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Doing the head gaskets again.

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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 03:10 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by jetact
Thanks Mustang, I am having my heads looked at so I will have him swap out those parts for the new ones. This is why I love this forum as people have great info. Thanks again.
Anytime. One of the reasons for this suggestion is because you will have the engine out and the rear cover and HPO branch tube needs to be removed to access the lifters on the rear most cylinders. Someone on here has a part number where the lifters can be purchased in sets of 4 at a significant reduction in cost over buying them individually ( I believe it was mchan who posted the part number ).
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jetact
Elrain,
I have read that one guy put in head studs without removing the cab or engine but I need to replace the gasket so the heads need to come out and with the studs you cant lift the head off so we need to pull the cab or the engine and have found we can pull the motor as easy as anything. It's just monkey wrenching, no hurry on the project as I have another rig to drive.

I replaced my head gaskets engine in with cab on. I already had studs installed by PO used Black Onyx gaskets and they let loose on me. It was not a bad job at all and would do it again with the engine in and cab on. I remove the HVAC box and ac lines to get better access and fender wells. I used a zip tie to hold the back stud in place during removal and install and dent the firewall as well for ease. I used a engine hoist to remove the heads but it was more of a pain that just lifting them in and out by hand. So it can be done just a lot to pull of the top of the engine but most you would have to deal with if you pull the engine.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 03:24 PM
  #18  
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Thanks again Mustang. I will look around for that part number to see if I can find it. Hopefully there is the part number for the pushrods also. @Zejokee that must have been a job. Its not to bad to pull the motor so we will just do it as times not an issue.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 03:26 PM
  #19  
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The real job was getting it running right after putting it all together, haha. Anthony and Julie at SDS can attest to that. A week rebuilding it, 3 weeks making it run right.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 05:04 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jetact
Thanks again Mustang. I will look around for that part number to see if I can find it. Hopefully there is the part number for the pushrods also. @Zejokee that must have been a job. Its not to bad to pull the motor so we will just do it as times not an issue.
I believe this is the part number for the lifters, 8c3z-6c329-b individual lifters list for like 48 bucks and this kit with 4 lifters and the guide lists for 74 bucks.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 05:09 PM
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Thanks mustang that great. Any idea the part number on the shorter push rods? just want to make sure I dont get the longer ones.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 06:32 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by jetact
Thanks mustang that great. Any idea the part number on the shorter push rods? just want to make sure I dont get the longer ones.
Im not sure on the part number for the push rods but it seems like you cant get the longer ones from the dealer. Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge on the subject will chime in.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 10:55 PM
  #23  
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I think the shorter pushrods are a 6.4 item... not sure. I didn't know about the pushrod issue until I had my engine back in and running.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2015 | 11:02 PM
  #24  
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Oh, thanks John. Guess i had better do some more research as to what to do and if they are working better.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by mustang_309
Im not sure on the part number for the push rods but it seems like you cant get the longer ones from the dealer. Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge on the subject will chime in.
I have the pushrod part number on my home computer. If someone will shoot me a PM and remind me I'll post it up. They are the same pushrods used for all the 6.0 and 6.4 engines now and are .050 shorter.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 01:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Zejokee
The real job was getting it running right after putting it all together, haha. Anthony and Julie at SDS can attest to that. A week rebuilding it, 3 weeks making it run right.
Was you referring to a job I did?? If lifters are done,, the most gut wrenching part of it is listening to the mean uneven crank while priming up new lifters. Gotta crank for a while.

The 6.4 push tubes are the only ones available. Just order the tubes for your truck. You will get the updated ones (from the dealer).

Here's a video about felpros.


That was the only time I've ever done a stud job and DIDN'T use ford blues. That truck hauls steel and gets leaned on fairly hard. Sofar I it's still going good.

I will not use anything vr btw.

There was a post on this thread and it was mentioned that vr saved someone $500?? Not sure if that was for the entire gasket kit. I just think there are better places to save a buck. Like turning lights off when you leave a room. Lol.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2015 | 02:52 PM
  #27  
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Thanks for the video Super Duty Service. This is a hard decision and I dont want to do it again.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 05:59 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jetact
Thanks for the video Super Duty Service. This is a hard decision and I dont want to do it again.
Thanks for the reminder. Here ya go:


lifter pushtube/pushrod 8c3z-6565-B (.050 shorter pushrod)
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 09:57 AM
  #29  
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Thanks npcpartsman for the part number. I will order those and the new lifters.
 
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Old Feb 14, 2015 | 10:23 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jetact
Elrain,
I have read that one guy put in head studs without removing the cab or engine but I need to replace the gasket so the heads need to come out and with the studs you cant lift the head off so we need to pull the cab or the engine and have found we can pull the motor as easy as anything. It's just monkey wrenching, no hurry on the project as I have another rig to drive.
Sounds like your going to do a cab off, just an FYI, I just watched this video where they pulled the head gaskets with cab on, like I said just an FYI...

 
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