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7 Pin Trailer Connector

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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 09:13 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
I'd be hesitant about tapping into the truck's back-up lighting. The relay isolation is there for the safety of a multi-position switch that's on the trans.

An over-current condition from a faulty wire on the trailer could cause a new DTR sensor switch to be purchased.

Pop
Not sure how likely that is, but probably could use a diode in the feed to the trailer to guard against that possibility. Feed through harness would best, but if harness was trashed -
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 09:20 PM
  #17  
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Do you mean to use the diode as a FUSE?

Why not just use a fuse?

Or a relay.

I'd sure like to know if he's looked in the doghouse. Unless the truck specifically came with the trailer-towing package (and it CAN come WITH a hitch, and NOT the "package", believe-it-or-not), it won't have that relay installed.

Has anyone actually looked at the wiring diagrams for his truck that I provided above?

This isn't rocket science.

Pop
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 09:32 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
Do you mean to use the diode as a FUSE?

Why not just use a fuse?

Or a relay.

I'd sure like to know if he's looked in the doghouse. Unless the truck specifically came with the trailer-towing package (and it CAN come WITH a hitch, and NOT the "package", believe-it-or-not), it won't have that relay installed.

Has anyone actually looked at the wiring diagrams for his truck that I provided above?

This isn't rocket science.

Pop

It is not rocket science, but if I understand the OP's latest post, he has no continuity between the back and front side of the seven pin receptacle on his truck and that was the focus. I have seen that happen with the ground pin rusting out, but have never seen it in any of the other pins.


Steve




Steve
 
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Old Feb 2, 2015 | 10:49 PM
  #19  
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You might take the four screws out that holds the connector to the bracket. Then, you can peel back the rubber boot to view the wires as they connect to the individual pins.

If it's an OEM Ford plug, each wire is attached to the "pin" by a little screw. Maybe the center wire has come loose.

And yes, it's the Black (with a Light Green tracer) wire that you are concerned with.

Pop
 
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 06:54 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by SpringerPop
You might take the four screws out that holds the connector to the bracket. Then, you can peel back the rubber boot to view the wires as they connect to the individual pins.

If it's an OEM Ford plug, each wire is attached to the "pin" by a little screw. Maybe the center wire has come loose.

And yes, it's the Black (with a Light Green tracer) wire that you are concerned with.

Pop

Reading his posts, I thought he had already done this, but then again maybe not.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 01:32 PM
  #21  
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Update. I removed the 7 pin connector and pigtail from the truck. Peeled back all the electrical tape and inspected the connections. I found that the black w/green wire was never connected. It was taped back against the wire harness. I don't know why they would go through that when they just could have connected the wire. The truck has the towing pkg and was wired from the factory. I connected the black w/green stripe wire to the center pin on the 7 pin connector and pluged it back into the trucks harness. Tested for reverse or backup light and it works.. Now, adding a relay and running wire to the back of the trailer and connecting to ramp lights will be the next step.

Thanks for all the feed back...
 
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Old Feb 3, 2015 | 02:52 PM
  #22  
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Man, glad you got it. Talk about being on a totally wrong page. I thought that was where you started.


Sorry I wasted your time on this one.


Perhaps the reason it is not hooked up is technically it is a reverse or auxiliary pin and may be used for something other than reverse lights.


Steve
 
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