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I can recommend "Nervous" Bob Frosch in Suffolk to rebuild your steering box correctly. I don't have his contact details to hand, but anyone on any of the UK rodding websites (NSRA, Rods-n-Sods, Meltdown, etc) will have his details. If no luck, PM me and I'll dig for them and find them for you.
The shims are put in so they tip the top of the axle (or spindle) back to increase caster. one shim each side is about right for OEM springs, two each side for softened/dropped springs. 1/8" total toe in (front of the tires closer together than rear of the tires is good. I wrote a post on how to make toe plates, align front end a while back. An advanced search on "toe in" and/or "toe plates" and my user name on this forum should find it PM me if you can't find it and I'll see if I can locate it or rewrite it. The beam axle is easy to align at home, most modern alignment shops have no idea how to do it. The camber should not need adjusting unless the truck was in an accident or you bought one of those welded tubular dropped axles (or one done by a hack). 4" of free play at the steering wheel rim is way too much. A freshly rebuilt and properly adjusted box should have 0 to < 1"
I'm jumping into this because I posted on this thread that I had a steering box I would sell him and to PM me which he did. I think he wants it and I took some photos of it and couldn't post them on the PM message system. So I'm posting them he for all to see so you all can help him decide if it's worth it. It's in very good condition. I took it apart as far as hand tools would take me, cleaned what I could, re grease and pressed back into service. Worked fine for about a year, then I decided to take the plunge and but in an IFS. It's tight with hardly any play. It's been sitting in my shop since 1997 appox. when I did the change. I just want him to get a good box. If there's something obvious wrong with it speak up on this thread. Thanks guys
The rebuilder said:
"The box was adjusted to a setting that was felt to be acceptable. It would not have left us if we weren't happy with it, bearing in mind that due to their design, steering boxes naturally have a degree of play in them."
Therefore I have not tried to adjust it. However I'm not convinced by the quality of his work and therefore it could still be a small adjustment is all that is required. Since I have concerns about the quality of the work done on this box I taken ZOOT up on his kind offer to sell me a box he has.
Thanks for the advice on the torque settings for the tie rod castle nuts. I'll check these at the weekend.
Thanks Richard
Originally Posted by bjmayberry2
Richard,
Did you try to take the slack out of the steering gear? There should be a nut and slotted stud on the box. The nut is a jam nut to keep the slotted stud from backing out. Center the steering gear. (Turn all the way one direction then count the turns to the completely turn it to the other direction, then divide the turns in half.) Put the front tires straight ahead and Loosen the steering gear adjustment nut and with a common screw driver tighten the stud. You should see the slack in the steering wheel change, DO NOT tighten the stud tight. You should have a very small amount of play in the steering wheel. Lock the jam nut down tight and rotate the steering wheel from stop to stop and make sure there is no binding between stops. If there is no binding, take your truck out for a test drive. Make sure the truck recovers from a turn when the wheel is released.
I'm sure there is a torque (probably around 25-30 foot pounds) for the tie rod end nuts but I tighten them down snug then tighten them to allow a cotter key to be installed (never loosen them to align the cotter key).
FYI If you take the truck to get it aligned ask them if they adjust Camber. If they say yes ask if they hot bend or cold bend the axles to accomplish the adjustment. Cold bending is the BEST because heating the axle causes it to loose some of its strength. Caster is adjusted with axle to spring shims and TOE is adjusted by rotating the Tie Rod.
Good Luck.
Thanks AXracer for the advice below, I have also found your post you mentioned so I'll take a read of that as well.
Thanks Richard
Originally Posted by AXracer
The shims are put in so they tip the top of the axle (or spindle) back to increase caster. one shim each side is about right for OEM springs, two each side for softened/dropped springs. 1/8" total toe in (front of the tires closer together than rear of the tires is good. I wrote a post on how to make toe plates, align front end a while back. An advanced search on "toe in" and/or "toe plates" and my user name on this forum should find it PM me if you can't find it and I'll see if I can locate it or rewrite it. The beam axle is easy to align at home, most modern alignment shops have no idea how to do it. The camber should not need adjusting unless the truck was in an accident or you bought one of those welded tubular dropped axles (or one done by a hack). 4" of free play at the steering wheel rim is way too much. A freshly rebuilt and properly adjusted box should have 0 to < 1"
Thanks for the contact, I'll PM you if I can't find Bob's contact details.
Thanks Richard
Originally Posted by Flat Ernie
I can recommend "Nervous" Bob Frosch in Suffolk to rebuild your steering box correctly. I don't have his contact details to hand, but anyone on any of the UK rodding websites (NSRA, Rods-n-Sods, Meltdown, etc) will have his details. If no luck, PM me and I'll dig for them and find them for you.
I'm jumping into this because I posted on this thread that I had a steering box I would sell him and to PM me which he did. I think he wants it and I took some photos of it and couldn't post them on the PM message system. So I'm posting them he for all to see so you all can help him decide if it's worth it. It's in very good condition. I took it apart as far as hand tools would take me, cleaned what I could, re grease and pressed back into service. Worked fine for about a year, then I decided to take the plunge and but in an IFS. It's tight with hardly any play. It's been sitting in my shop since 1997 appox. when I did the change. I just want him to get a good box. If there's something obvious wrong with it speak up on this thread. Thanks guys
Just wanted to post an update on this post:
I went ahead with this box from ZOOT and it has resolved all the issues I was having with my "rebuilt" box and truck. The steering is now tight and the truck drives nicely, compared to previously fighting to keep it in a straight line. The only other different I made was tighting the pitman nut upto 115 ft-lbs, my previously box had a smaller nut which was not that tight. Really happy with the box and appreciate ZOOT's efforts, including shipping before my check arrived, brilliantly packaged up ready to fly to the UK with me. As a result I was able to safely drive the truck to my wedding last month!
So glad when a problem can be helped to a happy ending. Note: Mid Fifty, with my permission, now uses my alignment write up in their employee hands on classes.
As requested and thanks everyone for your help and comment, I certainly would never have got to the point where I could drive my truck to my wedding without all the help I've had on this forum.
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