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I am getting a used turbo and hpop off of a buddy who did a long block swap for a guy. I want to mod the turbo with maybe a ww and pick your brains for ideas that would compliment my current set up. Only future mod will maybe be the new s&b cai so nothing too wild. Anything I can do with the spare hpop? The compressor wheel on the turbo is pretty chewed up from fod so I'm going to tear into it and make sure it's ok but no idea how to check the hpop or any mods to make it more reliable or up the output.
I would recommend rebuilding the Turbo. The kit will come with new bearings, seals and orings. I went with the 360 thrust bearing and so far so good on my Van Turbo at 25K. You can get the standard kit from Riff Raff and other vendors. The 360 kit from Barder Turbo. Do a search and you will find it.
The HPOP is the same. Get the kit and replace the orings and seal her up good. I have the high flow outlets on the bench waiting to go in. They are supposed to help increase flow and help stabilize the oil pressure from the heads. The T500's and Adrenaline have these type of outlets.
Awesome. I've rebuilt airplane turbos but never a truck turbo. Funny thing is that garret makes a lot of airplane turbos too so I'm not worried. Is resealing the hpop pretty straight forward?
Well to answer that it would help to know do you tow heavy or a round town driving or mostly highway?? Do you live above 4000' or drive in mountains? Because that would help point you in direction of what turbo combo would work best for you. Now if you don't have the cash and just want to freshen things up then I do understand. But here is the thing if you do only that you will be leaving alot on the table. What I mean is if you spend the cash to do the turbo and hpop right I'm sure you will be smiling from ear to ear.
I too agree no matter what at least the 360* rebuild kit from Barder's and a billet wheel. There are a few good billet wheels out there for a stock compressor housing.
*RR 4/4 blade
*WW2 5/5 blade *7/7 blade (China) but still interesting
*RR 6/6 blade *BD 9 blade
If you want to get all you can out of the turbo and not leave anything on the table.
* billet wheel for the ported compressor housing *1.0 a.r. turbine housing
* Ported compressor housing * turbine shaft & wheel balancing
* EBPV Delete & Hi flow outlet * Turbo Master w.g. actuator
The HPOP sure you could reseal it but that is not going to improve your hpop psi. I myself send my hpop to have it turned into a T500 and that was worth every dollar. I would just use your spare hpop as a core and get a new or send it to Joey he'll make you a T500 out of it. The T500 comes with the hiflow hpop fittings. I would also change the hpop fittings on the heads and replace hpop lines.
Yea I know sounds like the snowball effect for sure but it would be worth it. Or you can kick yourself in the butt later saying I Wish I would've???
Thanks Rob that is what I have learned from the FTE brotherhood and I am one of them guys that Wish I would have done this and done that to my turbo 20k ago. Because now 20k after rebuilding it I have to pull the turbo to change a few things.
Now I know you know all about the snowball effect !
So how's that working out for you? Thoughts on the RR 4/4?
I live at 5500 feet and don't tow often but when I do its up to 10000 feet with 15k behind me. I plan on doing the total rebuild on the turbo but I am unclear on what the ported housing is and the benefits. Also is a T500 too much pump for stock sticks?
I live at 5500 feet and don't tow often but when I do its up to 10000 feet with 15k behind me. I plan on doing the total rebuild on the turbo but I am unclear on what the ported housing is and the benefits. Also is a T500 too much pump for stock sticks?
A ported housing with a 1.0 turbine housing and a rr wheel will give you lots of boost without surge for towing that 15k up the mountain. A T500 works great with stock sticks. I would have done it on my X but I didn't have the money.
Thanks Rob that is what I have learned from the FTE brotherhood and I am one of them guys that Wish I would have done this and done that to my turbo 20k ago. Because now 20k after rebuilding it I have to pull the turbo to change a few things.
Now I know you know all about the snowball effect !
So how's that working out for you? Thoughts on the RR 4/4?
That snowball effect plays hell on your wallet but im sure glad i did it...great piece of mind. Funny you should ask that because the wife got use to driving my truck the X has been sitting since the rebuild. As a matter of fact I think the batts might be dead. That won't last too much longer since we have to move here shortly because the people don't want to rent anymore so were actively looking for another rental. Next winter I plan on tearing into the truck and putting the ported housing on with the rr wheel.
A ported housing with a 1.0 turbine housing and a rr wheel will give you lots of boost without surge for towing that 15k up the mountain. A T500 works great with stock sticks. I would have done it on my X but I didn't have the money.
I concur 100%
Towing 15k @ 10k sounds like his best bet would be the ported compressor housing and the RR billet wheel for the ported housing. But hopefully someone with experience with towing in the mountains will weigh in to confirm that. Stock injectors use or need more hpo then single shot injectors. So the T500 helps the stock split shot injectors fire a little better.
VVVVVVVVVVV Copy & Paste VVVVVVVVVV
Ported Compressor Housing Features and Benefits: <li value="0">Enlarged 4" inlet flows better with OEM wheel than "WW" replacements <li value="0">Increased turbo life <li value="0">Eliminates compressor surge <li value="0">4" Intake and exclusive inducer bleed ring <li value="0">13% increase in airflow <li value="0">Smoother exit airflow <li value="0">Increased efficiency and performance
Originally Posted by Pitcrw6
That snowball effect plays hell on your wallet but im sure glad i did it...great piece of mind. Funny you should ask that because the wife got use to driving my truck the X has been sitting since the rebuild. As a matter of fact I think the batts might be dead. That won't last too much longer since we have to move here shortly because the people don't want to rent anymore so were actively looking for another rental. Next winter I plan on tearing into the truck and putting the ported housing on with the rr wheel.
Sorry to hear the wife has taken a liking to your truck. Looks like you get to drive the EX then. I'm also sorry to hear you have to move again. That bites!! Do you still have the house in SC?
Yes I do and still trying to sell it. Wanna buy it....
Rob if I could get a job there in SC I would buy your house in a heart beat from the photos I seen it was a beautiful house. If I bought a house like that my wife might like me again. LOL
I truely HATE this winter wonderland BS here in NW Indiana yesterday it was 10* with 50mph winds, lake effect snow and today 3* this morning 20mph winds & lake effect!
So not to totally hijack here I was hoping some of the guys that do alot of driving in the mountains would weigh in turbo combos that work best.
Also Varminthunter do you have a EGT gauge? What kind of EGT's & boast #'s do you do now with 15k @ 5000 ft to 10k? Because if you are towing that heavy now with up pipes leaking you might have already caused some harm to your engine. High egt's pulling a load is not good.
1100-1150 is as high as I'll let it get. Boost peaks around 22 psi but going up the hill to our cabin it's 16-17 consistently with around 22 on downshifts. You climb from 7000 feet to 8970 at our cabin in about 4 miles. Lots of switchbacks and a pretty steep grade. Honestly, going up is a piece of cake compared to coming down with a loaded gooseneck full of heffers.
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