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Cutting through a hitch pin - Somewhat of an emergency

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  #31  
Old 02-07-2015, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by hasteranger
30 minutes? Damn. I could cut an excursion in half length wise with a torch in 30 minutes. Lol.

DO NOT try to yank it out with a pole or tree. It will rip the hitch off the frame. Cut it off leaving some sticking out. Use a long sawzall blade to slit it from the inside and then a chisel to curl it inwards. Use penetrant generously.

Edit. From the pics that might be a solid ball mount. That's tough.
I'm not saying it wouldn't happen, but why would the hitch rip off the frame? My line of thinking is that its not held in by anything other than rust, which should brake free no?

I don't really understand the rest...

Originally Posted by WE3ZS
Yeah, That looks to be a solid drawbar.........Heat on the hitch, (but not too much, don't get it glowing or even close), lots of penetrating oil squirted in the gap (it will smoke a lot but the cooling process will draw the oil into the seem deeper) and a lot of love with a 4lb or so mini-sledge. I agree on not trying to jerk it out via a tree.
There is not really any gap. Think coral reef

The guy that blasted the pin out for me said to back up into a few things to try to break the rust free and then try to pull it out.
 
  #32  
Old 02-07-2015, 08:12 PM
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I ripped a hitch off a Blazer frame trying to pull it off and know someone else who tried the same and had the same result. You need to realize how much force a sledge hammer blow inflicts. I drove a 10k lb tractor onto a bent trailer ramp and it wouldn't bend it back but a 10 lb sledge and a few blows did. So think about that...

It might come out, sure, but if it doesn't, the results could be catastrophic. Not worth risking.

If its a solid ball, I'd heat it just short of glowing, soak it down in penetrant as stated (ATF mixed each acetone works best but is smelly) and I would probably put the truck in 4wd and in Park with the brake on, use a come along to apply gentle tension to the hitch (take the ball off and use a clevis to attach through the hole so it doesn't come flying off), use a weight like a floor mat or old jacket wrapped around the cable to take the shock out in case it goes, and then I'd use a ten pound sledge, standing clear of the ball mount, and hit one side then the other. Maybe 3 or 4 whacks, then more heat, more penetrant, then more whacks. It will eventually come out. Don't go crazy with the sledge or you'll bend the hitch.
 
  #33  
Old 02-07-2015, 11:30 PM
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Originally Posted by sessland
You cut through 4" cast iron with a hackzall???

riiiiiiiiiight

Maybe it's the cast iron in Canada.
Originally Posted by Ranger1980
Blade and technique make all the difference. I have cut much 4inch cast drain tile with a saw all and a cast iron blade. Sure a snapper works much better but one must make due.
Originally Posted by sessland
If we don't use a cast iron blade it takes MUCH longer and kills the metal blades.

The hackzall is not meant for that type of work. At times we use the hackazall for purposes it was never designed for simply because of the size and you can get it behind a wall but that's also why we go through a few of those a year.

/end thread hijack

blades are a dime a dozen .. i use my corded sawzall for cast iron ..

but for my trailer hitch pin i used my hackzall ..

my first hackzall has been repaired twice under warranty .. it fits in so many places that the corded one wont fit.. it gets used DAILLLLLYYYY
i dont do a ton of cast iron so i have not bought a snap cutter.. i also know the old score and hammer technique ....
 
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