AC rebuild/refresh
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 344
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
AC rebuild/refresh
Well, the ac in my truck has been less than exciting since I've owned it and its time to address it before another trip.
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
Anyone done this whole deal yet?
I crawled under last night to explore the Ac clutch air gap and found that the shaft seal is leaking and clutch is grooved pretty bad and covered in oil.
I'm thinking it's time for a compressor, clutch, orifice tube, expansion valve and reciever/dryer. Does that about sum it up? I haven't messed with AC systems much outside of my simple jeep system that was as easy as two seals and recharge in my garage to fix it.
Do I need to flush the lines out? Should I do that at all? Motor craft worth the cost over something like four seasons? Its almost twice the cost but in the end if something goes I'm further downstream after freon etc to charge it and the possible shop charge if I pay to have to done.
Anyone done this whole deal yet?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 1,388
Likes: 2
From: Greensboro, NC
If the compressor is leaking but is still somewhat working then you approach from 2 different ways. First step on either method is to evacuate the system so the R134a is not vented out to the atmosphere.
The cheapest/easiest way is to replace the compressor, orifice tube and the accumulator and not flush the lines. After the installation is complete you would run the system on vacuum, check for leaks and then recharge.
The best way will certainly cost a bit more but will be the best approach for the long term. Remove the compressor, orifice tube, accumulator, condenser and the rear lines at the evaporator. Flush the lines with something like Fast Flush and blow out any residue. Install the new compressor, orifice tube, accumulator and a new condenser. Then pull vacuum and recharge. This method will provide the best efficiency but will certainly cost more for the parts and the amount of time it will take to complete the work.
The cheapest/easiest way is to replace the compressor, orifice tube and the accumulator and not flush the lines. After the installation is complete you would run the system on vacuum, check for leaks and then recharge.
The best way will certainly cost a bit more but will be the best approach for the long term. Remove the compressor, orifice tube, accumulator, condenser and the rear lines at the evaporator. Flush the lines with something like Fast Flush and blow out any residue. Install the new compressor, orifice tube, accumulator and a new condenser. Then pull vacuum and recharge. This method will provide the best efficiency but will certainly cost more for the parts and the amount of time it will take to complete the work.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 344
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
If the compressor is leaking but is still somewhat working then you approach from 2 different ways. First step on either method is to evacuate the system so the R134a is not vented out to the atmosphere.
The cheapest/easiest way is to replace the compressor, orifice tube and the accumulator and not flush the lines. After the installation is complete you would run the system on vacuum, check for leaks and then recharge.
The best way will certainly cost a bit more but will be the best approach for the long term. Remove the compressor, orifice tube, accumulator, condenser and the rear lines at the evaporator. Flush the lines with something like Fast Flush and blow out any residue. Install the new compressor, orifice tube, accumulator and a new condenser. Then pull vacuum and recharge. This method will provide the best efficiency but will certainly cost more for the parts and the amount of time it will take to complete the work.
The cheapest/easiest way is to replace the compressor, orifice tube and the accumulator and not flush the lines. After the installation is complete you would run the system on vacuum, check for leaks and then recharge.
The best way will certainly cost a bit more but will be the best approach for the long term. Remove the compressor, orifice tube, accumulator, condenser and the rear lines at the evaporator. Flush the lines with something like Fast Flush and blow out any residue. Install the new compressor, orifice tube, accumulator and a new condenser. Then pull vacuum and recharge. This method will provide the best efficiency but will certainly cost more for the parts and the amount of time it will take to complete the work.
Anything specific about flushing the lines? Can you flush a condenser?
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,829
Likes: 104
From: Martinsburg, WV
NO, not on pretty much anything made since the late 90s. It is a multi-pass condenser and cannot be flushed. I won't even warranty a compressor if it was not bought and/or installed with a new condenser, especially not on a FS/FX equipped Ford. Even worse on the Scroll equipped vehicles.
Thread Starter
|
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 344
Likes: 1
From: Phoenix, AZ
Bit the bullet and ordered new motorcraft compressor, condenser, drier/accum, and orifice tube. Went with a 4seasons expansion valve. Now only worry I have is are the hoses falling apart.... A lot of hoses on the excursion!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
supertramp
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
31
Jun 14, 2016 03:28 PM
