[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-Mar-02 AT 08:48 PM (EST)]I'm pretty sure I need a new speedometer, the needle is jumping around pretty bad and I don't think it's the speed sensor on the rearend. I'm trying to find a used one because of cost of one from the dealer isn't cheap. My question is can I just get just the speedometer in the center of the cluster? Or is it all one piece with the guages and tach included?

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[font color="green"]1995 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4 LWB 302 M5OD [/font]31x10.50's
[font color="green"]1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6 NP435 [/font]Warn hubs, DeeZee bed caps, '96 XLT bench seat, new paint job

 

All one piece. Do you have a 5 spd or auto? My speedo went and i'm sure it was my speedo becuase it wanted to die at 2-3 mph...becuase it was telling my computer i was going 130-180 and hitting the speed limiter. It sounds like it is ur speedo. However, a broken piece in the rear end could also cause this problem. I would HIGHLY recommend that you drain the rear end fluid, take the cover off, and see if anything broken comes out of it and check the condition of the carrier with the assembly on it. Much better off trying this first then putting in a new 350 dollar guage cluster and finding out that it didnt help.



Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds

Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
92' Thunderbird 3.8L V-6 FOR SALE!
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter baby.

The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L

 

Thanks, it's a 5 speed. If the problem was in the rearend, wouldn't the ABS light come on? Mine's also cutting out, but it does it out on the highway. Anytime the needle swings past 85, it cuts out for a split second. It gets very annoying anywhere above 65 mph. With yours, did you have an awful hard time starting out in either first or reverse? This is another problem I'm having, but the clutch is on its last leg, so I was thinking that was my problem there.

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[font color="green"]1995 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4 LWB 302 M5OD [/font]31x10.50's
[font color="green"]1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6 NP435 [/font]Warn hubs, DeeZee bed caps, '96 XLT bench seat, new paint job

 

HAH, very good thanks for telling me more of your syptoms becuase, yes, (the hard starting in reverse/1st) is the speedo telling the computer that you are going 130-180mph...when you are only going 2-3 mph, and the engine cuts out, because it hits the speed limiter. This is the EXACT problem that i had. You need a whole new gauge cluster my friend. Heres an explaination. The sensor in the rear end sends a pulse VSS(vehicle speed sensor) signal to the PSOM (programmable speedo/odometer module, aka the speedometer in ur dash). The PSOM changes the signal, and sends it to the computer to meter the air/fuel mixture, hense, speed density. What happens is that, when the PSOM changes that 2-3mph speed signal, it is actually telling the computer you are moving at 130-180mph, which sets off the speed limiter and shuts the fuel injectors off. This is common with the PSOM, thats why you want to get a new one, which has the "bug" fixed in it.



Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds
NEW PICS IN MY GALLERY!! :-)


Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
92' Thunderbird 3.8L V-6 FOR SALE!
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter baby.

The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L

 

Thanks alot, looks like I'm needing a new PSOM. Couple more questions. Was the $350 you paid with or without a tach? If I get a new one, I'm guessing you probably can't get them with your current mileage, they just start at 00000?

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[font color="green"]1995 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4 LWB 302 M5OD [/font]31x10.50's
[font color="green"]1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6 NP435 [/font]Warn hubs, DeeZee bed caps, '96 XLT bench seat, new paint job

 

STOP!!!!!
Before you do anything else. Do a search on this site for PSOM. Your symptoms may only be the speed sensor in the rearend. I had the following symptoms and all were related to the rearend sensor or wheel inside of it. Don't know changed both.
1. Speedo jumped around.
2. Cruise control jumped too.
3. ABS light was on(mostly) sometimes it was off.
4. Tranny shifted hard into 2nd gear.
Also, if the "wheel" on the ring gear inside the rear is even the smallest out of alignment it will cause this problem too.
Please search for the PSOM and follow all of the instructions for checking it out. This site has really good troubleshooting procedures for checking it out. I remember in one of the posts a Ford Technician said that he had a truck at the dealer one day and it would kill because the computer thought it was hitting the speed limiter. All he did to isolate the problem was unplug the speed sensor and the problem went away. Solution: $20 sensor fixed it, not the $350 speedo.
Anyway you can buy just the speedo, you don't have to buy the whole cluster.
Hope you get this before you spend money that you may not have too. Better safe than sorry.
John B.

 

you can buy the whole cluster from a wrecking yard for about $100. when you disassemble the cluster you can just put the speedometer in the old cluster. the speedo in a cluster with a tach is the same as the one without a tach. Hope this helps.

 

Today I unplugged the sensor on the rearend and tried driving around town. This stopped all my symptoms. I guess it doesn't tell me whether it's the sensor or the PSOM though. My ABS light has never come on (except when I unplugged the sensor.) But I am happy that my clutch isn't all screwed up like I thought it was.

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[font color="green"]1995 F-150 Supercab XLT 4x4 LWB 302 M5OD [/font]31x10.50's
[font color="green"]1986 F-150 4x4 300 I6 NP435 [/font]Warn hubs, DeeZee bed caps, '96 XLT bench seat, new paint job

 

Ok guys, i've researhced this problem for a long time. I have your EXACT problem down to every little detail. I changed my ABS speed sensor and it did not do a thing. Yes, if you unplug it, your symptoms will go away, thats because everything is disconnected. Mine has been unplugged for months while i've been trying to figure out the problem. The reason why you have a dead spot at 2-3 mph is becuase the PSOM is sending a bad signal to the computer. If it was the rear end, it would just make the speedo needle bounce and that...would cause the cruise problem because the cruise runs off the speedo. The 350 was with a tach, mine will be in shortly and, if you wanna wait a week or so, i will 100% guarentee you that that is the problem.


Primary rig is:
95' F-150 EB 300/6 5 spd with 4" Superlift, MSD, Ram Air, Gibson Exhaust, 32" BFG Muds
NEW PICS IN MY GALLERY!! :-)


Then theres:
88' F-250 Superduty 351 + c6
92' Thunderbird 3.8L V-6 FOR SALE!
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 and a
3 spd column shifter baby.

The newest addition to the Ford family is a 99' Mustang GT 4.6L

 

 

Mine has some of these symptoms too, I am going to try the 20 sensor first. It seems cheaper to try that first and if that doenst get it, oh well I have to buy a new speedo anyway and have a new abs sensor aswell. To bad they arent ever open on Sundays

 

I've got a used PSOM from a 96 with about 35K miles on it which I'm looking to sell. $30 plus shipping. Let me know.

 

This is an old thread, but yes, getting a new speedo/tach gauge cluster fixed my problem. If you buy a used speedo, you have to re-calibrate it for the size tires you have, or atleast make sure the calibration is correct. You can also have a dealer change the mileage for you. When I bought my speedo, I gave them the mileage and calibrations and everything, and they programmed it in before I took it home. I had to give them my old speedo back however.

 

What's the Ford part number on the 96 PSOM you have for sale?

 

For everyone reading this!! The rearend sensor fixed my speedometer problem. It was $17.59 at Ford parts and service . I would really try this first b4 buying the new speedo/cluster. It may work or not, but its worth not spending $350 bucks. Who knows, I may still have to buy one in the future since they are known to malfunction