector for zero play in the straight ahead position.
Edit, I think it is possible to assemble the box with the sector out of time, one way too far.