Please Help
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New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Montgomery, TEXAS
Thanks for the info AXracer, I love free and I have decided to take everyone's advice and just get the 3 speed fixed. I may however later on after a few years of driving her around use your suggestion abut the T5. So thanks for the tip and the free catalog. <table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="6" cellpadding="0"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2"></td><td nowrap="nowrap">
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Ford 3 speeds are very easy to rebuild. pull it down (pick up a Motor's Manual that covers the F1 at a used book store or online for step by step) to see what it needs. Be sure you can get the parts it needs for realistic prices. If you send it off for rebuilding you'll likely spend more than you would for the T5 conversion.
By the way you don't need to remove the cab to replace the rubber cab mounts.
By the way you don't need to remove the cab to replace the rubber cab mounts.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 16,148
Likes: 4,747
From: Burbank, WA
The downside to installing a T5 5 speed in the 48-52 trucks is there's a major crossmember in the way and it's relatively major surgery to do the swap. For a beginner, you're better off sticking with the 3 speed for the time being.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
Likes: 1,050
From: NM
Aside from that, S-10 T5's are no longer plentiful, since everyone wants them for the older cars and trucks. A truly good one (not a worn-out one needing a rebuild) can easily run over $500, plus adapters at $300, plus driveshaft mods, frame mods... it adds up quickly.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
All jokes aside, Mac's has a complete set of Fs, Os, Ds, (and the much coveted "R") ; plus, the special washers used on the 48-50 trucks @ $61.95 ($15.4875 per, plus shipping)
part # 48-10859-2
part # 48-10859-2
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 12
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From: Montgomery, TEXAS
Awsome
That would be great Tinman52 just shoot me a PM if you find one.
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Montgomery, TEXAS
So, this weekend I got under the truck and to my surprise it was very clean with very little rust. I was also able to repair the eBrake. so I'm excited about that, I also decided to not take it all apart and leave it as is. However I'm still debating on the exhaust, any advice on dueling it out? or should I leave it as is and just get a new muffler (Rotted out) and extend the pipe out the back. Also do most people suggest just to keep the original oil bath air filter or do they change it out to a newer style or K&N and if you do keep the original is there any way to keep the oil from slushing out and covering the outside of the carb?
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,668
Likes: 1,249
From: Jefferson City, MO
I'm not sure if there is a great advantage to going to dual exhaust if it you are just going to cruise a bit. It's really up to your preference and money available.
For the oil bath air filter, a properly filled filter shouldn't slosh oil out. If you want to convert to a newer style and retain the look take a look at these instructions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-cleaner.html
Well, FTE used to have an article on this as well but it was moved or deleted.
Here is a thread where a Ford expert (NumberDummy) explains the oil bath is better than paper, but just harder to clean.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...r-filters.html
For the oil bath air filter, a properly filled filter shouldn't slosh oil out. If you want to convert to a newer style and retain the look take a look at these instructions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-cleaner.html
Well, FTE used to have an article on this as well but it was moved or deleted.
Here is a thread where a Ford expert (NumberDummy) explains the oil bath is better than paper, but just harder to clean.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...r-filters.html
Believe Nothing
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 7,513
Likes: 394
From: W. Central FL.
If you're sloshing oil out of the air cleaner you either have it too full or it has a hole where the oil runs out. Rust holes are common if the filter has ever had water blow in on it. Easily repairable.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 3,636
Likes: 11
From: Crossville, Tn
After I had first did Edith and cleaned up the engine and painted everything, I kept getting oil around the carb and manifold. I took the oil filter off and cleaned everything again, then searched everywhere looking for a leak. When I could find nothing I went to put the oil filter back on and found a small spot of oil on my work bench, after careful cleaning I still could not find a hole, but I left the filter on the bench with a small amount of oil in it. A short time later I discovered oil seeping from a tiny pinhole which had worn in the bottom. Cleaned it up, sanded it and filled the area with some JB weld and left it on the bench for a couple of days. Repainted the filter and put it back on, no more leaks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,668
Likes: 1,249
From: Jefferson City, MO
Great info guys, since my truck doesn't run much I haven't put any oil in the filter. I thought I has best do that, so it's sitting on the garage floor with oil in it waiting to see if there are any leaks.
Jay, show us some pictures of you engine and underneath. We love pictures. I'm glad you have decided to leave it together and drive it a bit. You will get a lot more enjoyment out of it that way.
Jay, show us some pictures of you engine and underneath. We love pictures. I'm glad you have decided to leave it together and drive it a bit. You will get a lot more enjoyment out of it that way.
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 17,559
Likes: 1,081
From: Central Delaware
Nice find. I think you may want to reconsider on the "R". I recall, several years ago, there was an article in all the newspapers, about a F O D D vehicle that made it off the assembly line, to the dealer and then sold. Very rare indeed! 