I've got 2 amps/ subs I'm trying to install. I've got a couple of questions. How have you ran your power cable? Is there an opening or access that is pre-existing or did you have to drill an area in the firewall? With the factory head unit, which wire do I need to tap for the turn on wire? Also, just a side note. The second row headrests have been replaced with monitors which I plan on removing. I'm assuming they have some type of power cables already ran for them? Would they have the turn on wire as well? I haven't had time to see how they're wired up yet. If the wires are large enough I may just add a fuse in-line and call it a day. I guess it depends on how they are wired in. But if I can use the pre-existing wires there for either the power or the turn on wire it would make the install a lot easier. Anyway, just looking for advice, pictures or whatever help you guys can offer before I get started.

 

I ran the power wire outside the truck and came up under the 2nd row of seats.

 

I ran mine under with the frame than came up under the 2nd row. I also pipes the wire in liquid tight pipe. And i used a water tight grommet for the hole. I depending on the amp size u can do a false floor behind the 2nd row or at lease hide 1 amp under the passanger side 2nd row seat. I have a 4ch under mine and i have 3 140ah batterys behind the 2nd row. As far as the radio i cant help. I fiberglassed a tablet in mine

 

If you would like, I can check tomorrow. But the previous owner ran the power from the passenger battery, through a gap in the fender near the firewall, down the inside kick panels and then to a power splitter bolted near the second rows.

He originally had the amps under the third row, but they were always in the way, so I moved them under the second row captain chairs. They are much more happy there.

If you are really interested, i can try to take some photos tomorrow, as it is well past dark here

 

Also be prepared for the back windows to make some of the worst noises ever lol. I had to have mine open all the time

 

Make sure the main power wire from the battery to your amp never crosses the RC cables, thats one source of alternator whine, and if you have more than one amp, use a distribution block for the ground after you find a good one. Another way to try to avoid the whine.

 

I ran mine through the clutch plug. then under the sill trim plates. and up under the second row seats.

 

Thanks for all of the replies I spread as much rep as it would let me and yes (USCG or anyone else) if you don't mind pics would be great. I didn't think about the little windows, I never use them but I can see where they would rattle. Guess I'll have to deal with that when the time comes. I already have most of the cables, wires, fuses, a distribution block and grounding block to wire everything in. I'm still not sure about the power on cable. But again guys, thanks. I'll be watching this up until I can make time to get started on it. I'll post some pics after it's all done incase anyone else is watching.

 

What kind of power are you going to be pushing? Those screen power wires aren't going to be good for anything but a 100w amp. If you skimp on the wire gauge you run the serious risk of pushing too much power for the gauge and starting an electrical fire. Too small a wire will cause a lot of resistance, which in turn causes heat which robs efficiency. This in turn causes more power to be pushed, and the cycle continues.

I'm running a 1500w amp powered with a 4-ga wire. I took out the clutch blank off plate in the firewall, drilled it oversize and threw a grommet on to seal it and protect the insulation. Small head of silicone for peace of mind. Ran it down the inner fender from the driver side battery, through the firewall, then down underneath all the doorsill plates and out under the back seat.
Ensure you don't run the RCA's down the same side as already mentioned, you'll get all sorts of noise and interference. I ran mine under the passenger side door sills similar to the power on the driver side.

Can't help you on the power-on wire right now, but if nobody can help out I can try to pull out my head unit and see which wire on the aftermarket adapter harness jumps to the stock harness. I highly recommend getting a decent head-unit, a $120-150 will work fine. For one it'll make your system sound WAY better overall. Something with an integral HPF, several band equalizer (mine has 10), and a crossover option will make your stereo sound like a new setup completely. Ask Razzi, he's heard my setup and it's ridiculously crisp and clear.

 

Thanks dude. That's exactly what I was wondering about the screens power wire. I've still got to trace the wire to see how they've got it ran, but if not the clutch blank sounds like a winner. I've got a new 4 gauge power wire which then splits in to two 8 gauges at the distribution block. The amps are 300w each btw. I'm sure I'll end up with a new head unit eventually, but doubt it will be anytime soon. So for now I need to figure how to get everything I've got up and running. I'm still hoping there will be some type of power on wire at the screens that I can use. Anyhow, thanks.

 

If anything, you may be able to use the screen on wire to trigger the power on the amp. However how the screens get their power will determine whether or not that's viable. Honestly you'd just need to probe the empty slots in the fuse block under the dash. Almost every vehicle I've had has had an empty spot or two that is key'd hot. That'd work great for triggering the amp.

 

Yeah, that's my back up plan if all else fails.

 

I'm pretty sure the switched power wire is the blue in the harness of the head unit.

 

For aftermarket units yes, but he's running the stock unit for now. Excursions never had a fancy amplified system, so there's no remote wire.

 

Here is how mine are rigged. I have one for the mains, and one for sub.

AT


Two amps, 1000 watts for the mains, and 600 watts for the sub