When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I try not to go overboard with making decisions based on anecdotal evidence. There are just too many variables involved with old, rebuilt engines. Many people out there are running 90cc pumps with various turbochargers and have not had HG issues. And failures can arise from non-flat heads or deck, contamination at installation, defective gasket etc., the main reason I would pay attention to this particular anecdote is that Justin knows the guy it happened to, and we have verification that this was a fresh rebuild, (done correctly), and the alalysis of the failure is accurate (that the HG failed, no underlying root cause). This example along with orhers pretty much forces the conclusion that with 90cc's of fuel and mid 20's psi of efficient boost, we are at the fringe edge of what the 7/16 ARP studs will hold. Decompression does help, but one point to 20.5 is likely not enough. RacinNdrummin was running with .060 shaved pistons, .010 decked off the block, net .050" decompression which is around 18.5:1. His gaskets failed spectacularly but he was running 190cc's and an adjustment to his fuel inlet pressure shot his timing way advanced, and is likely the root of his failure in spite of the decompression. However, that too demonstrates how thin the margin of error you have with those head fasteners. NMB2 ran his pistons shaved .80" which is around 16.5:1, and his saw a lot of abuse in the 40+ psi boost range. So there are the examples that we know of. If you are just wanting to run the 90cc and S256, I would shave .040" to .060" and if possible intercool it. But this is just an educated guess. Shaving pistons more than about .010" is its own controversy. Thinning the crown and adding heat to the top rings are the concerns, so ceramic coating is probably wise. Maybe this sheds more light on Justin's statement about using a 7.3 for any serious performance build up.
Good info. I don't necessarily want to run that setup. I'm just trying to gather as much information as I can. I want to shed some new light on the power these engines can make. I am good friends with the owner of a reputable machine shop here in Illinois. We talked for an hour or two about these engines the other week. We are going to work together and build a set of cylinder heads.
Good info. Thanks. Blew hg with just 90cc with studs?? What c/r and turbo was he running?
Stock compression 6.9, BW s256 22-23psi i believe. Think they said it had almost perfect drive pressure ratio.
F834 said it perfectly. Other than the early 6.9 they have 22:1 CR. If i bothered to decompress it i would go to 18/19:1 ballpark. 7.3 is 21.5:1, not like half a point makes much of a difference, just throwing it out there.
Stock compression 6.9, BW s256 22-23psi i believe. Think they said it had almost perfect drive pressure ratio.
F834 said it perfectly. Other than the early 6.9 they have 22:1 CR. If i bothered to decompress it i would go to 18/19:1 ballpark. 7.3 is 21.5:1, not like half a point makes much of a difference, just throwing it out there.
I'm sorry if relaying this information is redundant for you guys. I'm new to these engines. I have an early 6.9l which C/R is the same as the 7.3l correct? Also other than the idit block being more rigid, the only advantage to the 7.3l N/A block is the larger head studs? I'm understanding HGS are the main weak link in the setup.
Dont sweat it, thats what the board is for. Early 6.9 is 20:1 or 20.5:1 or something like that iirc. Difference is in the pre-cups. The early blocks arent as beefy in the front and by the block heater, but other than that are fine. Its not so much the headgaskets, but the 7/16 fasteners, just not tough enough to get wild with. 7/16 headbolts/studs, 20+ to 1 compression, and lots of boost is just bad combo. Unfortunately no easy way to convert to bigger fasteners.
Dont sweat it, thats what the board is for. Early 6.9 is 20:1 or 20.5:1 or something like that iirc. Difference is in the pre-cups. The early blocks arent as beefy in the front and by the block heater, but other than that are fine. Its not so much the headgaskets, but the 7/16 fasteners, just not tough enough to get wild with. 7/16 headbolts/studs, 20+ to 1 compression, and lots of boost is just bad combo. Unfortunately no easy way to convert to bigger fasteners.
Thanks for helping me through. This thread potentially helped me not make bad decisions. And it wasnt even my thread!!
I'm sorry if relaying this information is redundant for you guys. I'm new to these engines. I have an early 6.9l which C/R is the same as the 7.3l correct? Also other than the idit block being more rigid, the only advantage to the 7.3l N/A block is the larger head studs? I'm understanding HGS are the main weak link in the setup.
I have not been able to find an definitive answer on this. The web info out there says the 1983 engines are 20.7:1 and 1984 and up are all 21.5:1, same as the 7.3 IDI. Others claim the 1984-1987 6.9's were 22.5:1. You also hear different versions on why it differs. Some say pre-cups, some say it relates to differences in the piston swirl chambers as there are quite a few versions out there. But like Hairy said, this is really information for the history and trivia buff, not an engine builder. This is a fastener strength issue. ARP studs are the best we have without going full custom alloy studs with a 4-digit price tag. We can over torque the studs a little bit (110 ft lbs is about the max without getting permanent stretch). Supposedly the Victor Reinz gaskets are slightly thinner than FelPro which may help. The R&D cam grind does not change static compression but is good for about a one point reduction in dynamic compression reduction. Obviously piston shaving will help with cylinder pressures. No gaskets like heat, so intercooling and efficient turbos help with that. Advancing the timing raises cylinder pressures so that plays a part. How you use your engine (load, rpm etc.,) will all affect what you can " get away with". I just like to stack the cards in my favor as much as possible... even NA guys sh*+ gaskets sometimes.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.