How to Diagnose your Fuel Pump
I employed my normal method of diagnosing intermittent problems, which is wait until a total failure and then look for the part that failed.* This weekend it had a no start issue. The engine would turn over briskly because of a new battery connected to a trickle charger when cranking the engine, but not one "catch" or other hint of trying to start.
rla2005 had me check for spark, fuel and air. To rule out spark he had me remove a sparkplug and hold it close to the valve cover and have my wife crank the engine. A spark clearly arc'd from the plug to the valve cover. So it wasn't a missing spark.
I determined that I could not hear the pump hum, so was concerned that the PCM signal to the pump may be screwed up, or the relay to the pump may be bad, or the pump may be bad. By using the forum's search function I found out how to diagnose the fuel pump in a "Fuel pump relay question" thread with posts by dustybumpers and subford.* Here is a short synopsis of what they recommended with a little editorial license, and what I found out by doing what they said.
So on to what dustybumpers recommended:
1. Have someone stick their ear by open fuel fill.
2. Turn the ignition key to "on" (but not to start cranking the engine).
3. Hear if the pump runs.
4. Open the air cleaner tubes by the throttle body, and spray some carb cleaner (or starting fluid) in the throttle body while someone is cranking the starter.
5. If it starts, it's the fuel pump.
6. If its does not start then it's the EEC (PCM?), or sparkplug.
7. (To check for spark do what rla2005 recommended above.)
8. Check the ground up on the core support behind the driver side headlight, "that is where my ground was bad, fixed it, and fuel pump fired right up."
So what did I find when I did what rla2005, subford and dustybumpers recommended?
Starter fluid baby! My wife started it right up. And died as soon as the starter fluid was combusted. And since I still have not heard one hum from the pump, I am dropping the tank this weekend.
Thanks to rla2005, subford and dustybumpers !!!
I rep'd them and if you find this compilation of their posts in thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-question.html helpful, please rep them too!
* Warning: I don't recommend this method and, in fact, it is probably a dangerous way to diagnose issues. So don't do it.
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*** BTW, I got my Innova 3145 trouble code reader today and hooked it up and got no codes whatsoever. But maybe I am using it wrong. But there are only three steps to using it: 1. turn engine to on; 2. turn code reader on; and 3. Press test/hold button and read codes. So is it possible that a failed fuel pump does not throw a code?
Also why do you say it is dangerous to ground pin #6 and turn on the key? That is the way the Ford shop manuals say to do it too.
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*** BTW, I got my Innova 3145 trouble code reader today and hooked it up and got no codes whatsoever. But maybe I am using it wrong. But there are only three steps to using it: 1. turn engine to on; 2. turn code reader on; and 3. Press test/hold button and read codes. So is it possible that a failed fuel pump does not throw a code?
rla2005: That makes total sense to me. When I was doing pin #6 jump to ground test recommended by subford, I noticed how corroded the contacts were in the EECIV (OBD) Data Link Connector (DLC). I have some CRC brand electrical contact cleaner, but you are right, from the looks of it, it will also take some abrasive action to clean those contacts given how corroded they are. Thanks again.












