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Tune up questions

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Old Feb 8, 2015 | 08:06 PM
  #1  
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Tune up questions

1994 F250 460
I'm looking to do a tune up on my truck. I'm fairly certain it has the original parts still. I want to change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. What brand parts should I use? Motorcraft? Should I spray the plugs with some pb blaster the day. Effort since they're probably 21 years old?

Also, my Haynes manual lists a range to torque the plugs, what poundage should I use?

I haven't done a tune up on a veh in over 20 years but I feel confident in doing it. I'll just go slow and do 1 item at a time.

Thanks, Jeff
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 11:46 AM
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From: Menifee, CA
Originally Posted by ChefJeff1
1994 F250 460
I'm looking to do a tune up on my truck. I'm fairly certain it has the original parts still. I want to change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. What brand parts should I use? Motorcraft? Should I spray the plugs with some pb blaster the day. Effort since they're probably 21 years old?

Also, my Haynes manual lists a range to torque the plugs, what poundage should I use?

I haven't done a tune up on a veh in over 20 years but I feel confident in doing it. I'll just go slow and do 1 item at a time.

Thanks, Jeff
Motorcraft cap, rotor and plugs are good. Use 9mm Ford Racing wires if you want. For an engine with mostly everything original, check all the vacuum lines too. Most likely brittle and cracked, possibly causing the engine to run a bit off. Replace with silicone vacuum lines. If the plugs, cap and rotor are original, replace your fuel filter while you're at it. If those items under the hood were neglected, I bet the fuel system was too. Also check the ignition coil, 20 years seems like about end of life for something like that too.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 03:18 PM
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Thanks Guitar, I replaced the fuel filter a couple thousand miles ago. I'll check the vacuum hoses.

But, what is the ignition coil, where do I find it, and is it difficult to change?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 03:24 PM
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Coil is connected to center of the distributor cap by a "spark plug" wire. Sits on the driver sided of the motor almost to the firewall.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 03:46 PM
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Thanks snopeston, that was easy to find. I unplugged it and some dust fell out and it looks pretty corroded. I added a motorcraft one to my shopping cart. I think you guys just saved me from a catastrophic failure leaving me stranded in the woods. This is my camper hauling truck! I should probably replace the wire too.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 03:50 PM
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the wire to the coil comes with the spark plug wires as a set
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 04:16 PM
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Awesome! I'm excited to do this project!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 04:26 PM
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Good luck, the plugs on my 5.8L were a challenge due to corrosion. Patience, a long extension and swivel can be your best friends...
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitarJesus
Motorcraft cap, rotor and plugs are good. Use 9mm Ford Racing wires if you want.
I have no idea why so many people on here are always about the motorcraft/ford parts, it's like it's a religion here.

Easily the BEST cap/rotor is the MSD stuff, most off all with the retention cap. $35 bucks or so for the cap, rotor, and retainer, not bad at all.

I can't seem to find in a quick search an actual rating of the resistance of the Ford Racing wires. Not a good sign and a forum post said 1000 ohms/foot. I have no idea why anyone would buy these. For $20 more you can get the simply awesome wire that I've never read a single legit complaint about and is only 40 ohms/foot. The Taylor Cable Thundervolt 8.2s.

Plugs, this one people will likely flame me about but for a decent running injected engine I'd put in the Bosch Platinums, the plain ones. They don't degrade like standard plugs and the Bosch design of covering the side of the electrode keeps/makes them work fantastic for a very long time. FWIW I'd never put them in a carbed or poorly running engine, platinums fowl more easily.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BruteFord
I have no idea why so many people on here are always about the motorcraft/ford parts, it's like it's a religion here.

Easily the BEST cap/rotor is the MSD stuff, most off all with the retention cap. $35 bucks or so for the cap, rotor, and retainer, not bad at all.

I can't seem to find in a quick search an actual rating of the resistance of the Ford Racing wires. Not a good sign and a forum post said 1000 ohms/foot. I have no idea why anyone would buy these. For $20 more you can get the simply awesome wire that I've never read a single legit complaint about and is only 40 ohms/foot. The Taylor Cable Thundervolt 8.2s.

Plugs, this one people will likely flame me about but for a decent running injected engine I'd put in the Bosch Platinums, the plain ones. They don't degrade like standard plugs and the Bosch design of covering the side of the electrode keeps/makes them work fantastic for a very long time. FWIW I'd never put them in a carbed or poorly running engine, platinums fowl more easily.
I never said Motorcraft parts were the end all be all, but definitely quality made parts. I don't know about platinum plugs however. Going platinum or iridium on an old engine like this gives no real benefit. I go with Autolite 25's myself and they are the gold standard for 460 engines efi or carbed.

I havent tried the Taylor wires, but i also haven't spoken to anyone that has had a bad experience with the Ford 9mm wires either.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by BruteFord
I have no idea why so many people on here are always about the motorcraft/ford parts, it's like it's a religion here.
I do, they're good quality parts. You get what you pay for, especially when it comes to auto parts.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:35 PM
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Originally Posted by GuitarJesus
Going platinum or iridium on an old engine like this gives no real benefit.
Platinum vs. tungsten in this application is like the old argument between points and electronic ignition. Points work just fine, but they immediately start to degrade were the electronic ignition doesn't. Or the argument between dino oil and synthetic, synthetic isn't without it's cost and issues but many now agree it's worth it. Same for tungsten plugs, they immediately start to degrade much faster then platinum plugs. They aren't without there cost or issues but in this application IMO they are worth it.

Originally Posted by fordboy97
I do, they're good quality parts. You get what you pay for, especially when it comes to auto parts.
I dare you to hold in your hands a motorcraft and MSD cap and rotor kit along with the receipt for both and choose the motorcraft. Motorcraft vs. cheapo Brand X, sure you have a point, but that isn't an argument for motorcraft over MSD.
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:37 PM
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Bosch may be ok for some of those foreign jobs, but for Fords, Motorcraft or Autolites only...
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Snipeston
Bosch may be ok for some of those foreign jobs, but for Fords, Motorcraft or Autolites only...
Why? Do you have a reason beyond that's what everyone says?
 
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Old Feb 9, 2015 | 05:48 PM
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Yes, tried them in my old 95 F150 with the I6, current 95 F150 with the 5.8L, and my old 2000 F150 with the 5.4L. Ran like poo...put in Motorcrafts in, with all things being equal and ran like a champ. Also tried them in my 89 Wrangler...it got Champion plugs after a month of chasing idle issues...

If they work for you, great! But based on my past experience, I wont use or recommend them...
 
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