Current Ball Joint Question
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 113
Likes: 20
After talking to my buddy who reminded me he has been doing front end work, including suspension and alignments, for the last 25 years, I am going to go with Ford/Motorcraft. So I contacted a dealer and he said there are Ford part #'s and Motorcraft part #'s. I don't understand why things can't be easy!! Here are the part #'s I came up with and he seemed to confirm . . .
Ford part # Upper ball joint--4C3Z-3049-DB (non-greasable)
Motorcraft part # upper ball joint--F6TZ-3V049-BA (he wasn't sure if this was the greasable)
Ford part # Lower ball joint--BC3Z3050B
Motorcraft part # Lower ball joint--2C3Z-3v050-bA
This would lead to the next question of which ones are better? Or does it really matter. My buddy recommended the Motorcraft ones and I trust him.
Ford part # Upper ball joint--4C3Z-3049-DB (non-greasable)
Motorcraft part # upper ball joint--F6TZ-3V049-BA (he wasn't sure if this was the greasable)
Ford part # Lower ball joint--BC3Z3050B
Motorcraft part # Lower ball joint--2C3Z-3v050-bA
This would lead to the next question of which ones are better? Or does it really matter. My buddy recommended the Motorcraft ones and I trust him.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
I always thought the ford numbers were the original parts and when replacements are made they use a motorcraft number. I thought if you tried to order the ford number, it would cross to the motorcraft replacement. But maybe there is a difference??
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 6
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
If you just ask for OEM pads you get Motorcraft ( crap in my opinion ).
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 26,410
Likes: 6
From: Ft. Lauderdale, FL
Dealer, dont feel bad I would have never known if it wasn't for all my brake problems on my previous ex around 2011... Now when I plan any repair I call the dealer parts counter and pre order my parts before going in to service. They know me well, ok maybe too well lol.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 614
Likes: 1
From: Fort Wayne IN
After talking to my buddy who reminded me he has been doing front end work, including suspension and alignments, for the last 25 years, I am going to go with Ford/Motorcraft. So I contacted a dealer and he said there are Ford part #'s and Motorcraft part #'s. I don't understand why things can't be easy!! Here are the part #'s I came up with and he seemed to confirm . . .
Ford part # Upper ball joint--4C3Z-3049-DB (non-greasable)
Motorcraft part # upper ball joint--F6TZ-3V049-BA (he wasn't sure if this was the greasable)
Ford part # Lower ball joint--BC3Z3050B
Motorcraft part # Lower ball joint--2C3Z-3v050-bA
This would lead to the next question of which ones are better? Or does it really matter. My buddy recommended the Motorcraft ones and I trust him.
Ford part # Upper ball joint--4C3Z-3049-DB (non-greasable)
Motorcraft part # upper ball joint--F6TZ-3V049-BA (he wasn't sure if this was the greasable)
Ford part # Lower ball joint--BC3Z3050B
Motorcraft part # Lower ball joint--2C3Z-3v050-bA
This would lead to the next question of which ones are better? Or does it really matter. My buddy recommended the Motorcraft ones and I trust him.
4C3Z-3049-DB (upper) is greaseable. I have it in stock and looked at it.
BC3Z-3050-B (lower) is not greaseable.
According to my parts look up system, the V #'s aren't available for your truck.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,174
Likes: 2
From: Flat Rock, MI
FWIW, I bought my 05 4x4 V10 Excursion with 87k on it. At that time, I drilled and tapped the lower (original) ball joints and installed a zerk fitting in each one. I now have a 142k on it now and they are still in great shape! My truck wandered at the time and 1st greasing the lower ball joints helped reduce it.
My point is that even if you replace the lowers with non greaseable joints, it's easy to add a zerk to it.
My point is that even if you replace the lowers with non greaseable joints, it's easy to add a zerk to it.
Last edited by RobRoss; Feb 17, 2015 at 02:03 PM. Reason: added content
Moderator
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 12,064
Likes: 1,574
From: Media PA
FWIW, I bought my 05 4x4 V10 Excursion with 87k on it. At that time, I drilled and tapped the lower (original) ball joints and installed a zerk fitting in each one. I now have a 142k on it now and they are still in great shape! My truck wandered at the time and 1st greasing the lower ball joints helped reduce it.
My point is that even if you replace the lowers with non greaseable joints, it's easy to add a zerk to it.
My point is that even if you replace the lowers with non greaseable joints, it's easy to add a zerk to it.
I drilled and added zerks to my lowers also at about 70k miles and at 101k now with no issues.
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Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 113
Likes: 20
I went ahead and took the advice of my friend at the heavy suspension shop and got the Motorcraft ones, so I will see how they hold up. I had already ordered them before it was pointed out the "V" in the part number stood for value line! That can't be a good thing but I trust the advice given to me. Based on the pictures, it looked like both of them were greasable so I will keep my fingers crossed.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,678
Likes: 1
From: Central Tx.
EVERYBODY is going to give you there OWN opinions !! They just can't help it
MANY have used & recommend the XRF with GREAT results reported. I was going to get them as well THEN I found a "BROWN BOX" Ford not M/C Value line delivered for $20 !!
Now & just need to find another 
Thread Starter
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 113
Likes: 20
I never heard anything bad about XRF in my research. However, I went ahead with the Motorcraft ones due to my friend's recommendation and expertise. He is also helping with the install so I wanted to take his advice.
XRF would have been my second choice, especially with the million-mile warranty.
Cargo Master
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 2,066
Likes: 4
From: North Texas
Anyone who stumbles on this thread, I posted where the shop did my uppers only.... If you have it apart, change all four, it does make sense. The lower on my drivers side took a rapid dump over the last month. Vibrations at speed were the tipoff that something was wrong and I was looking for issues with my new X/C springs, but low and behold, pry bar under the tire trick and I can clearly see the lower on the drivers side is quite sloppy loose. So much for the shop saving me some money. At least I have a third vehicle to drive and a 20 ton press, and a separate ball joint press if that doesn't do the trick, so I can attempt to replace the lowers myself this time. Might do new unit bearings while I have it apart since I hate doing things twice.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 1,092
Likes: 0
This a good thread,
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc
Can you guys confirm, on the lowers that don't have a zerk, cam you drill/tap while they are installed with the wheels mounted.
If I put mine on my lift at work I will try it next week.
I am still experiencing wandering, although less, after doing the Redhead box, x/b codes, bilstein shocks & steering dampener, hellwigs....etc